LIFT AND TIRE INFORMATION FOR 80-96 BRONCOS - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 632 (permalink) Old 09-29-2005, 10:14 PM
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Tuff Country lift kits are known for their unique Ford F150 axle pivot brackets that included camber adjustment bolts. By using a camber adjustment bolt -2.5 to +2.5 degrees of adjustment is added. This allows for a precise front end alignment and better tire wear. ---Suspension Connection.com's description of lift.

Does this mean that I won't need the camber adjustment sleeves for sure?
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post #62 of 632 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 10:51 PM
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FYI for anyone who is out of their mind.. This the combo my wife has..

8" Skyjacker Lift.. Which consists of
the 6" Extended radius arms, full rear leaf replacement pack. no blocks or AAL's.
3" Body lift
running 18x39.5x15 Super Swamper Boggers.

I'm just posting this for anyone in the future.. I don't recomend it.. Cause for the price of the kit (around 1,500 bux) you can almost buy the SAS kit..

I only have it this big is cause we bought it the way it sits for only 1,500 bux. :) <but then have since then changed the engine, tranny and a lot of little things.>

Vic - W6VIC
1978 Ranger Bronco XLT 400/C6 with only 33's =(
2001 F250 - 6" SL. 37" tires Goliath
2007 Yamaha R1 Ricochet
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post #63 of 632 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 07:43 PM
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Ok so I was looking at lift kits and have about 400-700 to spend, I am just going to get a 4 inch lift I think. I found the tuff country one http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...4.html#ITEMIMG
Does anyone have any experiences with it? Anyone have any opinions on radius arm drop brackets? I use the stock radius arms for that correct? Thanks for any help anyone can give and yes I searched lol.
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post #64 of 632 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 06:24 AM
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Lightbulb Get a 1 ton CV built costed me $276.00

In case he doesn't want to re-read it all, you do need to @ least have your driveline lengthened by your driveline shop if you go 6 " or more. I had a 1 ton CV built for mine in 2001 because the origional CV size only lasted me about a year. But the 1 ton CV is several yrs.old now. It still works smoooth. Just make sure you use the highest quality CV grease you can get your hands on. And be sure to grease it @ least every oil change. This includes the U-joints and most important Get a grease needle to lubricate the ball and socket between your two upper u-joints. Push the needle between the rubber boot and ball support, then pump grease in until it pushes out of the seal. Thats it!
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post #65 of 632 (permalink) Old 10-22-2005, 10:04 AM
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I can't find an answer anywhere by searching, but i want to do a suspension lift. I want to get some 2-2.5" coils and either 2-3" blocks for the rear. I feel that will be perfect for me seeing its cheap, i get some lift, and im learning to wheel.(need money to move to orlando for college next august) My questions are:


Do i need a drop pitman arm or drop anything for the small lift?
I just replaced my brakelines,(stock length) will they work with only the 2-2.5"?
Do i need shocks for the amount of lift i want to do also?


Sorry i sound like a newb and know nothing about lifting and wheeling. I have installed alot of blocks to lower my buddies s-10s and stuff but now its my turn to go up with my truck. I have been wheeling on stock 31s and stock lift for awhile now and i feel i can go up alittle for cheap. I just ordered crager 15x8 soft 8s in black for the truck. At the up coming swap meet, i plan to also buy some used 33s(once again with the cost issues).


Can i get alittle help guys? Thanks in advance for the people who help me instead of telling me to search more..

87' EB FSB. stock/rebuilt 302 that need some nice parts

2004 yfz450-My race quad that is worth 8x as much as my bronco
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post #66 of 632 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 12:27 AM
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That kit comes with the radius arm brackets; you use them and your old radius arms.

Broncokid
Check out the Tuff County 2" kits at Suspension Connection. Yes, you will need new shocks, as well as a few other parts if you want to do it right. I tried doing mine in pieces, then ended up ordering the kit - I don't suggest going that route.Get the kit!

'96 5.0L XLT
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post #67 of 632 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 06:19 PM
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My 93 has Superlift leveling frt coils,stock lines,pitman arm,etc. Nothing changed at all (even shocks)were ok. Runs Eagle 589 rims 15x8 & 32/11.50s.hasnt rubbed but is street driven with an all terrain tire. Tires with side lugs would rub lwr fender corner and frt bumper black valance.Truck sits level,but some trks sit higher or lower depending on options and engine. I would factor in cost of new shocks,plus alignment is kinda costly first time out because of non standard alignment cams(offset metal bushings in TTBeams) used cause you dont have brkts to drop ALL attachment points like a lift KIT.Only negative side,faster tire wear on tire corners. I would decide on lift first and maybe borrow a wheel/tire for fitment before mounting your choice of tires. Body lift is an option ($100) plus raising bumpers,but wont level trk just raise it by 2 or 3 inches at all corners. But seriously keep looking on here,look at trks and parts they have. Hopes this helps some JC
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post #68 of 632 (permalink) Old 11-22-2005, 11:02 PM
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pulling the stock pitman arm

ok, hopefully this isn't too stupid of a question, I am trying to put together wha ti need for a lift and the know how on doing it. Every install i have looked at has shown the pitman being pulled with air tools. Is it possible to pull without air piower, and if so, what do you use? Thanks for the help. Probably gonna be summer befor ei get this started unless i find someone up here with garage, but I am trying to get my sheeait together before i get things going.
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post #69 of 632 (permalink) Old 11-24-2005, 11:27 AM
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i have an 83 and my body mounts are worn,since body lifts are cheaper i was thinking about going that route. if i just got a 2" would any thing need extended? or even with a 3"? thanks
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post #70 of 632 (permalink) Old 11-24-2005, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugerp89ipsc
ok, hopefully this isn't too stupid of a question, I am trying to put together wha ti need for a lift and the know how on doing it. Every install i have looked at has shown the pitman being pulled with air tools. Is it possible to pull without air piower, and if so, what do you use? Thanks for the help. Probably gonna be summer befor ei get this started unless i find someone up here with garage, but I am trying to get my sheeait together before i get things going.
Go to autozone and rent or buy a pitman arm puller. A few gentle taps of a hammer may be needed to loosen up the arm but I wouldn't hit to hard. The factory recommended torque is in excess of 200 so make sure you have a torque wrench that can make the necessary torque.

