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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 09:38 PM
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Post 18
26-What Transfer Case Do I Have?


NP203F 1978-1979 Full time unit, heavy-duty, cast iron, chain driven with direct mounting.
NP205F 1978-1979 Part time unit, heavy-duty, cast iron, gear driven with direct mounting.
NP208F 1980-1986 Part time aluminum case unit.
BW1356F 1987-1996 Medium-duty, magnesium case, manual and electric shift.

Ref: http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_...tification.pdf
Ref: http://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech/transfer_cases.htm

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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-14-2011, 06:05 PM
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#27 I found a 2wd transmission that I want to use. Can I simply unbolt the tailhousing and bolt on a t-case adapter?

No. The output shaft has to be swapped and that involves tearing down the transmission completely to do so.
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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28- I'm trying to start a vehicle that has been sitting for a long time. What should I do?

This is a combined reply from a few threads (Run it or Not? That's the question, Starting a Bronco after being stored for prolonged period, & Engine has sat for 2 years). There's more info in those threads from several members that you might want to check out too.


You should expect the compression to be low at first after sitting several years with no oil on the rings. Dry rings alone will drop the compression. You should squirt oil in all 8 before trying to crank it.

My dad is a guy for bringing those back to life. He had a garage when I was a kid, then taught auto shop for years, & was always trying to revive some old engine. His routine was to change the crankcase oil & filter, squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil thru the plug holes, rotate the engine without starting it just enough to coat the cylinder walls, add a little more thru the plug holes, & let sit for a bit before firing it up. He'd run the engine easy for little awhile (Maybe 15 minutes to 1/2 hour?), then change the oil & filter again. Of course the 1st fire up would smoke a lot as the oil burned out of the cylinders. Sometimes he'd mix in a little ATF (1/2 quart at the most) with the crankcase oil in the 1st oil change to aid in cleaning if he thought the old oil looked especially bad. He'd drive it easy for few days, & make the call after that as to whether or not it needed more work or just another oil change. It would usually work out pretty good.

And of course, check all rubber parts for signs of cracking or stiffness. Tires, hoses, belts, wiring, & especially anything handling fuel.

Look for signs of animal damage. Chewed wiring, nesting material under the hood, along the exhaust, or even in the intake to the air cleaner. I've actually removed nuts stored by squirrels from inside an air cleaner.

Check the brakes. Low fluid is not unusual after sitting for awhile. If the master cylinder is dry, you will probably have to bleed the brakes. Check the brake hoses for cracking, stiffness or swelling. Check the entire system for leaks after topping off the master cylinder & stepping on the brakes several times. Also step lightly on the brakes & hold them to see if the master cylinder creeps down. Even after inspection, be sure that they're working right before driving. Try them in the driveway several times before taking it out. Expect the brake drums & rotors to have some surface rust, but that's usually light enough to come off after a few stops. But the brakes might be prone to grab or pull until it's gone. Depending where & how long it was stored, the rust might be more serious. It's not a bad idea to check the condition of the pads & shoes anyway, you can see how much rust there is at that point. Does the parking brake work & release? Lube its cables while you're at it.

Check all the fluids. A radiator flush with a change of coolant is a good idea too.

There is also the condition of the fuel to be considered. Sometimes it has sat so long that the tank & components have a build up of varnish that requires removal, cleaning, or replacement. If you decide to not remove & replace/clean fuel system components, here's a routine for a carbureted engine when the fuel isn't that bad. If marginally bad fuel is suspected, disconnect the fuel line at the carb & run a fuel hose from a small gas tank sitting on a blanket on the roof. I have used a lawnmower tank for years, & recently got a small boat tank for the job. So you have known good fuel & positive gravity feed to the carb for the first fire up. If there is a fuel issue at that point, you know the carb itself has the problem. Also remove & plug the fuel line before the fuel pump so you don't have to deal with it pumping bad gas just yet. Even so, still direct the output line from the pump safely into a container in case there's a little fuel in the pump. I like to run a hose to a can on the ground. Later the input to the pump can be reconnected, the line from the pump can be used to empty what you couldn't get out of the tank, & flush a little new gas through the system into the gas can while the engine is run from the temp tank. All of this requires attention to fire prevention (Being sure that nothing is going to pump, leak, or drip fuel anywhere & that anything spilled while making connections is wiped up, dried, & the rags removed from the area & allowed to dry before throwing or washing) since the engine will be run while some lines are disconnected.

