need to move radius arm bracket slightly - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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need to move radius arm bracket slightly

so ive had these procomp extended radius arms installed for awhile now. i installed the bracket back the distance the instructions online say (i think 15" IIRC) but i htink that was too far. my wheels have always been looking like there too far back in the fenders and its really annoying to me. i need an easy way to move the wheels up an inch or 2. dont really want to drill all new holes and make the frame any weaker than it is. dont think theres enough threadsfor a spacer but theres too many threads for an extension. any ideas?


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:25 PM
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Heck, how do your axles line up with their pivot points? :/

I don't see anything wrong with well made extensions or drilling more holes.

YMMV? :)

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:32 PM
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you don't have much option. make an extension, or drill more holes. if you're waiting for a magic fairy to come along and create another option or move them, you're sadly mistaken.

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New nuts are in the plan.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:38 PM
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Post a picture please that might help us see the issue? Sounds like you may be plug welding old holes (a couple holes aren't going to break the frame) and redrilling as much as you dont want too. I welded some 1'' stitch welds and bolted all aftermaket lift stuff (especially if riveted)after a bad experience with cracking my crossmember.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:54 PM
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Im with fox. Weld the holes shut and redrill. I know you dont have a welder but id hit your buddy up. Use a flat piece of copper on the backside of the hole when you weld. this will keep you from having to grind on the inside of the frame and make life alittle easier.

I went with 14.5" myself. And then foundout theres a spacer for the post that will move me anouther 5/8 forward. The spacer is a factory rancho thing that didnt come with my used arms.

It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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this is when i first lifted the front. the rear only had 2" block at the time

heres a more recent picture i took a few days ago


i guess ill have to do that. maby ill get alittle plate steel and bolt it in place. i jsut dont want to swisscheese my frame and weaken it any worse considering how hard i am to it. the holes are already 1/2 and some are 5/8 cause thats all i had with me when i put them on. i guess if i push it further forwarward enough that it might not weaken it too bad. but my tires already destroyed alot of things due to this problem. my AC box now has no bottom on the passenger side and my fuse box and wiring harnes were damaged on the driver side


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 09:22 PM
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You Definately should inspect all the other brackets . I wonder if your seats are ready to pull through the floor ? Looks like its being worked hard going for that win
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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mostly everything is fine. it is beatin on very hard. manly the only damage is the front clip from somethnig unrelated. but its had the problem since i installed it


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 10:42 AM
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mine is very similar to yours. I did locate some of those so called spacers. I may go in a double them up as i have 2 sets now. i still have over an inch of thread so i dont think there would be an issue. naturally moving the brackets forward would be the best solution. I would measure off of the original (stock) bracket holes so you are sure to get things lined up properly.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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what kind of arms are yours? i have almost no threads really for a spacer. have about a half inch of threads left and thats jsut enough to get the nut started when installing. im almost thinknig of getting hiem joints and a coupling to go on the threads make new mounts be be done with it. i did get a nice stick welder today but i still ahve to learn and get a plug for it


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kemicalburns View Post
I would measure off of the original (stock) bracket holes so
you are sure to get things lined up {the same as before}.
x2 :)

That's how I would've done it to start with tho. :/

If the instructions told me a different number...
I'd'a been on that friggin' phone like-right-now! LOL :)

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 03:12 PM
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I wouldn't be that worried about drilling a couple of extra holes in the frame. Seriously doubt it would compromise things that much.

After doing my SAS, I've always regretted not have located the axle a little farther forward. but that's water under the bridge..I wound up trimming my fenders b/c the 37's were rubbing bad...


In my opinion, if you're just beating on it, save yourself the headache and trim those fenders. they look like they've seen better days anyway.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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it will eventually get new probably glass fenders. idk when that will be but i the fenders are is horrible shape.

the arms and lift i bought used from Bronconut. i looked online for the instructions which i could only find on summitracing. they do say 15" so thats what i did. plus the arms he sent had his old brackets on them which were notched to clear a specific bolt so it had to go there.


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 03:43 PM
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I have the procomp arms as well. wonder if your bushings are on properly if you only have that much thread available. doesnt seem right.

For Sale - 94 XLT 357/E4OD Trans-go stage II
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 03:58 PM
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Here's mine with Pro Comp extended arms. Your definitely look further back.


1992 F150 Flareside XLT, 5.8 351W, E4OD, 4WD, Manual BW1356, 3.55 gearing, 4" Pro-Comp suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 05:02 PM
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yeah the directions were wrong I did the same thing with my procomps. But mine did not look as bad as yours. I couldn't find any good side shots of mine when I did but this one. you can see the shocks leaning forward in the pic.



here it is fixed i can't remember the measurements but could get them if needed.


77 Scout SSII 460 c6/np205 Dana 60/14blt H2 wheels 36 Irok radials
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-06-2013, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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tonight i started trying to move the brackets up. i measured they there about 2-3" too far back. got it all drilled on 1 side but i couldnt get it in position. the radius arm wont pivot enouhg of the axle beam to allow it. it actually wont piviot enough to let me move it forward almost at all. i loosened the 2 bolts holding it on and it still didnt pivot so i took the radius arm off and started grinding but it didnt help. guess im dead in hte water with it where it is


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 01:11 AM
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Mine are pro comps also and I had enough threads barely to start the nutz. My tires are centered in the wheel well. Look for a mig welder..dont stick it!!
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 02:05 AM
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Why you gotta do that to a '96? Couldn't you have found an '81 or something to beat the shit out of?

Anyway...
Don't use the (BEATEN & probably shifted) body as any kind of reference for the suspension. Park on a flat surface and sight down each front tire to make sure they're pointed straight ahead (on average). Then measure the wheelbase to the center of each hub, or to corresponding locations on each rim. It should be 104 11/16". If you have to redrill the frame to move the RA brackets, try to follow the instructions in this caption:



The RAs are keyed to the brackets bolted to the front of each axle tube (where the front shocks go, even if the bracket doesn't have that stud), so that's probably why you couldn't swivel the RA even after loosening its bolts. You may have to bend, reduce, or remove the key to allow the RAs to swing.

Once you have the brackets loose from the frame, I'd use vise-grips &/or C-clamps to hold them on while using a sledge hammer to carefully position each axle tube. Measure several times before drilling again.

I'm not a great welder, but I wouldn't use any metal plate to back up a plug weld. Something nonmetallic (like a brick) won't start or carry the arc.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
I'm not a great welder, but I wouldn't use any metal plate to back up a plug weld. Something nonmetallic (like a brick) won't start or carry the arc.
Brass or copper is what is normally used to back up fill welds in steel. Those two will not stick when you electrically weld with them as a backer. Smiggey just had to repair some backing plates on his dad's D60 rear drums. He used a fired 20MM casing as his backer. One of these days I would like to fill weld the unused holes in my frame to have a clean slate to work with.
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