"RailRoad Runner" My new project - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 02:04 AM
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Very cool. So do you know if the orange is a special color just for the RR use? Or was it a standard issue?
It doesn't show in the dealer brochure (see below) but is listed as a color for medium heavy duty Ford trucks that year. See this link: Ford code M5466

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post #62 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 02:54 AM
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Trucks for fleet use are ordered through other that the regular dealer network, are they not? So the color is likely only offered for fleets (such as USFS green on their trucks)
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[Silver70] In 100 years, when astronauts visit the landing site, they'll stumble upon the little FSB rover with a busted driveshaft, twisted up on a moon-rock flexing the SAS, and think, "Man... those things can go anywhere. Screw Jeep."
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post #63 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 02:58 AM
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And, according to the page's interior color availability chart, there's no more Porno Red?
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[Silver70] In 100 years, when astronauts visit the landing site, they'll stumble upon the little FSB rover with a busted driveshaft, twisted up on a moon-rock flexing the SAS, and think, "Man... those things can go anywhere. Screw Jeep."
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post #64 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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And, according to the page's interior color availability chart, there's no more Porno Red?
LOL.

If I didn't live so close to Dallas, I would put Broncos helmet on the doors or something!

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post #65 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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I found some hard top side glass. The guy said he would take 1/2 of the cost of a new one. I looked for them on LMC but didn't see them. Anybody know what I should pay the guy for the two side glass's? BTW they are factory tinted.

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post #66 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 12:24 PM
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sliders or straight glass? rubber gaskets included or...?

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post #67 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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sliders or straight glass? rubber gaskets included or...?
I already have the old rubber gaskets and they are very soft and pliable, so I don't need to purchase those. The glass is not sliders.

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post #68 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 06:35 PM
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$50 would be fair/generous, imo. I paid $50 for a good set of sliders at the junk yard. would have been a super score but I let the yard monkey remove them and he trashed the gaskets to get 'em out.

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post #69 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. I'll see if that works for him.
He has all the glass for the whole truck, but it is 10 miles away and I can't seem to get him motivated to fetch it. Figure If I add up all the money for everything and wave it to him, that will do it...

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post #70 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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New problem I've been fighting for a couple of days. I drilled out the old key cylinder, but there is a piece of it still in the column. It is the tip I have circled in red. I can't seem to get it out and I'm out of ideas so am hoping someone can help.



I kept drilling deeper until I could get the old one out. Perhaps I went too deep? IDK, but I'm not positive the switch is in the run position any more. I went in the shop to get a screwdriver and my buddy said " I got it out" Not sure what he did while I wasn't looking. So maybe the lock got turned. At any rate, the triangular shaped tip is still in there and it isn't coming out.

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post #71 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 11:26 PM
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One more time: remove the shroud and the ignition electrical switch. Move the actuator pin carefully until that tip aligns with the slot in the washer, then you can attempt to pick it out. The washer may be held in with an inside snap ring; if it is, remove it and the washer & tip. When you get it, install the washer, snap ring and lock cylinder, put the ignition electrical switch up on the pin, then turn the key back until the switch body drops fully into place and install the switch hold-down screw. You're set. Put the shroud back on.

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[Silver70] In 100 years, when astronauts visit the landing site, they'll stumble upon the little FSB rover with a busted driveshaft, twisted up on a moon-rock flexing the SAS, and think, "Man... those things can go anywhere. Screw Jeep."
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post #72 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Got that little piece out finally. What it was, was that there was pressure on the steering column. You know how sometimes you go to turn the key and it won't turn until you move the steering wheel? I think that's what happened. I turned the wheel and that little tip pulled out. I reinstalled the new cylinder and now have that nightmare behind me.

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post #73 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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So now with an ignition key, I can check things out. Like how many miles this engine has on it.





“A veteran is someone who, at one point in his life wrote a blank check made payable to ‘The United States of America ‘ for an amount of ‘up to and including his life.’ That is Honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it.”
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post #74 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Installed my first piece of glass:


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post #75 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Pulled the truck into my shop and up on the lift so I could remove the tank for cleaning. Probably going to replace the pump since there are 288k miles on it.


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post #76 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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It did give me an opportunity to look closely at the tag on the rear end. Trying to figure out the gear ratio but this doesn't look like any I'm used to seeing.



Not in the usual Dana format I guess.

Edit: I looked it up online, and it appears to be 3.55 gears. That would make sense!

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Last edited by BioTex; 11-13-2016 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Added gear ratio.
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post #77 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 09:20 AM
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It's a standard 8.8 with 3.55 open diff. No different than the majority of rigs out there.

I'm amazed it has 288+K on it, considering how clean and rust-free the body and floor pans are. You should closely inspect the frame rails for cracks and bends when you drop the tank, owing to the Hy-Rail gear that was on it...when they're in the 'up' position, they get bounced around pretty good.

_____________________________________________

[Silver70] In 100 years, when astronauts visit the landing site, they'll stumble upon the little FSB rover with a busted driveshaft, twisted up on a moon-rock flexing the SAS, and think, "Man... those things can go anywhere. Screw Jeep."
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post #78 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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It's a standard 8.8 with 3.55 open diff. No different than the majority of rigs out there.

I'm amazed it has 288+K on it, considering how clean and rust-free the body and floor pans are. You should closely inspect the frame rails for cracks and bends when you drop the tank, owing to the Hy-Rail gear that was on it...when they're in the 'up' position, they get bounced around pretty good.
Good advice. Will giver her a close inspection. I already dropped the tank. She had 1/2 full of the most awe full smelling old gas you can imagine. I scooped out the resin by the handfuls and then used my steam cleaner on it. It came out nice and shiny like new on the bottom and sides. The top has some minor rust but not bad really.

I ordered a new airtex pump with strainer etc... I think I can save the sender but not sure. What works good to soak it in and dissolve the varnish? I ordered a new brass float, but want to clean the electrical part. I tested out spray brake cleaner on it but it didn't do like I hoped. Perhaps some sort of thinner less strong than lacquer thinner?
Figured I ask first.

Edit:
Soaking in caustic soda (lye) with hot water. Cleaning the outside very nice but that's because I can use a tooth brush. The insides might not just dissolve. Going to soak for a couple hours and then try my water pick on it. I have some acetone for a final rinse. Hope this works... I'll test with my ohm meter before assembly.

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post #79 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Got both roll up windows and vents installed. The windshield has arrived and will be installed in a day or two. I was able to get the rear gate open after tripping the internal switch. I have the rear glass but not installed it yet.
Almost have her buttoned up.
I ordered all the lenses and bulbs, so shouldn't be long.

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post #80 of 131 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Got the sending unit spotless, and rinsing it off and the wire broke off. I took the housing apart and it looks like I can solder the wire back on, but am now thinking it better to just bite the bullet and buy a new one.
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