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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:45 AM
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How about selling the 89 and going to a 78-79 Bronco which already has a solid axle front and 9 inch rear from the factory. Use the $35K budget for an engine upgrade like a 4BT or maybe a Mercedes diesel would be easier in Norway. I think would end up with a better overall overlanding Bronco! Also sounds like less issues with the approval of road worthiness.
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 12:11 PM
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There is a 78-79 for sale in TN right now with the diesel swap already completed...see linkie:

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/6001366836.html

Welcome to the boards and good luck.

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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, like I said, Ive looked at the '78-79 a few times and considered back an forth.
Tell the truth I dont like it that much and the one we already own is in extremely good condition.
It also holds some sentimental value.

So Ive spent around 40 hours researching, reading and checking now. Hundreds of threads and tech-write-ups, engine swap videos on youtube, morons and experts.
The more I read, the more I realize I need more information.

Im going to start checking on monday what chances I have for getting a solid front axle approved, however I think its very unlikely.

At the moment it looks like I have two options.
1. I'll buy a used Sterling and rebuild it. Disc brakes, ARB, upgraded axle shafts and fit a ladder bar or link system. Perhaps a truss.
Ive found someone locally that can assist the rebuild.
As for the front, It looks like Ill swap to a D50 third member and shafts, new ring and pinion, bearings and quality rebuild parts and convert to 8-lug hubs with even more chevy parts.
Ill install the ARB locker here too and strengthen the arms as much as I can. Ill be using the Skyjacker 6" and modifying it somewhat.
That is an expensive mess of a job, but seems better then to have specially fabricated 5-lug axle shafts for a Sterling.

- OR -

I could get a Dana 60 crate axle and keep the 5-lug pattern...
I dont think the D60 in the rear will be strong enough to handle the torque from the LS3, however.

As much as I realize a 450tq engine with a 4L80 and atlas would like a solid front axle, this might be the only way for this very Bronco to be as good as it can be.
Its not like this is going to be a rock crawler anyway. From what I can read, the upgraded TTB should support 35" tires for "normal" offroad use.
When we do have to counter difficult obstacles, we will just have to keep in mind that the front is weaker then the rear and use the lockers and speed accordingly.

1989 Bronco XLT 5.0 33/12,5 on stock suspension. In storage, restoration / customization starting 2018.
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Can anyone here identify this front third member to be a D50 or a D44 HD based on the information in this ad?

Kardang foran Ford Truck F250 - NBF Bildeler

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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:47 PM
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fairly certain that is a d-50 as they came in the F250's from that year.
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:47 PM
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That is the Dana 50 TTB

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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 09:48 PM
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oh this should be good, if the sterling doesn't work out theres always the the gm 14 bolt (im thinking about going that route in the rear) ...i mean since its already getting a ls3 might as well keep the theme going, also can i ask why using the d50 and ttb is better then the solid axle in this situation, are you just looking for ride comfort or something different, or did i read that wrong?
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 11:22 AM
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He said Atlas though right? Isn't that "clock able" for drivers OR passenger's side drop?

96 Bronco, 5.8, E40D, manual everything (win,locks,hubs,tcase), vinyl seats, no carpet (bedliner), 4" RC lift, sway delete, custom cut fenders, and 35" MTRs. " Hell yeah I'll climb it!"
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 11:28 AM
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Sorry, Welcome to FSB and good luck, should be an awesome rig with that buget. Any old US military stuff there? I've always thought CUCV axles and an Atlas 4 would be sweet under my 96.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salts View Post
oh this should be good, if the sterling doesn't work out theres always the the gm 14 bolt (im thinking about going that route in the rear) ...i mean since its already getting a ls3 might as well keep the theme going, also can i ask why using the d50 and ttb is better then the solid axle in this situation, are you just looking for ride comfort or something different, or did i read that wrong?
Well the thing is we're going to go to very, very remote places with this thing so it simply has to function.
Ive spent TONS of hours on this forum and others like it, on youtube and just reading tech articles... I find that Ive been hyped quite a bit...
We're not going rock crawling, we're not going to hammer this on a weekly basis.

Dropping $35k in a truck, I really have to have it approved by the road authorities and printed in the registration, otherwise it will really hurt my ability to use it on road and the second-hand value.
I've had to revise our actual purpouse with this vehicle, and I think the LS3 is overkill. The LS3 will be too powerful for the 8.8" and the D44 TTB.
Research shows that I will not have a SAS approved. If I do it anyway and get pulled over, I will lose my plates, or if there is an accident, insurance wont cover me.
That means spending as much as I need to make the TTB stronger. (Camburg cut and bend, RCV axles, D50 third member, ARB locker, a PROPER lift kit for 4", upgraded steering).
I will also upgrade the 8.8 with as much beef as I can get, full-float kit, axles and ARB locker, new ring and pinion.
Ill do brake upgrades in order to have the lift and larger wheels approved.
Ive been looking at the Engine Factory 302 EFI truck replacement engine with mass air conversion, Gearstar E4OD and atlas 2.

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Originally Posted by justjim View Post
He said Atlas though right? Isn't that "clock able" for drivers OR passenger's side drop?
You can have the Atlas drop what way you want, from what I gather.
Enough to make it work somehow with 4L80E and a Ford drivetrain.

Anyway - does anyone have first hand experience with Engine Factory?
Ford Truck EFI Bronco and F150 Powerplants

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post #31 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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I suppose my question at the end of :Walloftext: wasnt easy to spot.

Does anyone have first hand experience with Engine Factory?
351W / 390 HP / 410lbs Torque EFI '86-96 Ford Truck Engine
Either this or the 302...

