Loss of ALL power but only when I turn the key - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Loss of ALL power but only when I turn the key

I'm getting the feeling that I am on this sight a little too much, but I'm getting my Bronco slowly up and running . Anyway the problem for this week is a loss of power. I have a semi new battery and it seems to have power. I was going to hook up some off road lights when this all started but anyway heres what happens. With nothing connected to the battery except for the ignition power wire (no lights, no amps, speakers, sterio). I get in and I turn the key forward and all the lights on my dash come on the door starts to chime(I have the door open) then when I continue to turn the key to start cranking the engine, it all just cuts out. The lights on the dash go out the dome light goes out everything goes out. I have replaced my starter about a year ago and when that was dead I would turn the key and hear a single click and that is all but that was the starter, but now i dont even get the click so its like even the starter gets no power. I'm not sure what is going on and need this fixed asap. Everyone on this site is great at giving me great info so I want to thank everyone in advance for all your help.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 02:49 AM
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could be the starter switch. Turn the key to the run position and short the two large nuts on the starter solanoid on the fender with a long screw driver or similar tools WITH a plastic handle.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 03:31 AM
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your battery seems to or does have power? do yourself a favor and go out to harbor freight and get one of their 2.99 multimeter. does voltage, amperage, and resistance and is a great tool for any technician.

check the ACTUAL voltage of your battery, check all your fuses, report back. although in the back of my brain I'm leading towards faulty ignition switch.

also, did you put any kind of circuit protection in the wiring to the lights? disconnect the lights and see if the problem is still present.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:26 AM
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Sounds like a bad connection- it's loosing it when a load is applied. Check the battery cables and all of their ends- especially the ground(s). You could also have a bad cell in that "semi new" battery.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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could it be possible that the battery is just toast. I have all of my subs and amps hooked up to it and the battery is four years old now. I dont do stuff like run the subs with the engine off but still. I also have fuses mid wire on all of the lights, and everything is disconnected now and it still wont work. Someone said the ignition switch but would that cause all of the power to go out? if so how is that replaced.....or actually ill just search it.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by youngkidoldbronco View Post
With nothing connected to the battery except for the ignition power wire...
What do you mean? Aren't you using the stock battery cables? Or are you connecting a bunch of individual wires to the battery positive? This is how it should look - if yours is different, post pics:

If your battery cable terminals aren't original, or if they appear dirty or damaged in any way, click this & read all the captions:

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 09:04 PM
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Seen this happen a bunch of time. Bad battery connection or cables.

Disconnect both battery cables, inspect them, clean them, clean the terminals, look for a damaged cable.

Basically, only a little bit of power is getting our of your battery. Enough to power dash lights and such but when you throw the starter into the mix, the shitty connection can't supply enough power.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 10:05 PM
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My bet is the battery. Has enough reserve to power a few dash lights but when it goes for crank it kills the battery. Dead Cell or two will kill it to not even make the Solenoid click. Get a Jump and see if it will start or turn over.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 11:14 PM
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I've also seen this with bad cables. You can test it by measuring the voltage across the two battery posts and then the positive post to an engine/frame ground - when it is acting up. It it's a bad cable you should get good voltage across the posts, but a different # from the ground to the positive post.
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