BikerPepe's last Bronco... Black '95 XLT (pics heavy) - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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BikerPepe's last Bronco... Black '95 XLT (pics heavy)

OK... so I thought I should break out from my last thread, where I was getting help from many of my great fellow members as I searched for a couple months for my last Bronco. It's not that I wouldn't love to buy another... it's just that I don't see that I'll ever be able to afford another, so I wanted the perfect platform for me to mess with from here on out. Perfect is, of course... in the eye of the beholder and for me, this one was about as close as I could find in my price range.

I actually went to my Mother to make this happen. A few years ago, she told me when she kicked off... I'd be getting $30k for my inheritance, along with having to make sure the rest went to everyone else according to her wishes and that I dole my sisters share out slowly enough that she doesn't kill herself (damn hard-core drug addict). Eventually she started a conversation about giving the money to her kids but never being around to see it or enjoy the benefits gained by it. So... when I decided that my white '90 wasn't really my "ideal" Bronco and I had saved up so many parts that I really would rather put on a rig I liked more, I went to her and asked if she'd mind giving me some of that inheritance early, so I could buy my ideal Bronco. She was all for it... so I pulled $5k out early and started my search.

Some of the features I was looking for: '92 - '95, 351 (not 302), dark color (green, blue, black or variations within' and no Eddie Bowers), cloth interior, manual transfer case. Not that big a deal, I thought but it took a few months to find the right combo and all I ever found around here were Bricknose EB's and White Bronco's. I've owned 2 white 4G bronco's already and after the recent OJ media blitz... if I never hear another OJ comment about my Bronco again, it will be too soon and I might just have to smack somebody. My first Bronco was a red w/black, '78 XLT that I loved dearly and had for many years before ever getting online but red wasn't really an option anymore either because = cops.

Anyone interested in more of the search process, here's the thread: checking out some last gen, CL Bronco's from a distance...

I found this one on Craigzilla, a nice craigslist mash-up site that really helped me dig around a larger area than the regular craigslist search expansion was capable of. Special thanks to @dash_cam for that suggestion, as this one never would have popped up on my regular, expanded craigslist search.

She was a California Bronco that had relocated recently to Boise, Id., about 455 miles away from me. I was able to grab my friend (@Zen-Dragon, thanks again brother!) and head down in my White '90 FSB to go check her out and obviously, bring her home. She was listed for $4800 and I paid $4500 cash, plus trip expenses to get her home. It was an adventure but I'll leave those details in the "search for" thread. Today was a good day for the intro thread... as I just got back from paying taxes, license & registration. She's mine, all mine now.


And... without further adieu, here's some pics I took while waiting for the "Hall of Justice" to get off their lunch break. btw: Yes, that is what they call the building that houses the courts in my county and yes, I asked if anyone could help me find the "Super Friends" while I was looking for the right window to deal with paying off a speeding ticket I got last week in the ol' lady's '78.

The walk-around:







Interior shots:









Forgot to add a pic of the jump seat/console, so here's one the PO sent me before I headed down to get her:


I actually really dig this shelf the PO made and plan to keep using it. I was actually surprised I'd never seen anyone else fab one up like this because it's so simple and efficient. It's great for tossing things in the back and pulling them back out quick/easy and for hiding things underneath from prying eyes. You can also see the new, 2 row radiator and 2 new front brake disks that also came with it. PO said it all came with the Bronco when he bought her.



Note the 2, 10" subs and box. I assume the EQ is in the box too but not being a big stereo guy... I haven't even checked it out yet.
The stereo sounds fantastic and isn't something I'd have ever bothered to install myself... but since it's already there, I kinda dig it.




Another neat thing I'd never bother with but is kinda cool to have is the Alarm system. Although... I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I lock myself out of the damn thing, since it auto-locks the doors every time you turn the key on.


A few, non-specific shots of the undercarriage:









And finally... a close-up shot of the wheels and tires. Wheels were cleaned up real nice and purdy. Not my fav design but they'll do much better than stockers or anything else I have for summer. I prefer to run my solid, outlaws for the winter but these will be great for summer. Came with near new BFG AT's in 35/12.5/15 from Discount Tire and I got all the paperwork too... and somewhat fresh Warn Hubs installed.