Any other SBF crate motors with the proper EFI (not throttle body) vendors?
I REALLY want to buy a complete, dynotested engine.
Thats why I was looking at the LS in the first place.
Coyote is not an option.

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post #32 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:58 AM
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That seems too expensive for what is there. I would not accept hyper Pistons for that price. I also would not accept remanufactured stock rods if that is what they are using either.
I have very similar 357w in my 92 and with the MAF kit I am only around $6500 in the whole engine, with H-bream Rods and SRP Forged Pistons, Main studs, head studs. etc...
Also maybe talk to Scotty
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/home
an EFI 460 easily will make that kind of power, but do it extremely reliably and very well mannered.


The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
Build Thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...8-project.html

Last edited by CrazyBRONCOguy; 03-20-2017 at 10:02 AM.
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post #33 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:13 AM
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Wow, that's a ton of money. I find my stock 96 5.8 to be just fine for normal use and I'm able to make due off road with 35" tires and 3:55 gears although i plan to regear as soon as funds are available. I'd go with a mildly upgraded mass air 5.8 if I were you for reliability and economy, based on owning and driving one. How much is a quality rebuild there? I know Ford's are usually more expensive than that other brand, so I understand the LS idea. My buddy put an L33 (all aluminium 5.3l) in his Volvo and ran Megasquirt for about $5k including a built 4l80e trans and engine rebuild and it's a super solid combo.

96 Bronco, 5.8, E40D, manual everything (win,locks,hubs,tcase), vinyl seats, no carpet (bedliner), 4" RC lift, sway delete, custom cut fenders, and 35" MTRs. " Hell yeah I'll climb it!"
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post #34 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyBRONCOguy View Post
That seems too expensive for what is there. I would not accept hyper Pistons for that price. I also would not accept remanufactured stock rods if that is what they are using either.
I have very similar 357w in my 92 and with the MAF kit I am only around $6500 in the whole engine, with H-bream Rods and SRP Forged Pistons, Main studs, head studs. etc...
Also maybe talk to Scotty
Re in"Car"nation High Performance - Home
an EFI 460 easily will make that kind of power, but do it extremely reliably and very well mannered.
Truth be told, I dont need much more power. Id be happy with some improved low-mid-range torque.
460 is no option, has to be smallblock due to approval of roadworthiness.
Ford racing long block, efi intake and replace their cam with a slightly more torqy one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by justjim View Post
Wow, that's a ton of money. I find my stock 96 5.8 to be just fine for normal use and I'm able to make due off road with 35" tires and 3:55 gears although i plan to regear as soon as funds are available. I'd go with a mildly upgraded mass air 5.8 if I were you for reliability and economy, based on owning and driving one. How much is a quality rebuild there? I know Ford's are usually more expensive than that other brand, so I understand the LS idea. My buddy put an L33 (all aluminium 5.3l) in his Volvo and ran Megasquirt for about $5k including a built 4l80e trans and engine rebuild and it's a super solid combo.
Yeah, Im thinking 4.56 gears to be honest.
Engine rebuilders here are not something I want to rely on. It is also very expensive.
Any suggestions as to who builds quality replacement engines?
Ive mailed Roush and Blueprintengines... :P

1989 Bronco XLT 5.0 33/12,5 on stock suspension. In storage, restoration / customization starting 2018.
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post #35 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:59 PM
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I didn't purchase it... but my last '90 FSB had a 275 HP, 302 from Engine Factory.
Seemed a little high priced and the heads used weren't the good GT40 ones I'd hoped when I had to dig in.
Not having ordered it... I can't say if that was a company "go-to" or a cheap decision on the purchasers part.

Still... engine ran great, sounded great and had some good pep to it w/4.56 gears.
I enjoyed many long road trips with it... but it was leaking too much oil with less than 12k miles from the swap.

Not sure if I'd buy one from them myself but I have more time than money to spend.



And... Welcome to FSB! Nice looking rig. Love some snow pics.

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post #36 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
I didn't purchase it... but my last '90 FSB had a 275 HP, 302 from Engine Factory.
Seemed a little high priced and the heads used weren't the good GT40 ones I'd hoped when I had to dig in.
Not having ordered it... I can't say if that was a company "go-to" or a cheap decision on the purchasers part.

Still... engine ran great, sounded great and had some good pep to it w/4.56 gears.
I enjoyed many long road trips with it... but it was leaking too much oil with less than 12k miles from the swap.

Not sure if I'd buy one from them myself but I have more time than money to spend.



And... Welcome to FSB! Nice looking rig. Love some snow pics.
Thank you!
As someone pointed out here yesterday, the engine internals are not the best, the edelbrock heads are not the best, they insist on selling you auxiliaries and all kinds of extras...
Im starting to think I wanna put my money inside the engine instead :P
Ford Racing 302 long block, swap in a torqy rollercam and get the EFI somewhere else...
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post #37 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Any good suggestions for camshafts for 351EFI?
Low-midrange torque?

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post #38 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 06:22 AM
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The stock one is actually decent for that, especially if you are doing the full roller version
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The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
Build Thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...8-project.html
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post #39 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 08:56 AM
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I used the crane cam 444232 in my 351 build, nice mid-range RV cam and I've been really happy with it.

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.448 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.464 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.448 int./0.464 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
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post #40 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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I was lucky enough to discover this piece of rust at my local junkyard today. Its from a 1992 F-250. Can anyone confirm its a D50 and that it will bolt on to my Bronco 1989 TTB housing?



I plan to do the D50 third member conversion.

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