Ultimate Rock Slider thread - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-10-2005, 10:31 PM
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I have david built sliders..not mounted yet

i sprayed mine black then wrapped anti-skid from a C-130 around the round tube part (i swear the stuff is made with concreate)...need to redo the anti-skid though, didnt like how i origionally did it.


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post #22 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-10-2005, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, mostly finished mine up today. Still a few things I want to do, but no time before the next trip and have more important things to do before leaving.

I made these "Andy Skaar" sliders a long time ago. They are simply 2x3x.25 square tube, with end caps welded on. They get pushed up under the door sill, and three holes drilled from the top down. then tap the tube and whola, you have pretty good sliders that have gotten me through a lot of wheeling.

This is the best pic I could find.


and the top





The new sliders are made from 2x2x.25 square, round bent by dustin which is 1.5x.120, and the tie ins are a beefy 1.5x.188.



Tied into the cage frame mounts and one to the radius arm brackets. I plan to gusset where the cage/tie ins meet with some triangular gussets, and will also gusset where the spring hanger is. I dont like how much force can be applied to the spring hanger in the back,and welndmn swears these things can rip off the frame. So I think a simple mitered tube gusset should work fine.




My upside down welding definately leaves something to be desired.

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post #23 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-11-2005, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plug ugly
My upside down welding definately leaves something to be desired.
could be the wire you are using, i know when i was welding my cage and sliders (flux cored) it was actually easier to weld upside down (minus the slag dripping thru my t shirt)

mine

cage tie in (front hoop)

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post #24 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-11-2005, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSwiss999
Dustin, how thick are your mounting plates? Also, did you use stainless tubing for the sliders on your truck? (So shiny and nice!)
mounting plates are 3/16, nope thats just regular HREW tube that is really clean.

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post #25 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-11-2005, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plug ugly
Yeah, i tried to consider this when mounting mine. not sure how much my cab actually flexes with the frame mounted cage, but I know it does move some.
A nudder option here is to do the opposite....since Plug had the andy scarr style (so did I before these), I put those holes in the body to good use....

My first trip out with my new sliders worked great. The area that pushed my door in without them, not the same story with the sliders on. They do their job in pushing you off stuff. However, I didn't count on having a root sticking out of the embankment actually push my sliders down away from the body (actually bent the mounting plates at the frame).

So, I reworked them by using the 3 holes in the body I previously had already from the andy scarr's. 2 bolts front and back have 7/16ths bolts going through and attaching to the slider body, and the center bolt has a rubber bumpstop cut to proper size. They now sit right against the bottom of the body and make no noise, and it would be difficult to pry them down again.

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post #26 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-11-2005, 12:48 PM
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How come Andy gets these named after him?

I used 3x3 on mine. Burned two holes through the bottom and drilled through the top of the tube so I could bolt them up tight. I used two half inch bolts bolted through.

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post #27 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-11-2005, 01:00 PM
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How come Andy gets these named after him?

Not the Andy on here....Andy Skaar. One of the first to knowingly make/use the simple 3x2 rectangle up under the door. You know that, it's from years ago. Think I even remember us emailing about this design (bolt up under door) vs. legs over to frame. That was like 5 years ago dude. You were getting info. off the WT4wheelin site.

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post #28 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-11-2005, 03:45 PM
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Any opinions on welded vs. bolt on (Crazed style). Significant strength difference?

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post #29 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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I dont think there is a significant strength difference of one versus the other. I always prefer "bolt ons" for most anything. just in case you need to remove them later. It was just not possible for me personally.

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post #30 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-15-2005, 05:27 PM
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Here are some pics and specs of mine.

All 2x2x1/4" Mounting plates are 1/4"




Pics of the mounting plates.








04' cobra. 11.50 @ 122 colorados Fastest EATON only cobra
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post #31 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-25-2005, 10:03 PM
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O.K. Have some questions. I started welding class at the local college. Class is at the high school welding/ag. shop. I am some what @ there mercy for materials cause the nearest steal shop is 200 miles away in phoenix. I am building some sliders for the Bronc for my first project. The questions I have are,
1.) They sell 2x2 square .083 and .120 I only seen .083 on the shelf. Will this be strong enough for my application?