Needs:
1. I didn't get any shots under the hood yet but I plan to get some and add them later. When I went to pick her up... the AC unit was failing. The bearings were starting to seize and we were seriously concerned that it would cause the serpentine belt to melt and break on the 7 hr. drive home, so we picked up a by-pass pulley from the local NAPA to install for the trip home. We disconnected the pump, wrapped it up in a towel and used heavy duty zip ties to secure it under the master cylinder, against the firewall. I've got a good pump in the '90 and there's a small leak in the system, so I plan to swap the pump out of the '90 and into the '95, then use the delete pulley in the '90 that I'll eventually sell to get some of my money back. I honestly have no interest in using the AC but I think it's good to restore the working system if I can do it easily and with minimal expense... just for the sake of keeping the rig in good condition with OEM functions intact.

2. The check engine light has a bad habit of coming on around 40-80 miles of driving and it drove me huts on the way home. Once I got it home... I haven't seen it since but I haven't driven another 80 miles straight yet. PO thought it was a sensor but never mentioned it until I called him on the road home. I tend to agree that it could be... but it's just a bad thing to have coming and going without any sense. He also told me it won't hold a code, as he's tried to check it and it comes up empty after being shut-off... so either it's a false report from a bad sensor that the unit blows off (PO said) or there's something wrong with the wire that feeds the memory in the ECU (or EEC or whatever it's called).
I tried to check it without turning off the rig when we got to Zen-Dragon's house because he has an ODBII system in his cell phone and the dongles for hooking up his newer F150, but when we tried too... we found the connections didn't match. I'm not sure if it's becouse his F150 is so much newer or if there's something up with the ODBII ports in this '95, being totally unfamiliar with OBDII and only having used an ODBI reader I bought a few yrs back for my '90 FSB. Here's the in-cab port, as pictured above:


3. The 6" lift. Many of you already know and more than a few have helped me put it together but I have a 4" lift that I plan to install on this rig eventually. The 6" is just too damn tall for me... as I'm not only a foot short (ha-ha, gimp humor) but I'm all of 5'6" when I'm stretching, so this is just more lift to get in and out of than my little lady or I care for. I'm also not a fan of the rear leaf blocks and would far prefer to have my shackle flip brackets supporting the rear end. The lift seems fine and the rig handles well... even without the TRE flip inserts I've got but it is pretty stiff, so I'm hoping the coils BigBlue sent me will soften the ride up a bit, along with the new Bilstien shocks I've got. One bummer is... I'll need to order two more shocks for the front now as this rig is setup for front quad shocks and my '90 isn't.

4. I need to verify the gears are actually 4.56 as told by the PO. Zen-Dragon was able to use his GPS to help me figure out that the speedo is running about 10 miles UNDER actual speed. Not only did this throw the reported mileage way off (says 175k, likely over 200k ) but it's a major annoyance. Some members have told me it's all PSOM and the gears don't matter but others have said that's not true. I'm confused as hell and don't know squat about PSOM, yet. Either way... I need to verify that the rear axle is 8.8, as the PO mentioned he had both axles rebuilt from stem to stern, with all Detroit 4.56 gears and LS installed by some shop in Cali, but he didn't produce any paperwork to verify that and it doesn't really "feel" like I thought it should and the speedo deal obviously doesn't help my perception.

5. PO did mention and it appears to be an issue... slow oil leak coming out of the rear main seal that I'll have to deal with eventually.

6. well... I just put this number out there because there's always more to do to your Bronco and I've got a few more things I'd like to do before I'll be totally satisfied. Remove, Rug Dr. and re-install the carpets (next summer), install seat covers, replace the dash because of a nasty crack that's covered by the cloth dash cover, decided if I want to keep the current "jump seat" style center console or pull and sell it and replace the missing seat arms and stock console or do an Expedition console/shifter swap like RicoBronco or... not.

