good job! I need to go thru both of my axles and rebuild them completely. maybe in a couple of years i will get around to that.
Thanks! It wasn't too bad of a job really... mostly it was that damn cross pin bolt! Simple job though.
...lots of pics..is it later yet?
This is everything you should be buying:
Clutch kit (Whatever flavor you want, I wanted the extra bite of the carbon fiber) ($103, Summit racing)
Cross pin and bolt (Your axle shafts may have worn into it causing you to have excessive end play) ($20?)
Spider gears ($125)
Axle bearings and seals ($20 or so)
About 4 bottles of friction modifier
C-clips (these copper ones were too thick to be readily used, so I used my old ones)
You can see how much the driver's pack was worn here.
New pack's orientation (Shim faces diff case!)
Ground down C-clip for proper axle clearance.
"Instructions" included with new clutch pack kit on how to remove the S-spring.
Kit used to rebuild Trac-lok From summit (A cool $103)
Everything else was ordered from Bronco Graveyard: Axle kit ([Yukon brand] which included timken bearings and seals), New copper C-clips (Too thick, not used), new cross pin, and new Trac-lok gears (Much tougher-looking than factory). To any of those wondering, I did soak the clutches in friction modifier. I also assembled everything with an oil film so that there would be no dry surfaces on S/U.
A few tips for those that may do all of this (Trans in N):
When removing the S-spring you can do it quickly with two people.
-After pulling your C-clips, remove the driver's side axle.
-Pull the passenger's side axle into the side gear so it is out of the way.
-Drive the S-spring into the diff case so that about half of it is sticking out of the back.
-Rotate the carrier in the direction of reverse.
-Pull on the S-spring so that the ring-gear side is past the ring gear. You will notice that the opposite side of the spring will catch it's side gear.
-Have your assistant push in the passenger's side axle and it should slide out with minimal effort.
Installing the S-spring (Trans in P):
-Imagine this "S" is the shape of the spring when viewing it from the side. You want the rounded edge of the spring to face along the ring gear and the side gear on that side.
-Using a screwdriver, or like tool (I used my fingers), compress the opposite side's "tang" while pushing slightly inward on the spring.
-When the tang is compressed it will make it easier to slip in the S-spring part of the way.
-Once the S-spring's own tension is holding it in place, drive it inwards fully and until you can insert the passenger's side axle.
Installing Pinion Gears (Trans in P):
-Now that you have your S-spring in and he is decently centered, you will want to install your pinion gears. Rotate the S-spring in the carrier by turning your axle until the "sides" of the "S" face the openings in the case. (It makes it easier to turn the axle if you use the wooden handle of a hammer for leverage and you lower your risk of messing up your wheel studs)
-Shift the Trans to N
-Rotate the entire carrier so that the open faces of the carrier face up and down and the closed face in which the cross pin retaining bolt is inserted is facing you.
-Shift trans to P
-place one pinion gear in mesh to the side gears in the top open face of the carrier (If the gear will not mesh, slowly turn the axle until the gear meshes) Note it's relative position to the closed ends of the carrier.
-based on the position of the upper pinion gear, place the lower pinion gear in mesh to the side gears so that it is 180* away from the upper gear.
-Rotate your axle in the forward direction while your assistant holds the lower gear in mesh with the side gears until the "lower" gear is aligned with the cross pin shaft holes. (The upper gear should take care of itself... because of gravity).
It should like like this now:
-Verify Proper positioning of the pinion gears by inserting the cross pin shaft into the diff case. Some jarring of the axle may be required to allow the cross pin to fit.
-If the cross pin fits, insert the retaining bolt but do NOT tighten.
-Shift trans to N
-Rotate the axle in the reverse direction so the open face of the diff case faces you AND you can remove the cross pin from the case.
-Install your axles and verify proper end-play.
Hopefully hat above stuff makes someone's life A LOT easier. I have some other pictures that I had taken on my "real" camera but I left that SD card back at home. I will not be able to retrieve that stuff until a couple of weeks from now (During Muzzleloader season in NC!
Whenever the code pops up again (If it does) I will follow that procedure. As of a couple of weekends ago I cleared all codes and I am waiting for the truck to give me another CEL, if it ever does.
During such time the trans is doing some funky stuff... really way too much to list, and I will wait until I get a code. I have still yet to clean the VSS sensor to at least write that off of possible issues. However, when I do clean him I will also take some Ohm readings and note them for the future.
The TPS was changed by the PO and I do not know if he ever reset the computer to clear any codes afterwards. Again, if I get another 122 CEL I will start checking all of that. At least I have your post in my thread for a reference.