Heater core bypass and ac questions - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Heater core bypass and ac questions

So when my bought my 92 f250 in September my ac was super cold and the heater core was bypassed. The po replaced a lot of the ac parts recently. Then the freezing florida winter came so i bought a new heater core, also around that time i pulled all the old insulation out from under the vynal floor and replaced with 2 layers of fake dynamat. Around that time it started to feel like the heaters always on. But i dont know which caused it. So i would to do a heater core by pass to start with. I read the threads about it but didnt really find what i was looking for. Is there a 4 way bypass i can get that i can have a switch in the truck to open and close it? Or do i have to open the hood for all them?

Now my ac was cold for about a month. Then one day i was using it.shut the truck off. Then when i restarted it i had no ac. Havnt really had it since. When the po was replacing ac parts he used 4.9 ac hoses. I have a 7.3 idi. So the hoses arnt really in the right places. So im going to get those replaced before i go further on the ac

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 06:42 PM
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The heater/evap box design is so that when you have 'MAX A/C,' the fresh/recirc door is fully closed, and the blend door is supposed to be fully closed (full cold) when using 'MAX A/C.' If you have it set, and it's not reducing in-cabin temperature by 40*, then either the fresh/recirc door is not fully closing off the fresh air supply or you have a reduced refrigerant charge. Remember, no matter how good the A/C hoses and o-ring seals are, a system will lose charge from very small leakage as well as permeation through the hose walls. So, check the fresh/recirc door operation, check that the blend door moves and goes full hot to full cold, and have your A/C charge checked.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, im looking at the blend door next. But i did the heater core bypass today. I used a vacuum 4 way bypass from a explorer and a tad/tab solenoid from a f150 to control if its open or closed. I had a switch on my dash from the po that wasnt being used so that controls the bypass

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 06:52 PM
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Angelo,

you can get one of these explorer heater bypass units. It runs on vacuum. You attach the vacuum to the "White" Vacuum line. Then when you turn the blower to MAX, it will bypass the heater core.
Motorcraft Heater Control Bypass Valve for Ford Explorer Ranger Mercury

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:34 PM
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on these bypass valves, do you connect the white line outside in the engine bay or is it one of the vaccum hoses behind the dash on the control knob? After I get mine back from the Transmission shop, my next project is going to be a complete rebuild/retrofit conversion over to R134 in my 92. I want to install one of these also when I put it all back together so the AC will work a little better when it's 98* outside with no clouds

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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In the engine bay. I have my vac line connected to a tab/tad solenoid with a switch in my cab so i can pick when its open or closed

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 03:54 PM
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I think I read a way in one of the threads about this where you could have it operate when switching to Max, instead of having to operate it separately. I want to say it was in one of Steve83's posts and somewhere in his SP links. I've been looking but haven't seen it again.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMcD348 View Post
I think I read a way in one of the threads about this where you could have it operate when switching to Max, instead of having to operate it separately. I want to say it was in one of Steve83's posts and somewhere in his SP links. I've been looking but haven't seen it again.

Yes 4 post up. You commect to the white line. But i wanted be be able to control.

Drove it today with the heater core bypassed and it still feels like the heaters on. I think its radiating off the floor. Whats a good insulation to put under the vinyl?

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 05:12 PM
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the issue with having it T to that white hose is that when you use defrost it will be bypassed. might not be a big issue in summer down south but in winter up north it will be

i think i heard of replacing the dash vacuum switch or something that so it will have its own vacuum line that will tun on when needed. maybe a vacuum witch from early explorer or ranger?


