Do a quick fuel test at the rail using the "schrader valve" on the rail towards the front, it looks like a tire valve stem and just press the valve in the center and see if any fuel comes out indicating you have some fuel at the rail but a fuel pressure gauge testing the FPR = fuel pressure regulator on top of the rail towards the back drivers side will tell exactly what PSI and IIRC it should be 37-40 psi engine off cranking and running...look for cracks in the plastic vaccum lines and if so you can "bridge" it with a small rubber vaccum hose with tie -wraps at end end for a good seal.
The sending unit/fuel pump in the tank could also be an issue if it's the original one, old or dirty fuel filters may only "slow" fuel delivery at best but can't hurt to change if it's been a while....
In most instances when driving and the engine stalls, dies etc.....my first instinct would be the TFI = thick film integrated , ignition module located directly on the distributor or a "remote" located igntion module and have it tested "several" times with a passing grade otherwise replace it.
It seems odd there were no "fault" codes indicated initially so I would drive it around until it reaches normal operating temp and then perform KOEO = key on engine off and KOER = key on engine running and then see what elec/electronic fault codes show up....FYI there are no fault codes for FRP issues, it's vaccum only.
For IAC= idle air control and TPS = throttle position sensor AND ECT= engine cooling temp sensor all of which are "fuel managers" at cold start and normal operation ~ check the Haynes Manual for back probe tests if necessary to test for voltage/ohms resistance etc.
Check MAP or MAF sensor, culprits that affect performance as well.
Good Luck ~