If you are inexperienced or don't feel confident about taking on this type of work, seek advice from a local experienced person, or take it to a shop to do the work.

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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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29- My truck has a vibration. How do I check U-joints?

Sometimes a bad u-joint is a little hard to catch. It might be something else, but the driveshaft is a common source of vibration & easy to check. A truck in park can take up any freeplay so u-joint problems are hidden. This a pretty good way to check for them:

-Park on flat ground, block the wheels, & set the parking brake.
-Engine off.
-Put the truck in neutral.
-Crawl underneath & wiggle & rotate the rear driveshaft.
-Move each individual component starting with the output from the t-case & working your way back to the rear diff.
-Look closely at both u-joints in the double cardan joint at the front of the rear driveshaft. Look for looseness in the centering ball.
-Check the slip joint in the center of the driveshaft for wobble. It should be lubed periodically.
-Look closely at the single u-joint at the rear of the rear driveshaft.
-You're looking for any freeplay or movement in each of the 4 cups for each joint.
-Depending on the type, look at the clips or u-bolts that hold the cups in place.
-Make sure the cups are seated inside the tabs on the yoke for u-bolt mounted u-joints.
-On 1990 & newer trucks also check the flange to flange bolts at both ends of the driveshaft. Loose flange bolts can make for a wicked vibration.
-Check where the flanges mount to the t-case & rear end.
-While you're there, you might as well repeat the tests for the front driveshaft.
-Remember to put it back in park when you're done.
-If everything is good, lube any joints that can be.

It's also a good time to check hub & t-case engagement, & front axle u-joints too. Check Post 25 below for the tests.

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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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30- How do I test my hubs? (Either auto or manual hubs)
31- How do I know my transfer case is engaging?


Gacknar's good instructions are quoted below for the tests for hubs & t-case. For manual hubs, just lock them for the hub test & unlock them for the t-case test. Do the t-case test at the bottom first in case auto hubs won't unlock. Be sure to park on flat ground & block the wheels for these tests.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gacknar View Post
How to test Ford Auto locking hubs on all TTB aplications.
1. Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall.

2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only).

3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only).

After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7.

4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working.

5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only).

6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning.

Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them)

7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs.

To check for transfercase engagement.


1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO.

2. lie under vehicle.

3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction.

4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly.
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 09:14 AM
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32- How Do I Operate My Manual Hubs? (Except for 87 to Early 88 Flange Type Hubs)
(since we're on locking hubs)
ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
by Warn®

33- How do I test my 96's Automatic Locking Hubs?
Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction. NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position. Road Test; When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance. Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction. If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced. Should hublocks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and 4x4 Gear Oil F1TZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (F1TZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hublocks. Reassemble hubs using procedures in this section. Refer to Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B for replacement of outer axle shaft seals or spindle inner seal and bearing. from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual

34-How do I test my 96's Manual Locking Hubs?
Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case (7A195) in 2-wheel drive and raise the front wheels (1007) off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged. from 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com

35- How Do I Test Manual Locking Hubs? (Except for 87 to Early 88 Flange Type Hubs)
Dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance.
by Warn®


36- How Do I Troubleshoot the Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift-On-The- Fly (ESOF) Transfer Case & Locking Hubs?
Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation; same for 87-96; exc for that in 87; power from Fuse 6 (15 amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" WHT-PPL and CB 12 (30amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" BLK-WHT; SEE A7 and A8 in the 4x4 diagram, it shows those two wires BLK-WHT as BK/W from SHIFT MODULE to P1 BATTY and and WHT-PPL as W/P to P2
Source: by Ford via Chilton


37- Will Changing Just Two Tires to a Different Size (Diameter/Circumference) &/Or Air Pressure Difference Affect My Bronco in 4x4 Mode?
"...You will recall that at the beginning of this section, we mentioned that we had made sure that all four tires on our truck were the same size, were worn the same amount, were inflated to the specified pressure and were subjected to reasonable loading. Avoiding driveline windup was the reason for this. Figure 18A shows that tires of even slightly different size roll different distances every revolution. Figure 18B shows that the same effect is true for tires that are the same size but inflated or loaded differently. Operating a 4 x 4 in 4WD with tires of different size or inflation will produce driveline windup, even when driving straight ahead! If the vehicle is being driven in 4WD on dry, hard pavement, the driver will notice drag and may experience the hop, skip, bounce effect as the front or rear wheels release the windup..." in Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation; see page 4-6 & Figures
by Ford via Chilton

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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38- Why do I need 75 posts to see the classified section?

