E40D fluid and filter change - FSB Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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E40D fluid and filter change

So several months ago I overheated the tranny(E40D) in my bronco and it puked fluid all over my yard. So it's been parked since then. With winter coming I need to get this thing back on the road. I pulled the pan, drained the converter, and blew out the cooler. I did find a bit of clutch material in the pan so I'm going to change the filter. I also would like to add a drain plug to the pan. I know others have done this, but I didn't find any descriptions or pictures of any when I searched. Does any one have any photos they would share of how you installed drain plugs? I think I know how I'm going to do it, but just want to see how others did it. I put up some pictures of the pan next week after I get it finished. Thanks!
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 01:12 AM
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Buy plug kit and install where magnet sits. Should be a dimple there.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 05:07 PM
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Go to NAPA, they have universal pan drain plug kits for like 5 bucks. Its basically a hollow bolt you put in the pan with nylon washers inside and out, and a small drain plug that threads in. Drill a hole and tighten it up. Stupid simple.

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 09:49 PM
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my suggestion would be throw a tranny cooler on it too. mines overheated multiple times and i put one on. inlet line is warm and outlet is nice and cool.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 10:01 PM
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fdtdx18 has a great idea there. I have done the same thing for the same reason and it doesnt get hot now-
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 10:13 PM
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I picked up a oil drain plug that fit my oil drain and a tap with the same size and thread pitch, and a piece of 3/16 steel I had.
Drilled a hole in the steel and taped it.
Drilled a hole in the pan and welded the steel to the pan.


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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 01:10 PM
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looks good, wanna do mine now so i dont get soaked in fluid again?
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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I went with kind of the same idea as Ewgoetz. I just need to leak test it an put some paint on it now. Thanks everyone for the good replies.

http://http://instagr.am/p/RquCOqt1yc/

http://http://instagr.am/p/RquOKwt1yq/


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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Which line is the return line from the cooler? Is it the one towards the front or the rear? I'm guessing it's the rear.


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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 12:22 AM
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that looks good. Nice weld. Also to throw it out there walmart has mercon for $11.68 a gallon. cheapest you can get it anywhere, unless you want to go with merconv.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 01:02 AM
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drain plug looks sweet!
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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Not sure if the first pics showed up.

[/IMG]



Let me know if it works.


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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Never mind I see them. Leak testing today.


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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black92 View Post
Which line is the return line from the cooler? Is it the one towards the front or the rear? I'm guessing it's the rear.


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yo B,
E4OD
Fitting Location; Thread Size; Flow Direction;
Front ¼” Pipe Cooler feed/out
Rear ¼” Pipe Return/in




Item Part Number Description
1 7A095 Transmission Fluid Cooler
2 8005 Radiator
3 7A031 Fluid Cooler Tube
4 7D273 Fluid Tube Connector
5 372223-S101 C-Clip
6 7N291 Transmission Fluid Cooler Line Clip
7 7A030 Fluid Cooler Inlet Tube
8 � Connector (Part of 7000)
9 7000 Automatic Transmission
10 376240-S Clamp
11 N809635-S165A Hose
12 7F113 Inlet Tube
13 7F112 Outlet Tube
A � Tighten to 23-31 Nm
(17-23 Lb-Ft)
B � Tighten to 3.1-4.3 Nm
(27.4-38.0 Lb-In)
C � Tighten to 10-14 Nm
(7-11 Lb-Ft)

see more Cooler Install LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=63

96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you!
That's some good information you have.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Pan is leak free. I ordered a filter clip and I noticed there was an o-ring on the filter and up inside the transition. I guess whoever changed it last time didn't get the old one out. It also appeared that the filter was just laying in the pan. Do you guys recommend using the rubber gasket or a cork gasket? Does one tend to seal better than the other?


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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Got it back together. Everything worked great and is leak free. It sure was a pain to get it filled with one gallon jugs and a small funnel. Would have been better to have a 2ft. hose on the end of the funnel to fit inside the dipstick tube.


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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 08:34 PM
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Drain plug is a bad idea. The only way to correctly change E4OD fluid is flushing through the cooler line.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 08:54 PM
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So why did ford install drain plugs? Even they knew it was needed.
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 01:44 AM
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when you over heated it did it leak from the converter area?Mine did that in july and I thought I just had a front bad seal.I have a 164000 on the trany and was just going to have mine rebulit this spring.or would that be a wast of money.It shifts great just had that leak when we were mooving our camper around after we got up north.
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