2.) I am going to build bumpers front and rear. I dont have major fab skills but can get along and produce a decent product in the end. Should I use A 2x6 steal stock and what thikness would you recommend?

Thanx for your replies in advance, Baked
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post #32 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-26-2005, 02:22 AM
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1) no. Since you seem to have only those two choices, get the .120" wall box tube, and stitch weld on 1/8" flat bar in the same width as the box tube you use, ie., .120 x 2" flat bar

2) You can use 6 x 2 box tube, if you like. At the very least, get .120" wall, preferrably .188" - if you can get your hands on it
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post #33 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-23-2006, 10:53 PM
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I'm about to fab up some sliders for my '96. I took some preliminary measurements tonight and it looks like the driver's side front is going to be the limiting factor regarding the size of the plate I can use. My plan is to duplicate what many of y'all have done, but in particular, Shadofax's setup using 1.5"x3" rectangular tubing. I'm trying to make them as symmetric as possible since a buddy is going to cut everything for me at his work.

Here are some pictures of where I'm thinking of mounting the plates, which will be 3" wide x 4" tall x 1/4" thick. I also plan on using 1.5"x.25" square tubing for the "outriggers", as Shadofax did. I'd appreciate the input of those who've done this....

Space is limited here on the driver's side front. There are two bolts (outlined in blue) that look like they could be removed, but if they can't, I'd locate the 3x4 plate as shown. Should I just put the slider outside of the fender mounting flange that hangs down? Regarding the fuel lines on the other side, I hope to avoid them with the holes and hardware and not have to relocate them.



Driver's side rear will be a little snug snaking it between the e-brake cables, as others have done:



Passenger front.....



....and passenger rear look straight forward.



If y'all see any issues with this or have suggestions, please let me know.

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post #34 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 10:05 AM
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That fender mounting flange can be mostly cut off, and you can always redrill the hole a bit higher, believe that's what I did since the sliders actually sit about almost right against the bottom of the quarter.

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post #35 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 10:17 AM
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To people that have used sliders...whats the thoughts on how long they should be?

All of these pictures show the sliders ending right at the fender arch. I can get some scrap steel which is not long enough to go from fender to fender, its about 6 inches too short on each end. I would imagine coming off a rock, those would be the 6 inches that get bashed first, but then again most rock damage I see is on the rocker panels/doors.

So how bad would it be to leave those small areas unguarded? Keep in mind its only 6 inches...if I have enough speed coming off the rock I will have moved forward enough to crash onto the slider...:-)
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post #36 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 10:23 AM
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Dustin, have you ever made a set out of stainless? I would like some, but Ohio is mean to regular steel. I know it would cost alot extra, but thats ok

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post #37 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kf4amu
So how bad would it be to leave those small areas unguarded?

Murphey's Law.

Bronco is sold to another member but the memory will live on.
I still come here to keep up with wheeling buddies and check out their rides.
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post #38 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kf4amu
To people that have used sliders...whats the thoughts on how long they should be?

All of these pictures show the sliders ending right at the fender arch. I can get some scrap steel which is not long enough to go from fender to fender, its about 6 inches too short on each end. I would imagine coming off a rock, those would be the 6 inches that get bashed first, but then again most rock damage I see is on the rocker panels/doors.

So how bad would it be to leave those small areas unguarded? Keep in mind its only 6 inches...if I have enough speed coming off the rock I will have moved forward enough to crash onto the slider...:-)
Mine don't go quite all the way to the arch, never know, one day ya might want to do a little fender trimming, so I left mine 2-3" short in the front, maybe 2" rear.

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post #39 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 11:46 AM
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here is what i did to the body mount flange




if i need to do more i can always just bust out the ole angle grinder

I am lost in lala land for the time being.
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post #40 of 151 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadofax
That fender mounting flange can be mostly cut off, and you can always redrill the hole a bit higher, believe that's what I did since the sliders actually sit about almost right against the bottom of the quarter.
That's what Crazed and I did with his sliders. Looks much cleaner that way, rather than being below that tab, or behind it
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