EDIT: scratch that. i guess defrost uses outside air


as a matter of fact thats how the Explorer actually does it



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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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So when i turn my bypass off. It goes from vent to defrost. I think its loseing vacuum in the tab solenoid. I have it teed to the ac controls right now. I think its going to have to go straight to the vaccum tree.
What insulation can i use to replace the factory stuff. It doesnt need to deaden sound just stop the heat

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:54 AM
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Does your rig still have the cat converter? Those actually had emission-related recall problems, but this far in the truck's life, the recall may not apply. You should have an exhaust shop do a backpressure test, should be around 1/2 PSI, +/- 1/4 PSI, and if checked with a laser-aimed thermometer, it should be hotter at the rear from the front and have a temp differential of about 100-150* F.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Handy_andy_cv64 View Post
Does your rig still have the cat converter? Those actually had emission-related recall problems, but this far in the truck's life, the recall may not apply. You should have an exhaust shop do a backpressure test, should be around 1/2 PSI, +/- 1/4 PSI, and if checked with a laser-aimed thermometer, it should be hotter at the rear from the front and have a temp differential of about 100-150* F.
Straight pipe from turbo back.i keep on forgetting to use my laser thermometer

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ANGELO View Post
Yes 4 post up. You commect to the white line. But i wanted be be able to control.

Drove it today with the heater core bypassed and it still feels like the heaters on. I think its radiating off the floor. Whats a good insulation to put under the vinyl?
I started having this problem after I replaced the factory carpet/backing with inferior(much thinner) after market stuff.
My heater core is completely bypassed 11 months out of the year and after 20 min of driving my feet still feel like they're in an oven.

I was going to try something like this.....Automotive Heat, Sound and Noise Insulation

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thats not to expensive might have to look into it.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:28 AM
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i know on an episode of Finnegan's Garage, he replaced the floor insulation of the Roadkill ramp truck with floor insulation from LMC and it reduced like 20* of floor temperature. also if you put exhaust wrap around the exhaust it might help. when i wrapped my headers it sure lowered my underhood temps significantly, my IAT was showing like 140* when at lights now its around 110*. the radiator will always be a big source of heat on the firewall and floor however


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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust wrap will happen at some point. It helps with the turbo spool. The diesels have a mat that covers the firewall probably from sound but im sure it stops alot of heat to

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:21 PM
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The ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor, the sensor that tells the PCM the engine temperature) is in the "T" that the heater hoses connect to. If you stop the circulation of coolant through the heater, will that affect the ability of the ECT to sense the coolant temperature? (I haven't tried this, and really don't know the answer, but in the stock configuration, the coolant circulates through the heater at all times.)

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mikey350 View Post
The ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor, the sensor that tells the PCM the engine temperature) is in the "T" that the heater hoses connect to. If you stop the circulation of coolant through the heater, will that affect the ability of the ECT to sense the coolant temperature? (I haven't tried this, and really don't know the answer, but in the stock configuration, the coolant circulates through the heater at all times.)
Its not blocked, it just skipps thhe heater core so it still flows the same.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:29 PM
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Cool -thanks

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 06:56 PM
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Angelo, I would suggest, pulling out your dash, and all the A/C boxes. Yea I know, doesnt sound like any fun at all. Trust me, its Not. But, If you did, you could lay down a layer of Fat Mat Rattletrap XXX or equivolent sound deadener, which also acts as an insulator. Then A layer or 2 of the Foil backed Jute padding from LMC. Then the stock firewall heat shield. Then put all the A/C boxes back in and the dash. That should really help with the heat penetration. Also one thing I have seen on numerous 92-96 E series Trucks and Bronco's is this......

These Foam Gaskets that are on the Dash Vent/Frame release from the vent and drift out of position causing a massive air leak under the dash. I have removed numerous dash's from 92-96 broncos and trucks, and EVERY SINGLE ONE was like this or much worse. There are 2 larges air return gaskets and both tend to drift out of position and let go of the vent frame causing Massive air leaks. I have tried to repair it using stick on foam from Lowes. I have done it twice now. Each time I have removed the dash after a year or so the repair showed the same issue as the original foam. It drifts out of position. I suppose when the heater is on during the winter, it causes the adhesive to release and the foam drifts out of position. I am at a loss to come up with a new solution at the moment, but I am going to be pulling the dash very soon and I am going to have to figure it out. I am thinking about using epoxy to mount the foam to the plastic, at least that way it wont release from the heat. I just need to find a higher quality foam. I might take a trip to one of the fabric stores tomorrow and see if I can find anything that might work.




This grey foam is my lowes repair. It looked like it would work ok, but alas, no.

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