We had a rash of ripoffs, & the mods were putting in a ton of time trying to resolve them. There were many threads about the bad deals. It was discussed a lot, & the decision was made to implement the 75 post rule.

The effect it would have on new members was actually a big part of the discussion before the "For Sale" post count rule change. I was one of those who argued against the post limit. But people were getting ripped off. And our mods & admins (volunteers) were putting in a bunch of time to try to resolve bad deals by unscrupulous buyers & sellers. The 75 post rule won out.

And, even though I was originally against it, I have to admit that since implementing the 75 post requirement for the classifieds, there have been very few of the "I got ripped off" threads. They were becoming far too common. Bad guys had figured out that they could come here & take advantage of Bronco owners.

Yes, there appears to be far less activity in the classifieds. Probably because the new folks are usually the most eager to buy. And most of them are good people & it is discouraging for them to not have access. But removing the dark cloud that followed each of the thefts has been a huge improvement everywhere else on the site. We have had to realize that we are primarily a site that exists to support Bronco enthusiasts, & not a site that exists to sell them stuff.

Ranger429 explains it clearly here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger429 View Post
The classifieds section is LOCKED untill you have 75 posts. It is a rule that has been at FSB for quite some time and there are NO plans for it to change.

Spamming the forum to get to 75 posts WILL NOT be tolerated.

Posting one liners such as:

"nice Bronco", "looks good" or similiar type of posts will be deleted if they are found.

We ask that you participate in the forum so that the other members get to "know" you. Posting one liners does nothing other than get to the magical number of 75 and I think I can speak on behalf of the staff at FSB those types of posts will be DELETED once found OR your post count reset to 0.
Pepe` goes into some of the reasoning here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
...We want to get to know you... not the new people coming in, we... being the folks that are already here. we can't get to know you, if your hiding out in here, just welcoming the new people or asking questions like this.
Go into the "Anything & Everything" and just talk to some people. Find a build thread and ask some questions about what interests you... have some real interaction with us and before you know it, you'll be over 75 posts and enjoying the For Sale area in the proper fashion.
It is not a door that will be locked forever. Jump in, become part of the community. It really doesn't take that long.

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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39- Should I install a Flex Fan on my Bronco?

It depends on your usage, but probably not if you offroad it.

Flex fans aren't really designed for slow speed driving. They are more of a hot rod item. The idea is that they are pitched greater & move a lot of air at idle, then flatten out & move less air as the revs go up. They are supposed to reduce horsepower draw at highway speeds. That is good for a street driven vehicle, since normally as the revs go up speed increases, & more air is pushed thru the radiator by the movement of the vehicle. You don't really need a fan at highway speeds.

But driving offroad using our low gearing, the revs can climb without the vehicle going very fast. So with a flex fan in a high revving low geared climb, when you really want more air movement, it flattens out & moves less air. It is backwards to what we need.

And, for whatever it's worth, I knew a guy who had a flex fan installed backwards on his Jeep. We saw it & tried to warn him, but he wasn't going to hear it. Maybe he thought it would help to move more air in a high revving low geared climb. He eventually decided it wouldn't work when he revved it up enough to flex it backwards right into his new radiator.

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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-03-2014, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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40- Do I need 30 Posts to start a Thread on FSB?
41- How do I ask questions without 30 Posts?
42- My posts don't seem to be counting. Why?

