another e4od that wont shift into 3rd/4th after being sank - FSB Forums
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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Red face another e4od that wont shift into 3rd/4th after being sank

Okay so ive been reading for hours on this site and i havent found anything conclusive. I sank my 93 bronco(5.8 E4OD) up to the doors in water and it took about 2 hours to get it out, shortly after I got out tried to drive and noticed it was slipping and wouldnt engage 3rd or overdrive so i babied it the 2 miles back to my house and parked it. I dropped the tranny pan, blew out all the lines, 2 coolers, replaced my inline filter and internal filter and gasket and put it all back together. I warmed up the truck and dumped in around 3 gallons of fluid, it was maybe 1/2 quart low but completely warmed up. so i figured id go for a ride around the block. Truck engages reverse 1st and 2nd strong enough to spin the tires but has no desire to shift into 3rd or everdrive at all. I have no idea what to look for in these problems, i read it could be improper voltage coming from the alternator causing the ecm to send out improper current to the shift solenoids, I have no clue, I have 3000 into my truck and i dont wanna start tearing things apart without having something to check, engine runs fine, no check engine light, OD light does not flash or have any effect on the truck....im at a loss guys, any ideas
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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 12:03 AM
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I recall our friend miesk5 posting about water intrusion issues with the MLPS. I did a search for you on his site.

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1093
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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BroncoJoe19 View Post
I recall our friend miesk5 posting about water intrusion issues with the MLPS. I did a search for you on his site.

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1093

Thanks fellow north jersian not to sound like a total idiot but is this what i should be looking at?>>>> http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/950212.pdf
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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 02:23 AM
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here's how to replace the MLPS

1994 Bronco E4OD MLPS Replacement
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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RebelPride2009 View Post
Thanks fellow north jersian not to sound like a total idiot but is this what i should be looking at?>>>> http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/950212.pdf
Yes :)

Were you playing near home when you sank her?
I'm thinking of getting rid of mine because I don't have anywhere near home to play with her.
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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BroncoJoe19 View Post
Yes :)

Were you playing near home when you sank her?
I'm thinking of getting rid of mine because I don't have anywhere near home to play with her.
yeah 2 miles down the road from me is burnt meadow road, connects westmilford and ringwood and is an un maintained road with trails for trucks all over it. Its alot of fun till you do what i did



took 2 trucks to get me out

so what you guys are saying if i replace that MLPS or neutral safety switch it should shift correctly? It makes sense because thats on the drivers side and the drivers side sank pretty bad, had some water in the cab
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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 12:08 PM
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yo,
Clean the MLPS connector first.
Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/40055-e4od-mlp-adjustment.html


I don't have a 93 wiring diagram so, see & compare;
Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM
Source: by Mikey350 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/874093
Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor Wiring Diagram in 92 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Chilton http://content.chiltonsonline.com/co...s/88286w26.pdf

& Solenoid Body Connector

Seating; "...Completely seat solenoid body connector into solenoid body assembly receptacle by pushing on the top of the connector. [b]An audible click indicates full contact. Verify connection by pulling on harness..."



NO 2-3 Upshift TSB 98-16-7 in 90-94 Bronco, Econoline, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-53 "...Some vehicles may exhibit a no 2-3 upshift condition. This may be the result of cross-leakage caused by distortion of the control valve body separating plate. Perform diagnosis and, if necessary, replace the control valve body separating plate. Refer to the following Service Pocedure for details. Perform diagnostics as outlined in the appropriate Service Manual. Refer to Figure 1 for the models affected. If condition still exists, remove the control valve body separating plate. Wipe excess oil. Examine the separating plate for deformation in the intermediate band servo area, Figure 2. THE SEPARATING PLATE GASKETS MUST BE REMOVED TO SEE THE DISTORTION. If distorted, replace the separating plate with a new Control Valve Body Separating Plate (F4TZ-7A008-A). Install new Separating Plate Gaskets (F4TZ-7C155-A and F4TZ-7D100-A) and a new Oil Pan Gasket (E9TZ-7A191-A)..." see site for figure

Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net

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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 12:31 PM
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Could be the MLPS clean it and see what happens... if not.. change it and see what happens
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post #9 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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well thanks guys, ill have to try cleaning it and possibly replacing the unit and seeing what happens, im running out of options and money at this point. But this week should be warm so i will have to clean it all up and give it a shot. will keep yall posted
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post #10 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangmata View Post
Alternator.
how would that be causing problems with it shifting? I read in your thread where you had the same issues with your trans the alternator came up a few times. mine puts out around 14v at idle.
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post #11 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 11:51 AM
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yo,

PSOM & Odometer Not Working "..due to Bad diode in the alternator that put a rf signal into the speed sensor line. It turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator that put a rf signal into the speed sensor line. I unplugged the alternator electrical connector and it went away. I am a mechanic by trade and this was on a 2001 superduty that would die when it hit 1100rpm. I was doing my key on engine running selftest when the scanner could not complete it due to excessive vss. So i monitered my vss and when my target rpm was hit the pcm would have the speed limiter kick in and since there was no laod on the engine it would stall. Naturally I started unplugging stuff untill my interferance signal went away..."
Source: by Mr Bell & miesk5 at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/158806-speedo.html

Diode Pattern Waveforms, Bad;

"...This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This particular alternator has a bad rectifier, causing an AC voltage to ride on top of the DC voltage signal. This AC voltage affected the pip and spout signals (Ford primary ignition signals) causing a no code driveability problem. The fix was to replace the alternator.
.....



This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This alternator, like the previous alternator, has a bad rectifier. This is another example of how a bad rectifier can affect the diode pattern. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the lab scope. This is a good example of how an alternator with a bad diode can affect other signals that the ECM looks at. In this case it is an IAC motor. When viewing waveforms that have a lot of hash always look at the alternator diode pattern as a possible cause..."
Source: by omitec.com

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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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post #12 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 12:20 PM
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Reading this thread makes me appreciate my old manual trans and no computerized parts to worry about.
Good Luck with yours RP! I do hope its an inexpensive fix.

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post #13 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 01:48 PM
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id check with wiring first, make sure your vss has a complete path all the way to the pcm.... i just dealt with the same problem and the vss terminal had recessed just barely enough to not make contact inside the connector to the pcm

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If only I could have 6 of his 32 inches!
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post #14 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonhughes2009 View Post
id check with wiring first, make sure your vss has a complete path all the way to the pcm.... i just dealt with the same problem and the vss terminal had recessed just barely enough to not make contact inside the connector to the pcm
yo JASON,
Glad you mentioned that again, bec. Ford does mention Terminal Back-Out as a possible issue in many components' Pin-Point Tests

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my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
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post #15 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Well looks like ill have myself plenty busy today, suppose to hit 50 and today im gonna pull the mlps and a few other things and run some tests. I miss my truck.. and since nobody has given me a good offer to buy it i dont wanna sell it for dirt, id much rather try and fix it. im hoping it is just the mlps or something small because i have nowhere to pull out this transmission and interrogate it.
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post #16 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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does anyone know which wires on the MLPS i should be back probbing to check voltage? im sitting in my truck right now with my laptop and a multi meter. only voltage im getting from 2 wires is 10.46 volts. somebody help me and tell me which wires i should be back probing
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post #17 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelPride2009 View Post
does anyone know which wires on the MLPS i should be back probbing to check voltage? im sitting in my truck right now with my laptop and a multi meter. only voltage im getting from 2 wires is 10.46 volts. somebody help me and tell me which wires i should be back probing
yo Rebel,
Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB

Use straight pins to backprobe, attach meter's clips to each pin - measure bet. Gy/R (Sensor Signal Return) & LB/Y (TR Sensor Signal)

96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
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THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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post #18 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
yo Rebel,
Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB

Use straight pins to backprobe, attach meter's clips to each pin - measure bet. Gy/R (Sensor Signal Return) & LB/Y (TR Sensor Signal)

Okay ill try that, im gonna be picking up a new MLPS tmmw, got too busy in court today to get to the parts store.

Last edited by Ranger429; 02-23-2012 at 07:12 PM.
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post #19 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 07:13 PM
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Thread edited, take it to PM's if it is still nencessary.
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post #20 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 08:54 PM
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I am curious about how you made out today.

Although there has been a bit of discussion about the alternator, you don't have to replace it to check it, just disconnect it to take it out of the picture.

Again... I'm going with the MLP
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