Mango's 95 progress thread. - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hizootiemizark View Post
Looks great. Like the tires and wheels.
Thanks! The wheels are pro-comp 51's 15x10" with 3.75" backspacing. They're lug-centric so at some point I'll be ordering adapter rings for the wheels.

It's a fun little ride now. I thought about fender flares for it... but what's a fun-truck without a little mud on the side?

Updated the first post with a to-do list and such.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 05-27-2015, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Well, I got to test out the Bronco this past weekend at a local National forest with wheeling trails. Took the Fiance camping overnight and took a trail ride both days. Had a blast... but scared the hell out of the girl! I also bent the hell out of my bumpers... and my front end is out of alignment now... and my driver-front shock bushing is gone.

Front bumper rubs like hell when turning sharp. The trip home was interesting to say the least. Tread is deep enough to not risk slicing the tires open.


Receiver kissed the dirt after I damaged my front bumper. The source of the issue is the frame.


Frame is bent at the hitch mount.


The bronco did perform well. After I get the front bumper straightened out a bit, I don't know how I will tweak the rear. I suppose a long piece of 2" square tube will be needed. I have a friend at work that has a few tubular front bumpers lying around, so I may grab one and fab some mounts for it plus a winch.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Installed a saginaw pump from an econoline van yesterday! My steering feels great and there's no more pump whine or clunky loose steering anymore. It drives nice and true (Besides the tires being out of alignment)

So, one thing I'd like to mention is I did NOT have to drill out my AC compressor lugs to fit any different bolts. The bolts in the econoline's compressor were the same size as the bronco's. Easy day for me! (Reference)

I did a modification to increase the flow of PS fluid at idle to help steer my tires around in parking lots. You need to remove the flow control orifice and the flow piston's spring from the sag pump. The spring will be around 1-3/4" long.

You need to stretch it to 2 to 2-1/4"

Then drill this hole in the orifice

to 5/32" of an inch. Mine was at just a gnat's ass over 9/64", but 5/32" would not fit in the hole, so I gave it a run through anyways to be sure the mod was complete.

I did have to nudge an A/C line next to the filler neck of the sag pump to give it some room, as well as give the HP PS line a pump towards the center of the vehicle to keep it from rubbing on the ABS module mount.

Tools:

5/8 socket (Pump mounting bracket bolts)
5/8 line wrench (Fittings on PS gearbox)
5/8 crow's foot w/ U-joint attached (Helps give leverage to unscrew PS line fittings)
1" wrench (Flow control orifice fitting)
18mm wrench (PS line fitting on pump [saginaw and ford])
10mm socket (AC compressor bolts)
serp belt for a 90's econoline van.

If you change the power steering gear you'll need:

1/2 socket (Intermediate shaft to PS gear coupling)
13/16" socket (Drag link castle nut)
5/8" socket from earlier (PS gear mounting bolts)
1-3/16" wrench (Pitman arm nut)
Breaker bar
3 NEW 7/16"-14 x 5-1/4" hex head Grade 8 Bolts.
Pitman arm puller
Sledge hammer
Patience

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Installed some C-channel a few weeks ago in preperation to make a new front bumper/brush guard for the front. I just need to engineer how it will be functional yet detachable. The C-channel is welded in place. I bolt some angle iron to it at some point to have that extra safety net in case something happens.



I had a little hiccup on the way home this afternoon. Check engine light came on while driving and the truck acted like it was starving for fuel. Pulled into a gas station and the engine would rev to 1400 rpm, CEL would go out, it would return to 800-900 RPM, then tank and stutter with the CEL. It kept repeating this for a while and seemed to get worse when I started checking the spark plug connections on the cap. I checked the trans fluid as well.

New PS pump had no leaks, fluid level was OK, no seizing water pump (but my fan clutch is not engaging), oil 1qt low, no loose spark plug or coil wires, no burned contacts under dizzy cap, no obvious vacuum leaks. It all stopped before I started beating on the EGR valve and fuel tank. Pulling codes tomorrow to start prepping to work on it after my honeymoon next week.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 12:59 AM
Registered User
 
blicharski1989's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 122
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT
iTrader: (1)
Looks good, what seat covers do you have ?
blicharski1989 is offline  
post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
None. It has the period-correct driver's seat in it now. The one pictured was the old seat from the previous generation.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
I haven't done much to this truck besides pop-riveting the rear tailgate skin and fantasizing about how I want my front bumper to look. I've since gotten married and my other truck has been getting most of the love (Headers and full exhaust, hardwiring my dash cam, overhead console, etc). This spring I should be getting some stuff done, but the wife and I are also getting set on buying a house... so not a whole lot of room for projects whenever I have to pack up the garage.