So there you have it friends. Hope you enjoy the pic fest and get used to this rig as she'll be around for a few decades to come. Hell... who knows? I might even take down an FOTM/FOTY win next year. Anything's possible.

Please... discuss.

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post #2 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:02 PM
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First to see! Whooo meeee!

Awesome looking truck Pepe!.

Calibrate that PSOM asap! You'll be amazed how easy it is! It'll drive like a different truck too!
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post #3 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:07 PM
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4.56 gears will not change the speedometer. You will need to reprogram the PSOM for the larger tires for the speedometer to be correct.

Good looking Bronco.
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post #4 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:13 PM
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I'll be damned Pepe, that's a really sharp lookin machine. Congrats, and hell, even I'd vote for you.
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post #5 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
Harley's & Bronco's FTW!
 
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I need to find a solid thread on understanding the PSOM, as I've never had to even consider it before this.
Looks like I also forgot to get a shot of the jump seat in there. I'll update the first post with on from the CL ad.

oh... sorry to burst your bubble there sack... but I shared pics in the "search" thread but wanted to make this one before I got too many good tech info posts in the other, already long and drawn out thread. Still... you first response cred in the intro thread.

edit add: doh! posts coming in as I'm typing. Thanks everyone. I think she's going to work out just fine.

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post #6 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:35 PM
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That doesn't look like an OBD II port. I believe that is a key card slot, for keyless entry. I bet it is OBD I and the port is under the hood. Beauty of a rig, nice Pepe!
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post #7 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:39 PM
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I do not think that's the OBD-II connector, It looks like part of the alarm system to me. Too big to be the connector.
I also say this as I have a 95 4.6l T-Bird that is OBD-II before it was required and its a standard connector. I doubt they would make them weird/different for just the trucks.

Also looks like a nice truck.,
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The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
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post #8 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:52 PM
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I remember now, it is remote start keycard slot. I tried to remove mine and then it woudn't start.
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post #9 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 08:25 PM
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That's a beautiful Bronco brother
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post #10 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 09:51 PM
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If it's OBD-II, the connector is to the right of the center of the dashboard, over the passenger's left foot. It should have a cover, but if not, no big deal. I thought I did see it in one of the photos, so I'll pull it back up and expand it, see if I can confirm it.

_____________________________________________

[Silver70] In 100 years, when astronauts visit the landing site, they'll stumble upon the little FSB rover with a busted driveshaft, twisted up on a moon-rock flexing the SAS, and think, "Man... those things can go anywhere. Screw Jeep."
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post #11 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 09:53 PM
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OK, it actually looks like it's under the ashtray, but it's been six or more years since I scanned an OBD II Bronco:
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_____________________________________________

[Silver70] In 100 years, when astronauts visit the landing site, they'll stumble upon the little FSB rover with a busted driveshaft, twisted up on a moon-rock flexing the SAS, and think, "Man... those things can go anywhere. Screw Jeep."
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post #12 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 10:49 PM
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I think 95s are OBD1 with the plug under the hood near the brake booster. That's where it is on my 95

1995 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer 351W 2.5" RC Front Lift. JBG 3" Rear Springs. 17" M/T Classic III's and 285/70/17 Toyo Open Country A/T II, 4.56 gears trac-loc f/r. Street Toy
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post #13 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 11:01 PM
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Nice score Pepe! Glad you finally found the rig you were looking for! I hope everything works out the way you want. That's one badassed looking Bronco!
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post #14 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 11:42 PM
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Interesting, the FSB arch-nemesis has the answer to your questions about the PSOM.

What's a PSOM & how do I "P" it???

