1356 Tail housing - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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1356 Tail housing

I'm trying to figure out how to remove the tail housing for a 1356 t-case. I'm trying to figure out the count to the gear inside and see if its damaged.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 08:52 PM
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Remove rear drive shaft. Remove the nut in the center of the drive flange. Remove the vss/speedo cable. Then remove the four torx head bolts and it should pop off with a little coaxing.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Remove rear drive shaft. Remove the nut in the center of the drive flange. Remove the vss/speedo cable. Then remove the four torx head bolts and it should pop off with a little coaxing.
do i need to seal it back with permatex gasket and do i have to drain the t-case out? also, do i have to take the t-case off the bronco.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 10:50 PM
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Yes i would reseal it with permatex lightly. No need to drain it as long as your not parked facing up a big hill. And aslo no need to remove the tcase i think. Let me ask you this, are you only taking the tail housing off to count the speedo gear teeth? Or are you looking to open up the whole tcase to have a look inside? Your first post is a little vaige so i figured only the tail housing. If your wanting to open the whole case more is involved.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 11:32 PM
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You can look through the hole for the VSS. Disconnect the driveshaft and put the TC in neutral and use a mirror to look through the hole as you spin the yoke. You should be able to see all of the teeth and if you mark one you can count them as well.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 12:24 AM
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You can't count the drive gear teeth since it's a spiral (worm-drive). Don't remove anything but the driven gear. All you need is the COLOR of the drive gear - that identifies its tooth-count.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Yes i would reseal it with permatex lightly. No need to drain it as long as your not parked facing up a big hill. And aslo no need to remove the tcase i think. Let me ask you this, are you only taking the tail housing off to count the speedo gear teeth? Or are you looking to open up the whole tcase to have a look inside? Your first post is a little vaige so i figured only the tail housing. If your wanting to open the whole case more is involved.
i'm looking into taking of the tail housing.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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You can't count the drive gear teeth since it's a spiral (worm-drive). Don't remove anything but the driven gear. All you need is the COLOR of the drive gear - that identifies its tooth-count.
from reading other posts i figured its color coded but i just want to be on the safe side steve. i was talking to jim from http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm and he was saying that there are so many after market products out there for these gears that it would be better to be on the safe side to count the teeth instead of going by color.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 02:00 PM
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Well, you can count the spirals along the gear and that might be how that website IDs drive gears, but that number will be meaningless for gear ratio (the way most gearsets are IDed). To get the effective tooth count for the ratio, you'd have to wrap something around the drive gear & then count how many lands it crosses. But that would require removing either the gear or the tailhousing, which is pointless when it's color-coded.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Well...I just got back from the Hobby Shop( It' a place on the base where you can work on your vehicles) and could not get that nut off to get the tail housing off! I couldnt find the right socket metric and standard to save my life Even the Ford Master Tech that works there says those gears are color coded. Thanks for all the input fellas
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 04:22 PM
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it is 1 or 1 1/16 i think. pb blast it! mine was a real bish to get off
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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it is 1 or 1 1/16 i think. pb blast it! mine was a real bish to get off
tried the 1 1/16 and it wouldnt grip the nut. the one that almost worked was the 29mm thin wall socket. but they didnt have a 29mm six point thin wall socket.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 08:00 PM
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Just did mine, its a 32mm non impact socket for sure!
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 01:52 AM
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The nut &/or the clearance around it MIGHT be different for yoke vs. companion flange. Which do you have?
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 10:51 AM
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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I have the companion flange
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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I have the companion flange
Does anybody know the size of the nut to take the companion flange off the t-case?
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 09:15 PM
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My Snap-On chrome 1 1/4" barely fits in my '93 flange. A cheaper brand with a thinner wall should be easier, but cleaning the bore of the flange would help.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Does it matter if its six or twelve point. Also, do I need to buy new seals if I'm just removing the tailhousing.

Last edited by manchild; 01-30-2013 at 04:26 PM. Reason: adding info
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 05:50 PM
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No seal needed but for the $5 it costs for the output flange seal its good insurance.

It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
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