I'll be doing the Timing set and water pump next... since I'm sure the chain is stretched and the water pump is leaking about .5gal/week.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Timing chain and water pump got replaced about a month ago... but here are some pictures including 5.0 water pump bolt sizes.


The chain definitely had some slack in it. Imagine you just installed a new chain and how much slack that has on one side after taking up the slack on the opposite end... mine had a little more than that... on both sides of the chain. A lot of deflection. The new chain is a CLOYES 91138 and I used a GATES 43057 water pump.

You have to remove the serp belt tensioner and the A/C / PS bracket to pull the water pump and timing cover.



Word to those who need to replace your set, you MUST loosen and drop the front of the oil pan to pull the timing cover. It will also be a pain to remove from the centering pins. Clean up the pins and use some anti-seize when you put it back together. You also have to trim the front of the oil pan gasket. I used a hacksaw blade for one side, but found that tin snips will work and cut the gasket flush as well. Dorman makes a water pump bolt kit, albeit 3 of the 4 bolts are usable in this application, and I had to use one bolt to replace the bolt that locates the power steering pump/AC bracket. It was bent and took my air impact all it had at 140psi just to loosen it.

I've already picked up 2mpg with the new chain, which is nice. Before the chain with my 3.55s and 33s to get up several hills at 60mph I would have to floor it to make the trans downshift AND all but floor it to maintain speed. Now, the trans will downshift on its own and I don't even have to move the pedal. Now I can actually use my cruise control without the truck going in and out of 4th gear. Its a really nice improvement. Timing moved to 5* advance from 12* advance at idle after the chain swap.

I just ordered a set of MOOG cc824 front springs, with a set of Moog k80108 ball joint cams, as well as some Dorman rear leaf shackles for an F250 for a shackle flip and new shocks. I'm hoping this will give me a stiffer ride as well as bring the front up a couple of inches over stock. Plus the rear will be 3-4" higher. Loaded down with camping gear or firewood on the trail and I should be a couple inches higher off of the ground but sit level. Oh, and new rancho shocks in the rear to keep it cheap and decent. This is not my "take my honey out to dinner" truck anyways. I will measure before and after ride-height so there's some data.

I also got my Transfer case indexing ring in the mail from DIY 4x4. That MAY go on next weekend with the T-case that I bought from CWbronco. I should have some pictures from that.
TJSmoot likes this.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
I swapped my front springs yesterday. It was not a bad job, but I wish I had taller jack stands for all of this work I do on the bronco.

The ride height of the truck was (with 33s) FD: 34-1/2" FP: 34-1/4" DR: 35-7/8" PR: 35-3/4"
The ride height of the truck is now (w/33s) FD: 37-1/2" FP: 37-3/8" DR: 40-1/8" PR: 40"

I did not take a lot of pictures of the front spring swap, but I have a procedure written up:

FRONT SUSPENSION

What you'll need:
Jack (depending on how high your truck is off the ground will depend on how high of a jack you need, but you'll need to be sure it can lift the vehicle high enough to put it on jack stands and then lower enough so that you can not only remove the old springs, but also have enough room to slip the new ones in. I have a craftsman 6ton that I use)
Jack stands (These need to be able to reach the frame behind the radius arm with the vehicle lifted. The tall 3ton stands from advance auto work fine for this)
18mm wrench and socket (Lower shock mount and sway bar to T-beam mounts)
1-1/8" socket (lower coil spring retainer)
LONG extensions (You need about 16" worth of extensions here)
1/2" socket (Upper coil spring retainer)
5/8" deepwell ( sway bar to frame mount)
Whatever you need to remove your lug nuts with as well.


