ran oil pan dry. pump wont prime - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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ran oil pan dry. pump wont prime

i installed a oil filter relocation kit and a big cooler today plus replaced the pressure sensor. being distracted i forgot to connect a line. strated the engine and all my oil pumped out to the ground . i reconnected the line and put another 5 quarts of oil in it started it and guage wasnt working so after messin with the wire some starting it to test i never got it to work. thinking the new sensor was bad i checked to make sure oil was flowing so i loosened the filter where it would leak. no leak so i took it about half off with a big gap and absolutly no oil is flowing. oil is full. after starting the engine numerous times i think the pump would have primed itself by now. any ideas?


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 07:11 PM
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could have toasted the pump. pull the dizzy and use a drill to turn the pump over till you see oil pressure.

'01 F250, 444ci of straight piped oil burning fun. 4x4, 6 spd, GTP38R noise maker, Stage 2 injektorz. Lotsa fun!


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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 07:15 PM
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Something may be clogged. "To avoid the need for priming, the pump is always mounted low-down, either submerged or around the level of the oil in the sump. A short pick-up pipe with a simple wire-mesh strainer reaches to the bottom of the sump' (not my words). Or possibly not enough oil. A bigger cooler plus the hoses for the remote filter require more oil than the 5 quarts. Possibly with the five qts you just filled the hoses and cooler. Bad ol pump, hard to believe.
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 07:19 PM
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running the engine with no oil is pretty much saying your gonna rebuild it.

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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its gonna be rebuilded soon. jsut not now. well with 5 quarts the dipstick is over. im going to prime through the dizzy when i can get access to a timnig light. i might try and take the hose loose and pouring oil through it to help prime the pump.


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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfish999 View Post
its gonna be rebuilded soon. jsut not now. well with 5 quarts the dipstick is over. im going to prime through the dizzy when i can get access to a timnig light. i might try and take the hose loose and pouring oil through it to help prime the pump.
The pump shouldn't have to be primed. It's not new.

Mark the distributor where the rotor is pointing and pull it. You won't need a timing light if you do so. If you ran it dry, the oil pump probably seized and the pump shaft should be broke. Listen closely once you pull the distributor because you just may hear half of the oil pump shaft drop into the pan. If this is the case, you'll see it once the distributor is pulled and you try to prime it.


You're probably looking at a costly mistake........
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 10:43 PM
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now you done gone a did it.

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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 05:16 AM
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If you think it's a problem with no oil pump prime, the old redneck trick to prime it is to disable the ignition, dump a couple gallons of cheap wallyworld oil in the crankcase and crank it until you get pressure then drain the extra oil. This makes sure the pump is submerged in oil. Beats pulling the pan to get some grease in the pump. If it's really dry the distributor trick won't work.
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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alright i got it figuered out and it wasnt my fualt this time!!! the company who made the filter relocation kit labeled IN and OUT backwards on the block adapter. you wouldnt think this would make a difference but because the oil filter has a backflow preventer in it, it was was stopping the filter from flowing. since the filter flows from the outside in, when it was reveresed it tried to flow inside out so when i had the filter half off this is why no oil was present.

i did pull the dizzy and found everything was good. pump had resistance, teesh wernt worn, pump was primed after all. then is when i took the filter all the way off and used the drill to realizr there was pressure. got everything all good now. oil pressure is good again. hopefully running with no oil didnt cause too much wear.

notice the outside is labeled IN even tho the oil flows out



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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 09:20 PM
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oil flows from the outside of the filter into the center and out the center into the hole it is screwed onto the block with.

By looking at that picture, the hose labeled IN comes from your engine and the one labeled out is the filtered oil.

I don't see how they have something labeled wrong.

'01 F250, 444ci of straight piped oil burning fun. 4x4, 6 spd, GTP38R noise maker, Stage 2 injektorz. Lotsa fun!


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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 09:59 PM
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Swap the hoses

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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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one like me would assume when it says IN, it means the flow goes to there, not from. since the flow is comming out where it says IN that to me is wrong. when wiring say a TV, you have Video/Audio IN and OUT. OUT is a source and IN recieves. why woulkd you label something IN if its a source?

mikey i did swap the hoses but its really a PITA to do.


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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfish999 View Post
one like me would assume when it says IN, it means the flow goes to there, not from. since the flow is comming out where it says IN that to me is wrong. when wiring say a TV, you have Video/Audio IN and OUT. OUT is a source and IN recieves. why woulkd you label something IN if its a source?

mikey i did swap the hoses but its really a PITA to do.
your making my head hurt.

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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 11:51 PM
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in is the unfiltered oil from the engine

out is the filtered oil which is sent out to all the moving parts in the engine.

it is plain and simply put. I am not understanding how you have this all switched around. To me that part is labeled correctly, you installed it wrong.

'01 F250, 444ci of straight piped oil burning fun. 4x4, 6 spd, GTP38R noise maker, Stage 2 injektorz. Lotsa fun!


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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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if this was connecting to the filter then i would say yes. but this is going to the block. but im going to end this before i make you think. we all know what happened when you think


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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 12:14 AM
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 09:17 AM
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your making my head hurt.
X2
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 09:35 AM
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Jopes is correct. It is labelled correctly.

IN = In to the oil filter
OUT = Out of the oil filter

I wouldn't be running the engine until I understood this. I am not trying to be rude, I just don't see any reason to starve your engine of oil.

What oil filter are you using?
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 10:57 AM
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you don't lose prime on the pump.

the lines may be void until they are filled. you can fill them by cranking the engine with the hi tension coil disconnected.

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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 11:40 AM
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So you made a mistake no biggy. The part seems correctly labeled to me. But i have misunderstood easier things before. Hopefully the engine wasn't running without oil... I don't think you'd hurt the engine by cranking it over dry because of the residual oil. But running it dry? That hurts me! Haha


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