How to "Rust Repair" for the 1st Timer - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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How to "Rust Repair" for the 1st Timer

So, I have started the project. 1st on the agenda is the rust repair around the doors. I have never done any rust repair. My father is an old school blacksmith but has never done any repairs on vehicles. Any and all thoughts on how I should go about this would be very appreciated.


Also if anyone can tell me how to post pics to this thread I will include pictures of the work that needs to be done.

Thank you.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 05:17 PM
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Surface rust simply needs to be ground off, treated with a rust converter then primed, sealed and painted. If the rust is rot or bad rust holes the rot needs to be cut out just past the effected area. New metal welded in then grind, treat, prime yadda yadda.

As far as photos you need to open up a supermotors acount or photobucket. I personaly use photobucket. In PB there are simple options to paste link or photo.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 05:17 PM
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you seem to have been around long enough without being mean about it search is your friend here. basic rust repair is cut out the bad weld in the good. look thru the build forums and you will come across some help or youtube and google. as for pics best solution is to set up a supermotors account and link them from there. good luck

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some of the pics.

What gauge sheet metal should i use to repair the holes?

My father thinks we should weld it with a brass rod and an acetylene torch. We do not have access to a welder. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the info on photo bucket. Never tried attaching an image and couldn't find a thread explaining this.











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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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PS. Thankfully this is the only rust on the truck for me to deal with.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:46 PM
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you can't just patch it. all that rust HAS to be completely cut out. you're looking into a SERIOUS undertaking here. that is an extremely high stress area that is prone to failure. search around the site for "rain gutter cracks" and the like.

seriously this isn't a job for a rookie. i'd find a QUALITY shop, or let it rot. and all that rain water has to go somewhere, and if there is rust THAT bad up high on the roof, i can guaran-goddamn-tee you there is cancer under the carpet.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:47 PM
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Id buy a cheap 110v welder and learn to use it. Good thing is its so high that its easy to hide. I wouldnt use a torch, chances are youll warp the metal around it. Then you just opening a can of worms. 18g will do just fine for these repairs. Remember to take your time and get tight fitting filler peices for best results. If the peice you took out had a slight curve to it add a slight curve to the filler going it.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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took all the interior out last week. Not one spot of rust on the floor or anywhere else. It was getting water into the cab because the carpet was moldy and wet but the floor is in great shape. I was surprised by this also.

JB thanks for the info. any thoughts on what i should do with the rain gutters? I was thinking to cut them out and weld the seam. Any thoughts?
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:19 PM
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it wont look right w/o them, like everyone else said, cut off wheel, 18g sheet metal bent to shape, or lots of small pieces, weld on, grind down welds, prime, paint, seal, watch tv (walking dead is on)

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:26 PM
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I know I will get hate. But take that thing to the scrap yard, it's worthless in my opinion.

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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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I wont hate you Defcon but come on now! The rest of the truck is a beautiful peach! 130k original miles and everything else works. I hate that the PO never took care of it but she's mine now. Plus I tried to trade it for an AR or two but my son got crazy on me as I was trying to sell his monster truck. He's 6. I'm in trouble.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:35 PM
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I think my comment comes from the land of no rust. Most broncos in the JY around here are prolly in nicer shape body wise than 40% of the ones on here.
Whatever ya do with it good luck

Oh and for the rain gutters, if you shave them all the way around it will look fine.

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 09:21 PM
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If you do decide to shave the rain gutters- only cut a small amount off at a time, about 2-3" then tack it in place. Next 2-3 and so on. If you cut it all off in one shot the roof will seperate and make the job alot harder. Gutter shaving isnt easy by any means the metal is thin and easy to blow out. Id just repair what you have. What i did on my gutters was repair them, then filled them in with all metal body filler.

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thats a good point and idea. Thanks JB! I have about three or four inches on each side that is separated from the rust. How do I fill the gap? Weld?
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 03:00 AM
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You gotta cut out any signs of rust and patch in a new piece. If you leave any rust behind and try to weld it, it will do nothing but blow out and you will struggle to get it filled in with weld. Now when patching metal in dont try to lay just one constant bead of weld. Tack the new piece in. About one tack every 3/4 around the perimeter and walk away for acouple minutes. Or work on anouther section. When its cool lay a few more tacks then move away till it cools. If you put to much heat to it it will warp and thats no good.

When i do such repairs i like to cut everything bad out and make all my patches at once. This way i can tack and move never putting to much heat into one area at a time. Do not forget to protect your glass from sparks from the grinder and the welder. An spark will melt into the glass and screw it up. After a few rain storms youll have real nice rust streaks down your windows and at that point youll have to replace any damaged glass. This goes for rear veiw mirrors and plastic aswell. 3m makes a realy nice sticky paper that protects it from sparks. Think it called welding paper or protector and can be picked up at any auto supply shop, youll be going there anyway for body filler. You want need alot of filler put yeah youll most likely need it. The more time and care you take fixing this the less likely youll have to redo it in the future.

Good luck and were all here to help along the way.

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 03:18 AM
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Damn, that is scrapyard material around here.

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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:51 AM
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That's in the rain gutter sheetmetal, the roof skin (inner and outer) and the "b" pillar. Plus, it's already been mudded once. No tellin' what's under it all.

You might find new OEM rain gutters, but they are RARE. I squirreled away a set several years ago. You can find new tops too, but they are pricey. I'd look for a donor truck with a good roof and graft it on.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 09:20 AM
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I know I will get hate. But take that thing to the scrap yard, it's worthless in my opinion.
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Damn, that is scrapyard material around here.
X3, I wouldn't even waste my time BUT considering you are doing something you have never tackled before that is a prime candidate for learning on.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 10:01 AM
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Ranger has a good point.

and x4, it's junk with that much damage in such a critical high stress area. you'd be better off welding on a rust free roof.

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 11:49 AM
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I have never seen rust in those areas... I would probably get another truck or replace the whole cab that's not really the kind of rust that you repair it's full on rot
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