"The simplest solution is usually the best solution" - Occam's Razor

"The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them." - Albert Einstein
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post #15 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
Harley's & Bronco's FTW!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyatt earp View Post
I remember now, it is remote start keycard slot. I tried to remove mine and then it woudn't start.
ok, cool. did you ever get it removed? I got no key card with the truck, just the key fob I showed earlier.
was yours the same? do you happen to remember the brand or model?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy_andy_cv64 View Post
OK, it actually looks like it's under the ashtray, but it's been six or more years since I scanned an OBD II Bronco:
I thought I'd read there was a port in the cab and assumed it was the pictured port. I'll check closer under the dash.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddACimer View Post
I think 95s are OBD1 with the plug under the hood near the brake booster. That's where it is on my 95
and your 95 is also ODBI? My buddy and I did find the port on the firewall, behind the booster and it looked like an ODBI. I didn't get the CE light on after I left his place... so I didn't try to pull out the OBDI reader on it yet. I'll check that out for sure. Would be nice not to have to buy another reader.

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post #16 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
Harley's & Bronco's FTW!
 
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miesk5 gave me the answer in the other thread, when I was trying to close it out.

You're right on Todd, 1995 is OBDI, so there it is.. black and white.

Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
Yo Pepe',
Congratulations on a great looking Bronco!

Some info on the Intermittent CEL;
Wiggle Test Special Note:
The technician can attempt to re-create & detect an Intermittent fault using the Wiggle Test procedures.
Key On Engine Off Wiggle Test Procedure:
Hook up a VOM or Scan Tool.
Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
For VOM, activate, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test to enter Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
*** BEWARE OF FAN, HOT ENGINE, HOSES, BELTS, PULLEYS ***
Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory and indicated as follows:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) aka CEL: Lights
VOM: Needle Sweep
Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) on E4OD
Scan Tool: Continuous Tone

Engine Running Wiggle Test Procedure
Special Note:
The Engine Running Wiggle Test may be activated any time the engine is running.
Hook up a VOM or Scan Tool as shown.
Key off.
Start the engine.
For VOM, activate Self-Test, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test to enter Engine Running Continuous Monitor DTM. DO NOT shut the engine off. For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness or drive the vehicle.
When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory and indicated as follows:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
VOM: Needle Sweep
Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
Scan Tool: Beeps
....

The Red connector (near driver's side hood hinge) is the 4WABS TEST connector.
4WABS Self Test Connector pic in a 95

Pic by by s8c2 (the wagon)

95 has OBD1, so the test connectors are in engine bay.

The self-test plugs are located along the drivers side fender behind the air filter box on 1987-95 EFI trucks.


Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

Intermittents are usually caused by one or more of the following: deteriorated electrical connections, terminal issues, etc. Start by carefully inspecting the suspected circuit for the following conditions:
Poor mating of the connector halves, especially if the locking tabs are broken, which occurs with our elderly Broncos.
Terminals backed out or not fully seated in the connector
Damaged terminals or poor terminal to wire connections
Corrision or water intrusion. Pierced or damaged insulation can allow moisture to enter the wiring causing the conductor to corrode inside the insulation. Look for swollen and stiff sections of wire in the suspect circuits.
Wires that are broken inside the insulation
Pinched, cut or chaffed wiring in the harness
Look for unravelled or missing harness wrapping and loose harnesses where PO pulled harness from its straps, and/or clips.
Wiring that is damaged as a result of being in contact with exhaust components, such as the O2 sensors, CANP solenoid where it's hose is known to melt on exhaust manifold

.


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post #17 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
Harley's & Bronco's FTW!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey350 View Post
Interesting, the FSB arch-nemesis has the answer to your questions about the PSOM.

What's a PSOM & how do I "P" it???
I really appreciate that link and I'm going there now to read it but again, there is no arch-nemesis, there is no unnecessary drama.
dude don't follow the same rules as everyone else... dude don't get to play in the same sandbox. nobody to blame but dude.

edit add: well that was like wading through a giant clusterfukk for a little bit or actual info. Read through most of the thread on FSB and got more confusion out of it than anything. Had to get to "dudes" supermotors page and find another to actually find the 3 paragraphs I actually needed. What a waste of time. reading for over an hr for something that'll take 5 minutes to fix. Yay.


and thanks for having me read through one of his "help" threads again and reminding me what a PIA we've lost.
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post #18 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 12:11 AM
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nice ride! man i tell ya what i prefer cloth over leather any day the the Bronco cloth seats are the comfortable-est on the planet
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my girlfriend has been on me to buy a newer truck . . . . had to break it to her I'm not likely ever going to have anything newer then 1996 . . . . . .
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post #19 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
Harley's & Bronco's FTW!
 