(first and foremost, use PB blaster or Kroil on everything before disassembling)
1-First, you need to jack up the corner of the truck under the radius arm mount on the T-beam and insert your jackstands behind the radius arm mount on the frame. My jack stands were at position 5 when I did this and I had just enough room (with 33s) to do the rest.
2- Remove the wheel, and remove the lower mounting bolt from the shock. Also disconnect your sway bar fully from the side you're working on (I removed mine completely).
3- Lower your jack until the frame is on the jack stand... then lower it some more until the spring keeps the T-beam suspended. Jack up slightly with your jack to put a little pressure on the spring.
4- Remove the upper spring retainer tab. If the parts fall, DO NOT RETREIVE THEM, just let them be until the spring is unseated.
5-Lower the jack back down until the top of the spring pops out. Now you can get your fallen parts or anything you need.
6- Insert your socket and extensions into the top of the spring and assemble so you can use a ratchet (or impact) from the top. Once the nut is out the spring is now free to be removed).
7- Installation is reverse of removal at this point. If the new spring is too tall to be installed at the height you have the truck at, just install your old spring, jack it up until your can set your stand higher, and then try again. When you go to install your spring jack up on the spring until there is some pressure on it, then your upper retainer should be easily to install. If there is not enough pressure on it the top coil of the spring will not be flat enough against the bucket to install the retainer. You will likely have to push on the spring to make it seat into the bucket as you jack it up. Be very cautious as to where your fingers are here. I torqued my lower coil retainer nut to 100lb-ft as per the manual.

I also did not install my camber cams. I figured I'll have an alignment shop tell me if I need them, and they can install them while I'm there if need be. The camber looks good at the moment, so I'm not too worried.

This is the measurement for the front shocks. This is full extension of the front suspension minus a 1/4" or so from when it binds. My fronts don't even extend this far, which bothers me.

Front spring comparison


REAR SUSPENSION

What you'll need:

Jack and jack stands from before. Right now my bronco is sitting on the hitch frame on stands which is barely high enough to do this. I tried setting the frame on the stands to get more height but the bronco wanted to teeter on the stands if I put any pressure on the bumper. I settled for safety on this one.
Air chisel or SMALL die grinder with a grinding wheel
Angle or small die grinder with cutoff wheel
18mm socket and wrench again(shocks)
21mm socket and wrench (shackle bolts, bumper mounts)
PBblaster for all of the rusty bits
3/4" Socket and wrench for Hanger-to-frame hardware
3/8" box end wrench (Bleeder screws)
7/16" flare wrench (small brake line fittings)
5/8" Fare wrench (old brake hose)
3/4" flare wrench (new brake hose from rough country)
11/16" wrench for axle breather fitting.

I would recommend new hardware in the shackles. They are M14x130mm 9.8 . I'd HIGHLY recommend replacing them with the same size but probably not 12.9. 12.9 will snap under load (good luck trying to), 8.8 and 9.8 are more likely to bend and get you home. If you go SAE then 9/16x5" grade 8 will work just as well.

1- Go ahead and pull your shocks out. (18mm stuff needed)
2- Lift the rear via the pumpkin of the axle. Again, you'll need a beefy jack that can raise the truck but lower the axle out of the way to work and such.
3- Set the frame on your stands.
4- Lower your axle until it is suspended, and then put slight upwards pressure on it.
5- Unbolt your rear shackles from the mounts. (13/16 works)
6- raise the axle so your shackles are up and out of your way to work.
7- using your cutoff wheel cut Xs into the rivet heads of the hanger hardware. You could also cut multiple slits or whatever else will make it easier to chisel. If you have a small enough cutoff wheel you could probably buzz the heads off now, as long as you're dressed for the fireworks show.
8-Chisel of the rivet heads. You can also use your punch attachment to punch them back into the frame when you're done.
9-You will need to grab your cutoff wheel again and clip off the tips of the bumper mounts on each side to make room for your shackle hangers.

9.5- Once this is done, and you are using JBG brackets (unless they change them) you will need to drill the mounting holes to either 14mm to use your old hardware, or 9/16" if you put new bolts in (9/16" is close in SAE and will fit in your leaf spring bushings). Do this before you mount the hangers and you will save yourself a lot of work.
10- You can either drop the fuel tank here to make this easier (i didn't) or use a plethora of magnets, U-joints, and duct tape to feed the mounting hardware into the frame rails from the inside. If my fuel pump was weak I would have dropped the tank during all of this.
11- Now that your hangers are on, bolt up your leaves to the FWD-most hole and viola! Your done! Well... with that.
12- Hopefully you bought new shocks... should be self-explanatory to install those.
13- You need an extended brake line now that you've lifted the rear 4". I've hear the JBG line doesn't fit well... I used a line from Rough country and it fit right in. I'm not going to write up how to install a brake hose... but I've included wrench sizes.
14- NOW you're done. Enjoy your new ride height!
TJSmoot likes this.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
I ended up ordering 4.5" shackle hangers from JBG as I found I would not gain any lift from what I ordered for an F250. Whatever, at least rock auto does returns, right?

