Stronger interior door handles? - FSB Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
I did done broke it
 
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Bronco Info: '89 Bronco XLT. Front clip swap. 351 w/ C6. 4" lift. 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
Stronger interior door handles?

So when I first got my Bronco it didn't have a drivers side interior door handle. Got home and ordered a cheapo one off ebay. It felt flimsy and bent alot when I'd open the door but whatever I had it might as well use. Would probably be more to ship it back anyhow. So it lasted for a month or so before snapping the other day. Didn't bug me because as I said it was a cheapo off ebay and I kind of expected. But then I went and got a Doorman from Advance and that snapped on the second day! What the hell? Is there some better one that I can get somewhere?

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 12:00 AM
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Bronco Info: F150 ext cab, 5.8 auto/ 96 bronco 5.8 MAF with E4ohishitmyself pushy button 4x4
what are you doing with your door handles is what i want to know
the graveyard has em for cheaper then 10 bucks their fine as far as i know

"The definiton of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results." Albert Einstein
obviously he shouldve used a bigger hammer

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 12:26 AM
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The earlier metal handles are a diect fit and they help up better for me.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 12:36 AM
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Bronco Info: 94 C150 prerunner 351/zf/maf. To many mods to list.
I always bought replacements strait from ford parts counter. Figure they lasted 15 years before breaking.

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Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 01:57 AM
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FIRST: try fixing the problem. Obviously, the latch is binding, causing extra force to be necessary on the handle. Align the door. Clean & lube the latch. Repair the inside handle's mounting point on the door skin. Adjust the linkage.

THEN replace the handle.

I hate chrome, so I had some old metal ones powdercoated black to look like the newer plastic ones.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
I did done broke it
 
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Bronco Info: '89 Bronco XLT. Front clip swap. 351 w/ C6. 4" lift. 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
What year Broncos had the metal ones? 70s and early 80s?

And Steve the door opens and closes fine. No resistance, not sagging

Surviving is winning. Everything else is bullshit. Whatever it takes, kid. Survive.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
FIRST: try fixing the problem. Repair the inside handle's mounting point on the door skin. Adjust the linkage.

THEN replace the handle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InsanePyro View Post
And Steve the door opens and closes fine. No resistance, not sagging
It may open and close fine, but the skin is where the trouble starts. I repaired mine. I posted my fix for this problem in this thread.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 01:09 PM
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yo

Door Handle, Inside Left 1980-96
Item #34370 - New
1980-96 Ford Bronco
1980-97 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350
Drivers Side Chrome

Chrome metal,will also fit 1987-96

Our Price: $8.00
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...t-1980-96.html

Inside Door Handle, Right 1980-96
Item #34368 - New
1980-96 Ford Bronco
1980-97 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350
Passenger Side Chrome

Chrome metal,will also fit 1987-96

Our Price: $8.00
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...t-1980-96.html

96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 05:04 PM
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Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
A few weeks ago a I noticed a slight "catch" to the driver's inside door
handle. If it were to be allowed to get worse I could see where the handle
could get broken. ??

Anyway, it was just the "sliding link" part of the inside door handle
mechanism, it was as if it was past-center and trying to bind up.

But since I was already in process of stiffing-up the floppy inner door skin
I figured out a fix for the new problem at the same time. The easy way is
to just move the whole mechanism toward the front/hinges, there's room
in the holes.

----------------------------------------------

Sackman, I started a thread on FTE -asking- about bracing the inner door
skin but it went no where. :/ So I figured out how to do it myself and
posted the results and got no comments. LOL :) It shot down all the ideas
posted, none of which showed an understanding of what I was complaining
about to start with.

Anyway, here it is copy and pasted...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Popped riveted (like I meant business;) a piece of 1/2" square pipe inside
the door shell...


Lined it up with the extra screws I'd put in to hold up the flimsy pocket so
now they actually have some "real metal" to screw into...

Check out those two extra screws in the carpet they made a big difference
in how sloppy the pocket is and have another screw in the front-end too.

Also added a couple more braces...


Those felt like they added strength to the door skin but wasn't so sure until
after I worked on the passenger door and installed those first! LOL :)

---------------------------------------

And fixed the squirrelly feeling door handles too, while I was at it...



It now sounds nice and solid like my '75 150's doors.
And the door handles feel like they're actually screwed down to something.

{Sackman, the nut under the "9.8 bolt" there has got a large diameter
Belleville washer on it, so acts-like the steel plate you added to yours}
{but it wasn't enough to suit me :/ the added little bolt with the head
filed down was what really made it stop wiggling on the sheet metal}

{the braces made the whole sheet of metal feel more solid so it's a
double whammy LOL xD }

{the little bolt with the head filed down is a 3/8" headed, grade-8,
1/4"-28 self tapping bolt I just happen to have two of, but i drilled
1/4"+ holes for them to slide into in both the mechanism and the
door skin ;} {a tapered-reamer makes the holes nice and round}

{the little machine screw at the rear is a 10-32 and the tab at the
rear of the mechanism is tapped 10-32 and also added a nut behind,
I'm figuring on replacing those with grade-8, button-head Allen
screws someday ??}

----------------------

Now onto the flimsily-held-on plastic door panels! :)

Thinking about jack-nuts and screws along with filling their empty "hook
pockets" in the door panels' Christmas tree sockets so the jack-nuts'
machine screws won't smash the crap out of 'em. ;)

The door panels are glue-able plastic so there's lots of ways to go there. :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- Jack nuts are like "moly-bolts" for sheet-rock but're for sheet metal...


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"It now sounds nice and solid like my '75 150's doors." -Alvin
Believe it? LOL :)
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 06:22 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 123
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco XLT 351W, ignition upgrade and some interior mods.
My drivers side door handle has been feeling weird lately and somtimes it takes 2 pulls to get the door open. The first seems to 1/2 unlatch it and the second time gets it open. I kept meaning to get in there and see what was causing that.....then it broke. Now I have to get a new handle and figure it out. Alvin's post gave me some good ideas while I'm in there. Thanks

I'm never down.....I'm either up or I'm getting up!
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
I did done broke it
 
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Bronco Info: '89 Bronco XLT. Front clip swap. 351 w/ C6. 4" lift. 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
Chrome metal,will also fit 1987-96
AWESOME

Thanks

Surviving is winning. Everything else is bullshit. Whatever it takes, kid. Survive.

Center your signatures you goddamn Neanderthals
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