I know my limitations, I just don't know when to quit.

- HED P.E.
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post #71 of 632 (permalink) Old 11-24-2005, 06:58 PM
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Talking 4" lift to 6" $150.00 conversion! (NO BODY LIFT)

Tuffcountry 4" Suspention are great. If you want to add a 2" Daystar lift to it go ahead. It is easy to get alignment cause of the chamber bolts. Or you could just order a 6" coil with ur 4" lift. Cause I orginaly had a 4" tuff country lift. But I added a 2" Daystar coil spacer, to make 6" Lift, and 2" rear block. The additional 2" added to my lift including the rear only cost me like 150 dollers. So go with 4" then upgrade to 6" easily!

whats better?The Maine life you can lift your truck to get it to get about anywhere? The city life you lower your truck, and watch out for the pot holes so they won't bend your rims yo!The Maine life you ride on 35s and don't brag.The city 22's are a big thang, so you brag'em up!
JAY-D
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post #72 of 632 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 01:40 PM
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6" lift

If you got a 6" lift and think that the 35s don't look big enough? Get some TSL interco 36" tires they will look much better with no trimming at all!

whats better?The Maine life you can lift your truck to get it to get about anywhere? The city life you lower your truck, and watch out for the pot holes so they won't bend your rims yo!The Maine life you ride on 35s and don't brag.The city 22's are a big thang, so you brag'em up!
JAY-D
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post #73 of 632 (permalink) Old 01-13-2006, 08:44 PM
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Camburg has several "Off the Shelf" 4x4 packages available for "cut & turned" ttb, cutom ttb housing, and coil buckets ranging in price for $1650 to $6800
and also have just the housings for $550 plus cores and custom rad arms.

http://www.camburg.com/ford4x4F150-P4x4.html

AutoFab has a new ExtraWide front package available

http://www.autofab.com/extra_wide_mdl_44.htm

as well as the original 16" travel package.

http://www.autofab.com/16front1.htm

or

http://www.autofab.com/16lift.htm

Baja Concepts and Solo MotorSports are also alternatives for this approach.

ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑβΕ

Last edited by BlueBronco; 01-13-2006 at 08:49 PM.
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post #74 of 632 (permalink) Old 02-13-2006, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCRIMSONK
33's will fit without any lift. You will need to trim, or space out your front bumper though. Also, you may want to get rid of the sway bar if it bothers you enough, and if you don't tow with your bronco.

My 80' bronco has a 3" body lift on it(it was like that when I bought it),but the tires are stock size road tread. I was thinking about getting some 33" super swampers for and maybe some chrome spoke wheels for it. Anyway, I want to be able to tow my boat, but I would like to get a little more articulation out of my front end. Can I remove the sway bar and and still tow my boat? I did not know that the sway bar made a difference it towing.

-rvcam
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http://www.supermotors.net/23872
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post #75 of 632 (permalink) Old 02-13-2006, 08:15 PM
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The rear sway bar would be more important when towing your boat. As far as articulation goes on the ttb, thats like talking about honest politicians. It may help the travel and droop on it.

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post #76 of 632 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 03:35 AM
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Just in case someone else asks what are the biggest tires / height I can achieve from my 86 FSB. I squeezed 39.5 on 20" rims under a 9" suspension and 3" body. Take a peek at my pics for the outcome.

"From way up here,... everyone just looks kinda stupid" Garrett Weaver-Age 5
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post #77 of 632 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 12:28 AM
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cheep lift

i am looking for a wallet saver lift, i have lots of options(u pull it is around the corner) looking for something like a 4 inch lift to get alitle more out of my car. i am not a big fan of body lifts.

thanks
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post #78 of 632 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriswiththe87
i am looking for a wallet saver lift, i have lots of options(u pull it is around the corner) looking for something like a 4 inch lift to get alitle more out of my car. i am not a big fan of body lifts.

thanks
Your killing me...Ok lifts and cheap dont go together with a ttb...so if you want to keep it cheap start searching your "u pull it" for any 80-96 broncos or f-150s...lot of times you can find one with a lift already on it...actually saw a bko with a 4 inch lift at my local pic a part...

Tim

Newest token Jeep owner....

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post #79 of 632 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriswiththe87
i am looking for a wallet saver lift, i have lots of options(u pull it is around the corner) looking for something like a 4 inch lift to get alitle more out of my car. i am not a big fan of body lifts.

thanks
u really need to search and stop asking and start finding out for yourself, i would look em up in a magazine or online, then come on here and research them, any specific questions can be answered but you cant just throw that question out and then someone tell u what to do

go introduce yourself

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post #80 of 632 (permalink) Old 04-21-2006, 12:14 PM
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Okay, I've read this entire sticky (and what a sticky it is!). I have a question to pose. If it's been answered, please just point me in the right direction. I don't really have any big plans to do massive off-roading or wheelin'. I just want to be able to get where I need to go, and sometimes that requires a little off-road driving. I'm looking at a 4" suspension lift, with some 15 x 10.50 MT wheels, and 33 x 12.50 either MTs or ProComps. I was looking at the Tuff Country and Rough Country lifts. I would like to stay away from rear blocks, so could someone tell me the pros/cons of add-a-leaf compared to a rear spring set up? Thanks!
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