I started on indexing the t-case yesterday. unfortunately the cooling fins interfere with the rear seat support brace under the cab. This prevents you from pivoting the t-case up enough to align your indexing ring studs to the transmission tailshaft bolt holes when you install it. I referenced this thread for the install. You should be able to tell in the pictures that not only are there only 2 other places to install the studs, but the closest threaded hole to the mounting bolt is further away, which will raise the t-case higher and thus cause the problem I am having. I will try pulling the transmission mount out to see if this will give me enough room... if not then I'm taking a cutoff wheel to part of the brace.

This is what I'm getting rid of. The big cancerous bulge under the bronco that hits everything and gets me snagged up. That's about 3" of ground clearance because of the t-case skid plate.


Indexing the T-case is pretty simple, you'll need:
An extra person (unless you feel like you need a hernia)
Jack and jack stands
12mm 12pt wrench or socket. (rear driveshaft flange bolts)
13mm wrench and or socket (T-case mounting bolts, skid plate nuts, upper trans mount bolts)
1/2" wrench (front driveshaft U-bolt nuts)
1/4" allen key (counter sunk bolts)
3/16" allen key (studs)
10mm wrench (skid plate bolt)
9/16 wrench/socket (nuts for adapter studs)
18mm Socket/wrench (Lower trans mount bolts)
Cutoff wheel (DO NOT USE ON T-CASE IF YOU FEEL THE NEED TO CUT A COOLING FIN OFF OR ANYTHING, it is made of magnesium and if it catches fire you will not be able to put the fire out. Use a sawsall.)


(DRAIN YOUR T-CASE BEFORE YOU DO THIS!)

1-Drop your skid plate first. This will help give you some room to work... and you won't need it anymore anyways. Take the wire loom that is on the transmission crossmember, bundle it, and zip-tie it out of the way where the upper frame rail and crossmember bolt together.
2- Unbolt your drive shaft and let them hang. DON'T LET THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT U-JOINT CAPS FALL OFF. Use some tape to keep them together.
3- Disconnect the shift motor wiring harness and start removing the bolts form the t-case into the transmission.
4- Once the bolts are out, you should be able to just wiggle the t-case off. (One Of my bolts was actually about 3/4" out of the hole when I started... so make sure you use loctite)
5- Once you've got it on the ground and out from under the frame, you need to buzz off the pin that is on the back of the trans with the cutoff wheel. You don't need a perfect cut here, just as long as the surface is decently flat and the pin is gone.
5.5- I had to run a tap into each of the mounting holes for the counter sunk bolts so they would thread all of the way in. Why? I have no idea, but I'll bet it had to do with the gobs of silicone I pulled out and there was probably just some left. The case already has 1-3/4" long threads in it, but just a heads up you may need a 3/8" bottoming tap and a drill with a clutch (or you can do it by hand if you're like that).
6- You'll need to move your fuel line support bracket UP to help clear the front driveshaft. Rockwell had a hole a smidgen higher than his prexisting mounting hole... the one I used was about 2" higher. The holes are spaced 30mm apart from each other so wherever you put it, that's the hole spacing. A little bending here and there of the support will help it to fit that much higher. It will also be that much higher from weeds and brush when you go wheeling.
7- Install your ring with a little silicone between it and the t-case. Use blue loctite here and just tighten the bolts by hand as much as you can with your allen key.
8- As per DIY4x4's youtube video Just bottom out the studs in the holes that you want with just a little bump of torque and blue loctite.
9- Hammer the bajebus out of the belly pan to help the T-case bolt well clear the body. You'll need to raise the floor about 1"-1.5". Good luck.
10- If you're using the DIY4x4 ring... you will have to take the "passenger-rear" Driver's seat mounting bolt and nut in the sheet metal out. (I will make some sort of bracket later so this corner is bolted in another day.) You should make some sort of adapter plate to move your mounting bolt now while you have the floor exposed.
11- I buzzed out the sharpie'd section of the rear support bracket to aid in installing the transfer case. You can do whatever you want, but I found this to be the easiest way. I tried taking the transmission mount out to avoid this, but I could not gain enough clearance to jack the trans high enough later on to install the mount (Seat mounting area would need to be raised).
12- Put some silicone on the ring so it and the trans are sealed up. Then install your case. Everything else should bolt right on in now.


Your T-case will now sit like this:



Here's some more pics!
This is how close the fuel line mount is now to the body:

I like to use a drill with the clutch set as low as it will turn the tap until it stops. Then I turn it up notch by notch until it starts to thread the tap. If it bottoms out or gets clogged I run it out and back in once more. If it stops I stop, if it advances then I repeat it. You could also get fancy and mark your tap with a sharpie if you measure the depth... but there's no fun in that.

