Returning member...but need a Bronco! - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Talking Returning member...but need a Bronco!

*To Mods* Hope this is ok to put here. If not, I understand.

Hello all. I joined a few years ago when I had a 1993 Black/Tan EB. Was a sexy Bronco...but the drive train was essentially worn out...225k and Trans was blown. So I foolishly sold it...and I haven't really been able to stop checking out Broncos since. (been about 5 years)

In the meantime, I've had a bunch of different things, all of them stick shifts. Current ride is a 2016 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited 6spd which is great...except for the price...and the fact its built like a beer can.

The other day, I passed a dirt used car lot and he actually had a decent shape 92 Bronco. This one had the 302 w/5spd. So I said why not and test drove it...and instantly loved it! I never knew the big bronco could be so much fun to drive with the "under powered 302." Problem was...this particular Bronco was a little more project than driver and I dont want to risk getting into a money pit.

So basically after thinking about it for a couple weeks, I am going to try my hand and finding a good shape 92-96 Bronco w/ the 302 and 5spd. I will be selling my Jeep in order to get rid of that car payment. While I dont want to spend an absolute fortune on it, I am willing to pay a fair price for the right Bronco...even if that means 15k or so. Also willing to travel...again for the right Bronco.

Looking for the following:
XL or XLT (prefer XLT)
5 spd Manual
Color: Brown, Tan, Blue, Green, Grey are preferred. Bonus if its two tone!
Shape: As good as possible and as close to stock as possible. (saw a decent green one but the list of mods was bit much for a daily driver)

Problem is...there doesn't seem to be any...anywhere!!!! I use Autotempest (scans all Ebay, Autotrader, Craigslist, etc) and thus far came out with....and neither really meet my criteria beyond the fact they are a 5 spd.

So long story short, if anyone is selling or knows someone selling what I would consider the right one, please let me know!!!!

Look forward to seeing y'all in the tech section soon! (hopefully)
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:09 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Smithville MS
Posts: 42
Bronco Info: 95 bronco 5.0 (original) swap to 5.8 (in process)
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A lot of people hate on the 302/5.0 but it does just fine. There are also people who swear by only the 302, and say if you go bigger you are wrong. Personally I think the 351/5.8 is just a big brother to the 302. It has almost the exact same aftermarket, just has a little more grunt. But some people would shoot you for getting the 5.8. As I always say, "there's no replacement for displacement!" Good luck man!
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:16 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: N.E. WA
Posts: 32,217
Bronco Info: '95 XLT, 5.8/E4OD/MassAir/6" lift/4.56's/35x12.5 BFG AT-KO2
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we have a for sale area but first you need to be an involved member with 75 posts to get into it.
sales outside of that area are against the rules... otherwise, what's the point right? nothing personal.

that said... I recently picked up a '95 XLT after scouring Craigzilla (Craigslist compilation search engine) daily for 2 months.
Ended up driving 470 miles to check the right one out. Thanks to due diligence, I brought it home and we're living happily ever after... mostly.

wish you luck. welcome back. shame you lurked so much and didn't get more involved before.
where are you at anyway? filling out your profile info might help, if someone in your area wanted to contact you directly.

nothing wrong with a good 302 but if you end up towing... 351 is the obvious choice.

"When life throws you a curve... LEAN INTO IT!"

SuperMotors - Since 2002
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 11:30 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 16,969
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
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Yo Robe81,
For your Broncos search questions, it is better to ask in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).
Can move this thread there if you agree.

When you have time, fill out your Bronco Info with location as Pepe' advised. for better responses.
Click User CP
Edit Your Details,
Scroll down to Bronco Info

Common Replies to FAQs includes for example:
How to use search (Advanced)
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)

Check with local dealer to see if cruise control, if equipped recall;
for 93 Bronco was performed; "...Ford is recalling 225,000 my 1992-2003 Econoline, 1993-1995 Taurus SHO, 1992-1998 Crown Victoria, 1993 Bronco, F-Series,1995-1997 F-Series Super Duty stripped chassis, 1992-1998 Mercury Grand Marquis, and 1992-1995 Lincoln Town Car vehicles. The affected vehicles were previously repaired using a wiring harness that is not compatible with the vehicle circuit polarity. As a result, the fuse is located in the output circuit rather than in the intended input power feed circuit, and may not offer the intended protection in the event of an electrical short to ground. Dealers will install a new wiring harness, or replace the mating electrical component. The recall began on February 18, 2008. Owners may contact Ford at 1-800-392-3673. Ford recall no. 08s01. Customers may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's vehicle safety hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV..."

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Check VIN for Model Year & Engine Type (for example; 5.0, 5.8, 4.9 or 351W CID 5.8 4 BBL Carb, etc.) .
Check on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford (need VIN), must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
Ask for maintenance records. If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Order a CarFax. Although not all accident info is provided other important info is providee @
While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.
dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing - look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop, but some diy.
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mount deterioration and frame rust
-transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.
Is CEL ON when starting or while driving?

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) , it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe

For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy with a scanner.

The anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors the electromechanical components of the system. Malfunction of the anti-lock brake system will cause the Anti-lock brake electronic control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power assisted braking remains. Malfunctions are indicated by the amber ABS warning light inside the vehicle.

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (93-96) is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. If system is OK, Code 16 will be present.
Our module blew the microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

miesk5 NOTE: "1987 was the year the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; "...Rear-wheel ABS is another type of ABS available on some light trucks. It works in a similar fashion to four-wheel ABS, but monitors and operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels..."

Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD.. be sure your pc, etc will be able to read the DVD, or buy a paper version.

Cash is King.
As craigslist advises, "Avoid scams, deal locally Beware wiring (e.g. Western Union), cashier checks, money orders, shipping"
A summary of questions to ask the seller;
"* Do you have all the maintenance records?
* Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
* How do I get the title?
* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
* Do you have all the maintenance records?
* How much tread is left on the tires?
* Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?
* Did this car belong to a smoker?
* Was this car used by pet owners?
* Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
* Are there any document or preparation fees?"
Courtesy of ebay
BTW, 96 5.8 was not built with Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc.
The 96 5.0 was built with secondary air.

Enjoy our site & please VOTE FSB for Top4x4 site once daily @ - Listing some of the top 4x4 and Off Road sites on the web!

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Miesk5, that would be great if you could move it to the Noobie section. Didnt really think to put it there.

Also thanks for the great advice. I know I have a tall order on this one...gonna have to play the long game.

Thanks again!
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