1995 BRONCO 4X4 WONT ENGAGE - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2012, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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1995 BRONCO 4X4 WONT ENGAGE

I HAVE A 1995 XLT FORD BRONCO WITH 118000 MILES ,4 WHEEL DRIVE WAS USED SINCE NEW MAYBE TWICE , I WAS TRYING TO USE IT BUT IT WONT ENGAGE ANY SUGESTION
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2012, 01:32 PM
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Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
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yo D,
Do you have Auto or Manual Locking Hubs?
And do you have a manually shifted transfer case or Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF)?

"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by WarnŽ


Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at FSB

This is by FORD:
Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for 92 & Prior Year Bronco, F Series & Ranger; Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting after 92 & Hub Operation

96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 04:57 PM
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My apologies for a thread resurrect...

I have a 95 XLT 5.8L with auto hubs. Yesterday, I got stuck in a small offraod rut and had to have a passing F250 pulll me out.

Anyway, as I was flailing away in what I thought was 4LO, I noticed that the front axles where turning but the front wheels werent.

Today, while changing my oil, I put the Bronco on jackstands at all four corners, but the vehicle in 4WD and put the shifter in D - rear wheels spun but the front wheels didnt.

Is the fact that my axles spin but the wheels dont an indicator of bad auto hubs? If my transfer case was the problem, then the axles would spin, correct?

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 08:31 PM
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It sounds as if the auto hubs aren't engaging. Its a little late now I know but its good to use 4hi every so often to keep everything working properly.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 09:35 PM
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Time for a manual hub swap!

Quote:
A general rule in modding a vehicle is: Powerful, Reliable, Cheap; You can only pick two, not three.
88 Custom; 4.9; C6; 3.55's; TTB, 8.8; BW1356; Top-Hats; K&N FIPK; 160A 3G, 2G compatible; Flowmaster 40 Series; GT Rollbar; Full Replacement F/R Brush Guards; 2 gal. Viair Air tank/compressor; HornBlasters Shocker XL Train Horns; Full MTX Audio System; Rollin on XD Addicts
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hizootiemizark View Post
It sounds as if the auto hubs aren't engaging. Its a little late now I know but its good to use 4hi every so often to keep everything working properly.
Yeah, they definitely are not engaging. Im just trying to see if its as a result of bad hubs or sometihng else.

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex95 View Post
Time for a manual hub swap!
Yes Sir - now the question is Warn or Mile Marker?

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 12:25 PM
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How much do you plan to use 4wd? Also do you plan to do a lot of hard offroading? If your plans are just to regain 4wd for occasional mild to moderate use you would be a great candidate for the mile marker regular hubs. They are cheaper and have a good warranty from what I read. Also read up as you will likely need to replace your spindle locking nuts when you make the swap and while your in there you should probably replace the inner and outer wheel bearings and clean and repack everything. These front hubs are not the sealed install and forget units that newer vehicles have. They require regular maintenance.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 02:26 PM
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spend it on warn premiums once. be happy later.

Quote:
A general rule in modding a vehicle is: Powerful, Reliable, Cheap; You can only pick two, not three.
88 Custom; 4.9; C6; 3.55's; TTB, 8.8; BW1356; Top-Hats; K&N FIPK; 160A 3G, 2G compatible; Flowmaster 40 Series; GT Rollbar; Full Replacement F/R Brush Guards; 2 gal. Viair Air tank/compressor; HornBlasters Shocker XL Train Horns; Full MTX Audio System; Rollin on XD Addicts
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunrebel View Post
How much do you plan to use 4wd? Also do you plan to do a lot of hard offroading? If your plans are just to regain 4wd for occasional mild to moderate use you would be a great candidate for the mile marker regular hubs. They are cheaper and have a good warranty from what I read. Also read up as you will likely need to replace your spindle locking nuts when you make the swap and while your in there you should probably replace the inner and outer wheel bearings and clean and repack everything. These front hubs are not the sealed install and forget units that newer vehicles have. They require regular maintenance.
Youre right, I rarely use 4WD, but the price difference isnt so extreme that I woludnt just spring for the Warn units anyway. I really like their look. You're right though, regular maintenace is often overlooked.

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex95 View Post
spend it on warn premiums once. be happy later.
Leaning towards that.

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 05:02 PM
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Actually went with the MM Street Masters. I had a coupon for Advance Auto and they dont carry any Warn products. So even with the conversion kit, my price came to about $54 shipped.

Only bacd part is Im going out of town for an extended period aND wont be able to install them for quite a while.

Will report back when I get the install done - although it will be a period of weeks.

Thanks for the input guys.

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 01:39 AM
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Bronco Info: 93 XLT 351w E40D 6" Toyo Mt Stock Motor
Hit the auctalator on the T-Cas with a rubber mallet sometimes they get sticky ( Thats Not how you spell it): Fixed Mine
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coleaclark View Post
Hit the auctalator on the T-Cas with a rubber mallet sometimes they get sticky ( Thats Not how you spell it): Fixed Mine
4wd is engaging fine (I can put the truck up on all corners and see that the front axles are spinning fine) its just that the hubs arent locking.

Thanks,

Eric
95 XLT 5.8L
2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 02:19 PM
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Bronco Info: 93 XLT 351w E40D 6" Toyo Mt Stock Motor
oh sorry about that yesterday was a long day .....
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