Mounted ring:

This is the areas that the T-case is and will interfere. The belly pan of the bronco has been hammered a little, but it needs to be about an inch higher. There is a trim screw here... or there was.

If you want to modify your T-case oil pump tab or ensure it is not going to bust through the casting, this is what you're looking for. I bent mine further than pictured into the casting notch towards the "front" of the bronco. I'm satisfied with it:

This is the pin you need to clip off:

Make it look like this essentially:

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Got around to installing the new shackle hangers last night. All I have to say is, they are a HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS to install with the fuel tank in. They are also not "Bolt-in" in a 91-96 BKO as they interfere with the rear bumper mounts.

Here's the mounts from JBG. Beefy construction.


Oh man, that sounds super simple.


WRONG.





To top it off, after I got the two most foward bolts in and tight on each mount (Lots of magnets, U-joints, and trickery) I discovered that the shackle bolt holes in both hangers are too small... even for the factory 14mm hardware.



Theses are 9/16"x5" bolts that I'll be installing in lieu of the worn factory stuff. They mic out to 14.07mm.

So, I'll have to make another trip to Fastenal today to get a 9/16" drill bit (hopefully they're 4" long) just so I can use the things.

Since I couldn't do anything else... I painted the frame on the bronco. Looks nicer but mostly its just to stop some of the rust all over it. Touched up the frame in places on the pickup too. No more blue overspray on the leafs or in the wheel wells from the PO.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
After lots of hammering, cutting, and lifting the transfer case and trans up and down it is finally mated to the tail shaft. Just a few things left on the list.

Rear brake line and bleed.
Rear shocks.
Mod rear bumper brackets.
Driveshafts.
Fill case with fluid and route vent hose.
Slap the wheels back on and drive it!

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Its done! Ready to go wheeling this weekend with my dad at Uwharrie. Hopefully we'll have a blast and not get stuck.

Here's the finished product:




Oddly, the front tires were not so negatively cambered when I installed the coils. Now that the leaf hangers are in it is obvious that I will need an alignment and likely cams installed. I'll install the cams another day.

I noticed that there are bolt holes in the frame in-line with the transmission pan. I will try to make a skid plate for it Friday so I can play on rocky trails. Should be easy.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 12:02 AM
Registered User
 
Hylander's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Northern Ca.
Posts: 442
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT, 5.8, 4" RC Lift, Procomp 1069 16x8" Wheels, Toyo MT 285/75R16 Tires
iTrader: (0)
Garage
So, what springs did you use for the front ?

Failure is not an Option.
Hylander is offline  
post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hylander View Post
So, what springs did you use for the front ?
Moog CC824 springs. Got them on Amazon prime at $60-sum a pair.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 02:07 AM
Registered User
 
Hylander's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Northern Ca.
Posts: 442
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT, 5.8, 4" RC Lift, Procomp 1069 16x8" Wheels, Toyo MT 285/75R16 Tires
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mangonesailor View Post
Moog CC824 springs. Got them on Amazon prime at $60-sum a pair.
Thanks,

So Drop brackets ?

Failure is not an Option.
Hylander is offline  
post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hylander View Post
Thanks,

So Drop brackets ?
What about them?

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 12:55 PM
Registered User
 
Hylander's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Northern Ca.
Posts: 442
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT, 5.8, 4" RC Lift, Procomp 1069 16x8" Wheels, Toyo MT 285/75R16 Tires
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mangonesailor View Post
What about them?
Wondering if you used any or just the springs.
Seems like a lot of lift without drop brackets.

Failure is not an Option.
Hylander is offline  
post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Mods, please delete

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Mangonesailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: "The Triad", NC
Posts: 309
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hylander View Post
Wondering if you used any or just the springs.
Seems like a lot of lift without drop brackets.
I did not use them. From what I've read you can lift the front 3-4" with springs and then use cut and turned beams to get their camber back. Or, you add springs and then use new cams from Moog.

-Dustin
'97, 2500 ECSB, 454, 4X4, 0411, full exhaust, 33's. My "I'll-go-wherever-I-want" tool.("Biggin' ")
'95 Bronco XLT 5.0, 3" lift, 33's, with 185k. Junk-hauling deer-retriever.("Dufus") Build thread.
Mangonesailor is offline  
Reply

  Ford Bronco Forum > Other Forums > General Discussion/ Bronco and Wheeling related.

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Bronco Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. DO NOT USE Gmail.com accounts. If you only have a Gmail.com email please contact the administrator here

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome