I6 rering job - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I6 rering job

Hey everybody....got another Bronco for a song and a dance....almost literally and its got some blow back. The carb that was on it was dumping gas (out of the vent tube even) and probably ruined the rings. I was wondering about starting with a rering job and head job on it and going form there in small steps. Any advice on good rings? valves? order I should do this in? I really really dont want to pul the motor now (or even want to pull it that much later) but I am pretty sure I will have to when I replace the mains etc. So after this long ass winded post...any good advice on the order I should replace everything? Thanks!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 03:32 PM
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Step 1, perform compression test. If you have good compression then you should not need to rering the motor. The 300 I6 is a very durable motor so you may just be good. They last a long time. You can pull the valve cover if you like and see if the engine is gummed up or anything.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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ok stupid question.how do I do this..... I can do all the external engine stuff, but I have never tore into one before.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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i got it.....you tube is a great thing......
will compression test this weekend
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 04:45 PM
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i got it.....you tube is a great thing......
will compression test this weekend
YeeeHaaaw... it'dn't cool? :)

Next thing you'll be rebuilding the axles...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5_0F...zpAUw&index=85
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PgMV...zpAUw&index=86
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-RyF...zpAUw&index=83
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8bLF...zpAUw&index=84

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 05:46 PM
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If you were to re-ring the engine, you'd need to disconnect the motor and transmission mounts and jack the engine up as high as you could. Remove the intake/exhaust manifolds, head, and oil pan. Then, disconnect the pistons and pull them out the top. In my experience though, making it easier on yourself by skipping what seems to be a difficult step usually just makes things a lot harder. Meaning, this would be a lot easier if you just removed the engine and put it on a stand. It'll be work to do it, but once you actually get into the job, you'll be glad you did. Plus, it'll give you a chance to fully re-gasket everything and check other things over.

However, before you do all that, I agree with others that you should do a compression check on it. Might not be anything wrong with it at all and all you need is a good carb rebuild and away you go.


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ive put the new carb on and it smokes less.....but still looks like a locomotive lol...i think AbandonedBronco that Im just gonna have to pull it anyway...I may just buy a shortblock and get it done....i think money wise it will prolly be less expensive
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 08:34 PM
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Hrmm... Yeah, if it's still smoking, it's probably in need. Try looking around on Craigslist for a good used one. I found one for my Bronco once for $50. It clattered and needed new lifters, but it had top notch compression and drove like a champ. The guy just pulled it because he bought the truck, didn't know the history, and just wanted a fresh engine. Never know what you can find!


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 08:43 PM
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just check the compression first. is the carb tuned correctly? just because "it's new" doesn't mean it's set up.

a 300 is VERY HARD TO KILL. I wouldn't think twice about putting in a junkyard engine it to save money vs. a rebuild

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New nuts are in the plan.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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compression test first.....

yeah im gonna take yalls advice and run a compression test this weekend before i buy anything.....thinking that as much as shes smoking it looks like im gonna lean toward a short block. Found one on precision engines for 475.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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oh and yes i had to adjust the idle and fast idle on the carb...seems to be a touch lean now but its real close.......
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 11:06 PM
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Having that engine out and apart would be a keen opportunity to put a junk yard EFI system on there and not have to worry about how out of whack that carb is.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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man I love the carb.......so much easier to deal with! Aight ya'll I ran the compression test and had 139 135 129 124 120 100 ......I know 100 is a little low..but surely not enough to make it smoke like a freight train......valves maybe?
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 10:43 AM
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The issue isn't really with it being low, it's that there's such a percentage of difference between the highest and lowest. That's a 28% difference between the two. About the most you want on a healthy engine is 10%.

But, if you want to test to see if it's your valves or your rings, pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder and repeat the compression test. If the compression goes up, your rings are bad. If it stays the same, it's the valves.


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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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yeah i was gonna do a wet test but kinda ran out of time.....think Ill do that this weekend that way Ill know for sure.....
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