Originally Posted by broncobuster4X4
you are an inspiration to everyone with your wisdom. how about instead of posting a smart ass response maybe you can be a little more useful and answer some of the questions posed in my post. if not, don't reply at all
i was unclear in my first post. the original 15in of vacuum was the reading after being timed with a timing light. while at school, i did not have a timing light and timed by vacuum to get the 21 in reading. why if the standards are between 18 and 22 inches, would my reading be 15.
Here's some wisdom for you...
Don't be a smartass to the people that you ask for help. They may just know more than you do.
I did answer your question
My original reply was completely accurate, but apparently you just don't understand that, along with not understanding how to time a vehicle correctly. There is no
accurate way to time an engine with only a vacuum gauge; a few degrees can make a big difference. If you don't have a timing light, don't screw with it until you do. Get a timing light, follow the instructions on the VECI label under the hood, and time the vehicle the way that it's supposed to be timed.
That was my advice.
I don't know what your college instructors are telling you, but I always had my
students set timing by factory specs, with a timing light
, on a stock motor. I won't confuse you with how to time a non-stock motor...
Now, if, when you have the vehicle set to the proper timing-- which includes the idle speed being set correctly, and the vehicle being fully warmed up (as it also says on the VECI label)-- if it still isn't running properly, then you need to look elsewhere.
*What's your idle RPM?
*What's you fuel pressure @ idle and under load?
*What's your coolant temp?
*What are your vacuum reading @ idle, snap throttle, and under load (this includes needle action as well as reading) with the timing set to factory specs with a timing light?
*What are the condition of your air filter, throttle body and IAC motor. Did you bother to clean them? Did you screw with the throttle plate settings like you aren't supposed to? With the vehicle shutting off, I'd look at this long and hard.
*What's your electrical system doing?
*What's the condition of your primary and secondary ignition- did you check spark voltage? Do you have new parts- plugs, wires, etc, etc? Are your plug gaps correct? What do the plugs look like... if you know how to read a plug... Did you check resistance of the wires? Coil resistance?
*Was the motor even assembled correctly? Does it have vacuum leaks? What's your compression readings? Are the cam and pistons stock (duration, lift, compression...)?
*Have you thought to check for codes?
*Have you looked at any sensor readings to see what information the computer is seeing?
*How does it run? Rough? Smooth? Does it miss at all?
*Have you checked your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge to see what's wrong there?
If you set it correctly with a timing light and it only has a vacuum reading of 15, then something is very wrong. Set the timing to factory specs and then see what the other
You give me almost no information, tell me how you did it wrong
, and then give me $h!t for telling you to do it the right way.
And while I'm at it:
...a new engine will get stronger as miles are put on it and as the rings seat.
That's old-school thinking. Modern rings will seat almost immediately. If somebody fires up a new motor and it smokes or runs poorly, "wait for the rings to seat" is BS used to distract from what he/she did wrong.
That motor is 6 months old; there should be no issues from the build, if it was done correctly.