C6 Kickdown cable adjustment - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Bronco Info: 1989 Bronco XLT 5.8L 4x4
C6 Kickdown cable adjustment

I've been trying to figure out the right way to adjust the kickdown cable for the C6.

The Haynes manual says:

Kickdown mechanisms - removal, installation and adjustment (C4, C5, and C6 only)

Kickdown cable (later models)

Adjustment


15 Ratchet the cable self-adjusting mechanism to obtain maximum outer conduit length.
16 Insert a .060 feeler gauge between the upper cable conduit body and the cable bracket on the conduit side of the bracket.
17 Set the cable length by opening the throttle to the wide open position. The self adjuster should ratchet as the cable outer conduit shortens in length.
18 Remove the feeler gauge to gain proper cable freeplay.
19 Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

Does anyone understand this???

Normally I have no problem knowing where to put my feeler gauge or how to use my kickdown cable but when it comes to this Bronco I gots a problem.

Haynes of course doesn't label their pictures with part IDs so I'm lost.

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 02:28 PM
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I dont know what the 89s look like but earlier models had a round tube bent to fit and flattened out at both ends for the kickdown. Its not an exact thing. When the throttle gets almost to full the kickdown should engage. If the truck feels like it needs to kickdown, then bend it so it engages sooner. Even if it is way off it wont necessarily harm anything, it will just delay the shifts until you run out of RPMs. Play with it til you are happy with it.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 02:50 PM
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I believe you are asking about a FI motor not a carbed motor? two completely different type of cables/rods.

Tim

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Redwagon View Post
I believe you are asking about a FI motor not a carbed motor? two completely different type of cables/rods.
Yes. It is a fuel injected motor and has the cable not the rod. I'm just not getting the part about the feeler gauge.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 09:16 PM
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I wouldn't even bother with the feeler gauge. Basically the throttle body should start pulling on the kickdown cable just before full throttle. You want full movement on the kickdown cable while not having it limit the full travel of the throttle body butterflies.

The only thing it affects is having the transmission downshift immediately when you stomp on the throttle. The kickdown cable isn't even necessary for normal operation.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dustball View Post
I wouldn't even bother with the feeler gauge. Basically the throttle body should start pulling on the kickdown cable just before full throttle. You want full movement on the kickdown cable while not having it limit the full travel of the throttle body butterflies.

The only thing it affects is having the transmission downshift immediately when you stomp on the throttle. The kickdown cable isn't even necessary for normal operation.
Thanks Dustball. This helps a lot. I had tried to adjust it based on how people were adjusting TV cables. This IS NOT the way to do it based on what you say. It's almost 180 deg. opposite. I guess this is why it was down shifting erratically all the time for no reason.

This is all starting to become clear to me now. I'll give it a try tonight.

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