Yes & no. It depends on where you are. I don't know all of this, since it has been awhile. Here's what I think you can do. If you find something different, please post it here & I'll add it.
  • You can start a thread right away in introductions. It would be a little nuts to make you wait for 30 posts to introduce yourself. It's a good place to tell us about your Bronco & show off some pics. Questions might get missed in there, since people usually just say hi in intros.
  • You can start a thread right away in the Newbie Tech forum. It's a good place to ask questions. Over the years, the 78-79 & 80-96 forums used to get cluttered with the same questions over & over. "What size tires can I run?", "Where can I buy a soft top?", "What is up with Gack & yams?", & so on. But to new guys, this is the 1st time to see this question. So they split Tech into multiple sections. Anything can be asked in Newbie Tech without cluttering up the more detailed tech sections. It is a "No Flaming" section, so feel at ease asking anything. You'll find some real pros answering questions in there.
  • It looks like you can start one in the Site Feedback & Help forum. It makes sense. New guys might need help, & the "Why can't I post?" threads seem to show up there all the time.
  • The specific (78-79, 80-96, SAS, etc.) Tech forums have a 30 post minimum to begin a new thread. I believe if you search & find an existing thread in those forums on the same topic as your question, you can post in the existing thread. Just keep on topic, & don't take a working thread off course.
  • For the classified section it is 75 to even see it. Set in stone. Since 2008. Discussed to death. Eliminated the rip-offs that plagued us for a short time. For details see FAQ 38 (Post #27) above.
  • I don't know about the rest. Post up what you find.



And about how the post count works:
  • Posts don't count in all forums. Introductions don't. Tech does. The Top 4x4 thread does. I'm not sure what else does or doesn't, but will try to keep an eye out & update this with more info.
  • Don't go nuts trying to pad your posts. Mods reset counts when they see a bunch of "Cool Bronco" drop-ins in a row.
  • And if it seems like it's ok to pad, since no one says anything about it, be aware they usually wait until someone gets close to 75 to do the reset.
    (Those guys don't get paid for their work around here & have to have some sort of reward. )

Jump in, give us a chance to get to know you. Ask questions. Answer when you can. It won't take long. The point is to have members of this community involved. Agree or disagree, they put post count limits there to restrict the people who don't want to become part of the community from fouling it up for the rest of us.

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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43- I am new here. How do I get started?

First off, welcome to the site! Glad you found us. Any of the text below that is shown in a different color is a link that will take you to that location when you click on it.

There are some things you should do to get set up. Go to the User CP & enter your info.
<----- Some details will show up over there on every post once you do. We all refer to those for info on your Bronco or to see what part of the country you are in. Some answers are different depending on those details. Refer to post 5 above if you need more specifics.

Go to Introductions & hit the "New Thread" button to start a thread to introduce yourself. Tell us a little about you & your truck. Post some pics if you want. See post 4 above for some pic posting help. It's not really a section for asking questions, but it is a good place to try everything out & say hi.

Ask questions. You can jump into an existing thread if your question is on the same topic. Just don't take a current working thread off track. If your subject is different, find another thread or start your own.

It is difficult enough to understand everything written here. Punctuation helps & is appreciated. Typing in ALL CAPS is considered yelling. The smilies help to give an idea as to intent that can't be seen thru a keyboard.

You can start a new thread to ask questions in the Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! It is built for newcomers, & you will find some real pros answering questions in there. Ask about any years or models. You can even ask where to buy a soft top or what size tires will fit.

Do some reading. The 1978-'79 Bronco Tech & 1980-'96 Bronco Tech sections won't let you start a thread until you hit 30 posts, but you can see them & ask questions in a current thread if it is on topic.

You can't get into the classifieds section until you hit 75 posts. Yes, it isn't fair, it's not welcoming, it hurts both sellers & newbies, etc, etc, etc. It is FSB's policy that was established years ago after several ripoffs. It is explained in post 27 above if you want more detail. Don't try listing stuff in other locations. The mods will wipe it out. Don't go nuts with one liner replies to up the post count. They will reset padded post counts. Jump in & become part of the group. 75 will come soon enough.

Search is in the drop down under "Tools" above. Everyone will tell you when to use it, but aren't likely to use it themselves. Don't sweat it. If you can't find something, ask.

And please vote for us daily. We are in a monthly contest for Top4x4 site. Click on the box below, then click on the "Vote for the site you just left" link. You can follow along & post updates in this thread: Top 4x4


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post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35" bfg m/t. --73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
44- What is Top4x4 & what is the voting about?
We here at FullSizeBronco are in a monthly contest for the top position at Top4x4. It only takes 2 clicks to vote. You don't have to register or tell them who you are. With the hundreds of people who are on this site daily we can be #1 easily. Please vote for us everyday & encourage others to do the same.

