Is there really an advantage to dual front shocks - FSB Forums
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Is there really an advantage to dual front shocks

Can anyone explain the real differences (advantages and disadvantages) to running dual front shocks opposed to single front shocks on a FSB?

The front/front shocks on my 92 FSB just seem to get in the way. They bump the springs, and I can't do a TRE flip with the superrunner steering because the lower front/front shock mounts are in the way with the wheel turned all the way when articulated.

I really want to eliminate the front/front shocks and lower bracket but would like to know what purpose they serve before doing so. I currently run all doetsch shocks from broncograveyard with a 5.5" superflex lift.
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 03:30 PM
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i only use one front shock and i don't notice any difference.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 03:43 PM
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dual shocks only seem to be more advantageous for towing.... other than that... i only put them on because my lift system came with them

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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 03:44 PM
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maybe articulation,you get more with 1 shock than you do with 2 shocks? seems logical
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 03:57 PM
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 04:02 PM
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On my old f150 the front shocks would actually reduce articulation because as the beams drooped they would get pressed against the coil spring and prevent any more travel
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by basssque View Post
Can anyone explain the real differences (advantages and disadvantages) to running dual front shocks opposed to single front shocks on a FSB?

The front/front shocks on my 92 FSB just seem to get in the way. They bump the springs, and I can't do a TRE flip with the superrunner steering because the lower front/front shock mounts are in the way with the wheel turned all the way when articulated.

I really want to eliminate the front/front shocks and lower bracket but would like to know what purpose they serve before doing so. I currently run all doetsch shocks from broncograveyard with a 5.5" superflex lift.
You can remove them. If you then feel the single shock is not controlling your coil enough you can always look for an upgraded shock like a bilstein or a rancho 9k that you can adjust the valving on.

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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 07:22 PM
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The purpose of a shock is to slow the spring's rebound (pushing DOWN, raising the vehicle). 2 shocks per wheel will cause the vehicle to ride slighly lower while crossing stretches of large bumps than it would with single or no shocks. The effect is that the tire stays in contact with the ground slightly more, giving you more steering & braking control.

Stock quad front shocks have no impact on towing capacity or wheel travel/articulation. Once you mess with the suspension, who knows...
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 07:41 PM
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I have quad Rancho rs5000s right now. I'm switching to single Bilstein 5165s in the front. and 5150s in the rear. I just got them and will be installing them here real soOn. I will do another tech article and let u guys know how it is comPared to the quad front setup.
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
The purpose of a shock is to slow the spring's rebound (pushing DOWN, raising the vehicle). 2 shocks per wheel will cause the vehicle to ride slighly lower while crossing stretches of large bumps than it would with single or no shocks. The effect is that the tire stays in contact with the ground slightly more, giving you more steering & braking control.
that is just wrong. shocks control compression and rebound. without shocks, the wheels will just violently shoot up into the wheel wells every time you hit a bump then violently rebound.

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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 02:33 AM
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If you ever drove on a washboard gravel road for many miles you would see the difference in how long before your hands go numb. The dual shocks seem to do better with smoothing out the ride over a distance, and i believe it's got to do with how hot the shocks get when there's two working on each side opposed to one.

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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 78bronco460 View Post
If you ever drove on a washboard gravel road for many miles you would see the difference in how long before your hands go numb. The dual shocks seem to do better with smoothing out the ride over a distance, and i believe it's got to do with how hot the shocks get when there's two working on each side opposed to one.
Your exactly right as the oil in them heats it thins allowing shock travel at a slightly quicker rate. Two will split the load. Changing the set up on the valving of your shocks can help that as well if it is an option.

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Originally Posted by boostedpgt
that is just wrong. shocks control compression and rebound. without shocks, the wheels will just violently shoot up into the wheel wells every time you hit a bump then violently rebound.
I think what Steve has failed to mention he is referring to gas shocks. When you cut the banding off of them they force them self fully extended. Most of us in the 4X4 world toss those in the trash because lets face it they suck. Most of us go to something like a Procomp, Rancho, Super Lift, or what ever rebadged white shock you get with your name brand sticker. (I run them because I destroy shocks for some weird reason and performance is not bad.)


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Originally Posted by Procomp
ES3000 Series Shocks
Expanded twin tube hydraulic performance shock
Cellular gas insert reduces aeration and foaming
10 stage velocity sensitive valving
Internal bump stop eliminates damage caused by overextension I know this one to be true thanks for the free bump stops
1 3/8” nylon banded piston rod
5/8” chrome hardened piston rod
Optional shock boots sold separately
Now back in my drag racing days shocks were a huge deal. We would set up the car with 90/10 shocks. We would make the car squat quick in the back and rise slow and the front we would let the front end pop up and fall slowly. This gave great weight transfer and traction off the line.

Set up for anything is key know your car and know what you want to do with it. I say if its a road queen then leave all 4. If your like me and remove your sway bars to go off road consider leaving 4 on it. It will help a little with the body roll while on the street.

Last edited by 79F150; 02-04-2012 at 05:34 AM.
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79F150 View Post
Set up for anything is key know your car and know what you want to do with it. I say if its a road queen then leave all 4. If your like me and remove your sway bars to go off road consider leaving 4 on it. It will help a little with the body roll while on the street.
No sway bars on mine and I have the quad shock set up still.. I dont even notice the body roll driving the bko. Shit, the on ramp on the way to school tightly circles from the overpass to going under where you just were.. mph sign says 20-25? I'm taking it at 30-35.. stiff RC suspension helps to keep me grounded...

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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 08:40 PM
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No sway bars on mine and I have the quad shock set up still.. I dont even notice the body roll driving the bko. Shit, the on ramp on the way to school tightly circles from the overpass to going under where you just were.. mph sign says 20-25? I'm taking it at 30-35.. stiff RC suspension helps to keep me grounded...
same here qwad shocks and no sway bars and i haven't noticed extreme body roll so, and the only reason it would limit articulation would be if u have a short front shock just depends on the stroke of the shocks u have
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 09:14 PM
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same here qwad shocks and no sway bars and i haven't noticed extreme body roll so, and the only reason it would limit articulation would be if u have a short front shock just depends on the stroke of the shocks u have
The travel of the shock needs to accomodate the coils possible travel, with any limit straps or bump stops included in the equation. Most of the ttb lifted stiff coils don't have a bunch of travel here, they aren't very long and the coil rods are thicker.

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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 09:41 PM
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Ford seemed to think they were needed for the towing prep and snow plow prep packages.

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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 10:19 PM
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Eh, I like how its set up... for now..

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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 10:42 PM
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Ford seemed to think they were needed for the towing prep and snow plow prep packages.

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Correct. But that's not to say that a good quality single and stiff shock can't handle this too. With towing a heavy load, when braking (assuming a trailer doesn't have brakes too), the trailer can push the bronco and cause it to nose down in front and get light in the rear, if the front suspension is soft. Added weight of a plow up front can sag the front, but also cause bouncing if the coils are old or shocks worn. dual shocks in good condition help control any front bouncing from weight as well.

Again though, going back to the question, can I remove the dual shocks, and the answer with ttb is certainly yes, given a good condition stiff ttb coil without that much travel, and not towing heavy loads or plowing. A single quality shock will work just fine.

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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 12:09 AM
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Is there really an advantage to dual front shocks

I don't really know, I have triples on mine.
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 12:33 AM
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I don't really know, I have triples on mine.
Post a pic of triples? In the front?

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