How do I Bypass tailgate safety switch? - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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How do I Bypass tailgate safety switch?

Well my tailgate stopped working on me today. I have done some reading here to trace down the problem but am not having any luck. I am able to make the window go up and down with direct current running to the motor. I have tried all of the suggestions: pressing against left corner of tailgate etc. with no luck.
So how do I bypass the safety switch? Many people have said that they have done this but I could not find any write ups on it.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 06:02 PM
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There's two wires leading to it- splice the two wires together.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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I figured that is how you bypass it but wasn't sure. So now that I have bypassed it but still can't get the tailgate motor to work when using my front or rear switch than am I now looking for a bad ground somewhere?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 08:36 AM
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all that information miesk5. I will definitely try this out and let you know what I find.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 11:58 AM
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You could do like what the po of my truck did, and take a grinder to the tailgate and cut out the lattch, then run speaker wire to the motor from a set of toggle switches lol.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:35 PM
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open the back panel inside...lay on your back get a good flashlight, locate safety switch(in tailgate on drivers side next to latch, insulated/tape wrapped with a plug end). pull plug carefully...insert ends of jumper wire into each prong of plug end. test tailgate switch and dash switch. if all is good...wrap plug and jumper with electrical tape and tuck away safely. may as well lube all hardware up with silicone spray...and spray rubber window track too. re-install tailgate panel and yer good to go.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 12:11 AM
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There's no need to bypass the interlock switch - just permanently install a 12V light across it, and mount the light on the top edge of the t/g inside so it's visible to the driver (in the RV mirror) or when standing at the t/g using the key switch. If the light comes on, the latch isn't fully closed. I haven't tracked down a particular light to use on mine yet, but probably a simple panel-mount incandescent (no LED).

If the light doesn't come on when the switches DON'T work, then the problem isn't related to the interlock switch.

In your case, I suspect a bad dash switch. Pull the L taillight and pierce the heavy LB/Bk wire with a grounded 12V test light to make sure you have power. The green screw for the defrost grid is a good ground. Then check the 2 heavy purple wires (one at a time, of course) while operating the t/g switch in both directions for each wire. If the light comes on, the dash switch for the OTHER direction (from what you're doing with the key switch) is bad. If it lights on both wires, the whole dash switch is bad, or it isn't grounded.

If it doesn't light on either wire, AND the glass doesn't move, the t/g switches are bad, or there's a wiring fault (probably in the t/g jamb where the wires flex).
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 12:37 AM
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Just a heads up. My rear window went out with the window half-way up which made it hard to see inside with the tail gate up. Instead of doing the wiring bit to by-pass the safety lock I simply reached inside and grabbed each rod on both sides of the handle that opens the tail gate, you know how those cheap tail gate handles on the new trucks will break some times so that the only way to open it is to use yours fingers and squeeze those little rods together, same concept but just reaching inside. I'm not quite sure how else to explain it but when I did that tail gate opened just fine. I did it several times untill I got the motor replaced. Stopped me from having to mess with wires, which no matter how simple I always mess an electrical job up.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Istandbyford4ever View Post
Just a heads up. My rear window went out with the window half-way up which made it hard to see inside with the tail gate up. Instead of doing the wiring bit to by-pass the safety lock I simply reached inside and grabbed each rod on both sides of the handle that opens the tail gate, you know how those cheap tail gate handles on the new trucks will break some times so that the only way to open it is to use yours fingers and squeeze those little rods together, same concept but just reaching inside. I'm not quite sure how else to explain it but when I did that tail gate opened just fine. I did it several times untill I got the motor replaced. Stopped me from having to mess with wires, which no matter how simple I always mess an electrical job up.
if the window is all the way up or down this will not work. and where does the motor ground at I have a red and yellow wire coming off the motor I aume ones up and the others down but cannot find the motor ground

94 eddie bauer 351w
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 94orangepeel View Post
...where does the motor ground at I have a red and yellow wire coming off the motor I aume ones up and the others down but cannot find the motor ground
Take JUST a few extra seconds to proofread & correct your posts - making it easier for us to unnerstan also makes it more likely that you'll get useful replies. Punctuation is free - use all you need; they'll make more.

Click my black Bronco in my signature & read all the captions in the Tailgate Tech album. The t/g motor grounds beside the e-brake pedal on some years. Either motor wire can be grounded, depending on which direction it needs to run. You're thinking of the way GM builds 2-direction motors. Ford uses more efficient (& cheaper) motors in a polarity-reversing circuit.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 08:55 PM
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You might also want to unwrap the wire bundle where it goes from the tailgate into the quarter panel. This takes a lot of abuse and I had one wire break in this area.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 08:57 PM
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Do you have a cordless 12v drill?

Use little jumpers from the battery to the motor leads and hot wire it. If that does not work, your motor is bad

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:10 PM
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rear window fix

OK, I had to bypass the safety switch for my back glass to work, what is the "proper" fix to get the safety switch to work?
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:17 PM
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what's the proper fix to get the safety switch to work, new latch, adjusting the latchpost, or.......?
sorry for 2 posts, not used to the thread settings.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:24 PM
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The reason you have to post in old threads is to get you to READ them. Look at post #11.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-14-2015, 03:30 PM
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tailgate safety switch picture

can someone post another picture of the tailgate safety switch if available? This is my first time posting so be patient with me if it's posted somewhere else I have a 94 Bronco with the window stuck down, trying to bypass switch. Trouble shooting to see if motor is bad or not. Thanks
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-14-2015, 04:54 PM
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Here ya go -

1996 Ford Bronco Misc. Pictures picture | SuperMotors.net


1996 Ford Bronco Misc. Pictures picture | SuperMotors.net

Pull the connector off the white switch and jumper the two contacts to bypass the switch. Remember that you will break the window if it is not fully lowered when opening and closing the tailgate.

"The simplest solution is usually the best solution" - Occam's Razor

"The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them." - Albert Einstein
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