It is simple. Click on either banner below, or any of the links you find in signatures around the site, or the banner on the Forums page, then click on "Click here to vote for the site you just left" on the the page that follows.


That's it. If you want to post in this thread & tell us you voted, what the current count is, or encourage others to vote, all the better.


If you want to add a banner to your signatue so it shows up in every post, add this code:
[URL="http://top4x4sites.com/cgi-bin/arp/rankem.cgi?id=dsotmoon"][IMG]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/136386/original/top4x4firevote.gif[/IMG}{/URL]
for the black banner above. You will need to swap out the }{ for ][ near the end of the code so it will display properly.

Or add this code
[URL="http://top4x4sites.com/cgi-bin/arp/rankem.cgi?id=dsotmoon"][IMG]http://www.fullsizebronco.com/images/top_4x4.gif[/IMG}{/URL]
for the white banner above. You will need to swap out the }{ for ][ near the end of the code so it will display properly.




How does it work?
(Compiled from Top 4x4 How does it work?)
  • Only one vote per visitor will be recorded every 24 hours to avoid artificially inflating the numbers.
  • The statistics are updated once every hour, so your clicks won't show up immediately.
  • Visitors must knowingly click on the link on your page to vote. No automated or forced voting will be allowed. This is simply to prevent unscrupulous "stuffing" of the "ballot box."
  • "In month" is the number of votes (or hits) your site has sent to Top4x4Sites during the current month. This is the number that determines the rankings.
  • If any member is caught cheating in any way their account will be suspended immediately and with no questions asked.
    • This includes all automated or forced linking where votes are cast or a pop-up is created without your visitor's specific and active permission. Visitors must knowingly click on the link from your site and you must make it obvious that they are clicking the link to vote for your site.
    • All voting must be done from the site being voted for. You may not have other sites help you gain votes. You (or your site members) may not post on other sites or forums asking them to vote.
    • No blind or invisible links allowed.
    • You may not offer your visitors any kind of outside incentive to vote, such as asking them to vote as part of a contest to win prizes.
    • No email spamming allowed. Mass emailing to people you don't know is spam, is illegal, and will get you kicked off the list.
    • If you see a site who you think is cheating please email me.

What do we get if we win? Not a cent. But we get the recognition from showing our support for our site, exposure to others as the top FSB site on the web, & bragging rights. What more could we want?

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline  
post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SoCal (SGV)
Posts: 6,383
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35" bfg m/t. --73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
45- How do I check for bad u-joints?
46- My driveshaft makes a "ringing" sound. Why?


There can be a "ringing" sound that is u-joint related. Kind of a "ting ting ting" that comes under acceleration. Changes with vehicle speed & goes away when you let off the gas. A sound like that can be a driveshaft/u-joint issue.

Thoroughly check the u-joints. It is important to "unload" the driveshaft. If you are not in neutral, the driveshaft could be under load & taking up any slack, keeping you from locating problems. Park it on flat ground, block in front & behind the wheels, leave the engine off, set the brake, & put it in neutral.

Once you are sure that it cannot run over you, crawl underneath & move the driveshaft & u-joints by hand. Move everything side to side, up & down, & rotate them against each other while holding either side of the u-joints. Look & feel for any movement between any parts in the driveshaft, u-joints, & connections to trans & rear diff. The slightest movement can indicate an issue. Also make sure the caps, clips, & u-bolts are all aligned & seated properly.

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline  
post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SoCal (SGV)
Posts: 6,383
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35" bfg m/t. --73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
47 -What V8 Engine Do I Have?

The code on the door tag will tell what engine came from the factory, but the engine may have been swapped out along the way. The quickest place to start is by counting the valve cover bolts. Bold sizes are typical stock engines used in FSBs.

V8s
  • 8 bolts on a 335 series 351m/400 or a Cleveland 351c.
  • 7 bolts on a 385 series 429/460. Not normally a factory install in a Bronco.
  • 6 Bolts on a Windsor. 221/260/289/302/351w.
  • 5 bolts on an FE. 332/352/360/390/406/410/427/428 & more. Older. Not factory in FSBs.
  • 2 Bolts on a Y block. Older still. Also not factory in FSBs.
More to come later.

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline  
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