Just thought I'd throw in another quick update. I did some cutting and grinding on that front Dana 60 to fit some of those weld-on radius arm wedges. Looks like that's gonna be the best way to go to stay within the current budget. Will go with stock radius arms to get this thing going soon and will extend & bend the arms and add a heim joint on down the road. I've got a spare set of arms just for that. Anyway, here's where the driver's side wedges fit in there. It's a tight fit, but I was able to get by with only cutting off about an inch of the diff:
The ol' girl's back to sitting on 4 tires again!
If you look back at this pic again:
You can see that I'm definitely going to have to move the track bar bracket. Unfortunately, it's right in the way of my high steer arm, and I'm not willing to give up high steer. And since I'm going with full hydro, geometry on the track bar isn't as limited as it would be if I were running a regular steering box.
Looks like I'm going to pretty much have to stick with the current ride height though instead of going lower, unless I modify the frame a bit as everything's pretty tight as it sits. I need to have some uptravel for when I want to haul ass. I'll get it on a level concrete surface before I tack on the wedges and will also measure frame height to see if I want to try to get lower or not. Currently on the gravel it looks to be measuring around 19" at the bottom of the frame with 33" tires. With 42's that'll end up probably closer to 23.5" under the frame. Not horrible I guess.
I dunno if these are stock springs or if they've got a bit of lift, but they seem about right for what I want to do. Anybody got any idea how I can tell how much lift these springs give? I'd like to go with deavers or something else really flexy, but would like to get some idea how much adjusting I need to make to get back to this same ride height. May just need to experiment a bit.