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I agree, especially after riding in some seriously broken down old '90 seat. The 7 hour drive back was a pleasure compared to the same drive down.
The other thing I really like is that I plan to get some seat covers and most would say: "Then what's it matter?" but in my experience, seat covers slip and slide around on vinyl or leather seats but stay put much better over cloth.



So... I'm just going to put this here for easy reference when I get out in the shop to reset that PSOM.
Giving credit where credit is due... this info is snipped as needed from Steve83's Supermotors page on PSOM.

Quote:
Resetting the PSOM is EASY: it uses the "conversion constant" to calculate the vehicle speed from the sensor frequency. You can see yours by holding the Reset button while turning the key forward to Run, then release Reset. The needle will do a full sweep test, and the odometer display will show " E ## # ", meaning English units, the microprocessor revision (mine is 08 ), and the conversion constant lockout count (maximum is 6). Canadian ones might show " o " in the first position meaning "Overseas" (Metric) units. Early revisions (near 03) apparently don't have a lockout count, but according to the '92 service CD & TSB 94-16-16, they allow only 3 changes. Pressing Reset again shows " ####CAL ", which is the conversion constant (without a decimal). The constant for PSOMs in trucks originally equipped with 31x10.50's should be 9.18 . Check the original tire size on your door sticker.

If you want to change the constant, find the single-wire connector (usually marked PSOM) under the glovebox and ground the LightBlue/Yellow wire (early '92 models use a Bk/Or wire) before turning the key on (you still have to hold the Reset, as before). (The cigar lighter ground wire might reach.) Everything is the same as before, except if you press Select while viewing the conversion constant, "CAL" will flash & the constant will decrease by 0.01. Press the Select button to continue decreasing the constant by 0.01 each time. (Revisions 1-3 INcrease with each press.) When the constant reaches 5.00, it goes back to 11.00 . Larger tires or fewer teeth on the tone ring require a lower constant - R&P changes have no effect. When you have the constant you want, press the Reset button to lock it in. THIS WILL DECREASE THE LOCKOUT COUNT BY 1 - WHEN IT REACHES 0, NO FURTHER CHANGES CAN BE MADE. To abort the changes and maintain the lockout count, turn the key off before pressing Reset. When finished, turn the key off and disconnect the LB/Y wire from ground. The "PSOM Programming Enable" circuit (the LB/Y wire under the dash, #24 in the diagram below) is only used when you want to change the constant and use one of the lockouts. You can check the constant without grounding that wire.

The '87-current 8.8" rear end has a 108-tooth tone ring; the 7.5-inch rear end has 102 teeth; the 9.75-, 10.25-, 10.5- and 11.25-inch diameters usually have 120 teeth.

To derive a conversion constant:
ConvConst = RevsperMile x ToneRingTeeth / 8000
Summer Tires: BFG AT KO2 35/12.5/15: RevsperMile = 602
Winter Tires: GY Wrangler Duratrac 33/12.5/15: RevsperMile = 635
I have (after verifying visually) the Ford 8.8 rear diff = 108

ConvConst = 602 x 108 / 8000 = 8.127, so I'll be entering 8.13 and should be dead on with summer tires.
ConvConst = 635 x 108 / 8000 = 8.5725, so I'll be entering 8.57 and should be dead on with winter tires.

My only real problem with PSOM will now be... it won't take long to go through those 3 or 6 resets before I'll have to replace the damn PSOM.

"When life throws you a curve... LEAN INTO IT!"

SuperMotors - Since 2002

Last edited by BikerPepe`; 10-05-2016 at 02:07 AM.
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post #20 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-05-2016, 07:07 AM
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Superlift makes (or made) a calibrator that goes inline to the signal in the dash. It has 2 settings on it. This would fix the problem you mention above and is also the same reason I had it as I was switching from 31s to 35s seasonal for a couple years.
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