Oil pan 2 one inch nuts new to ford - FSB Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Oil pan 2 one inch nuts new to ford

I have just purchased my first ford an 86 bronco and can't seem to figure out how to drain the oil. It's 2 one inch nuts and an Allen wrench on top?
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:08 PM
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post a pic, or just remove the allen?


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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LarryP View Post
post a pic, or just remove the allen?
sorry i dont know how to upload pics it seems if you turn the allen wrench as if you were gonna tighten it loosens but i cant back out the two nuts. there is a rubber washer on the end of the allen bolt that wont let me
.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:32 PM
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Yeah someone jerry rigged that up. Thats where the normal drain plug should be. Carefully remove that and try to find a new replacement. Should be a bolt with a plastic washer, check the HELP section at your local autoparts for one.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah someone jerry rigged that up. Thats where the normal drain plug should be. Carefully remove that and try to find a new replacement. Should be a bolt with a plastic washer, check the HELP section at your local autoparts for one.
ok if worst case i would have to drop the oil pan and have a nut welded on the inside right?
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:45 PM
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If your going to drop the pan might aswell replace it. They are notorious for rotting out and leaking/seaping. Welding on oil embedded metal is difficult at best. If you can get that rigged job out the original threads might be ok. Its hard to tell.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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If your going to drop the pan might aswell replace it. They are notorious for rotting out and leaking/seaping. Welding on oil embedded metal is difficult at best. If you can get that rigged job out the original threads might be ok. Its hard to tell.
ok I should just swap the pan and gasket cuz its leaking any way just sucks all i wanted was an oil change. haha!
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 11:01 PM
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Yeah i hear ya. It sucks when you get a new to you truck and start finding where people got lazy and hacked things up for the next guy. Problem with my truck was alot was like that from the factory, hacked! Taken me years to redo there mistakes.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah i hear ya. It sucks when you get a new to you truck and start finding where people got lazy and hacked things up for the next guy. Problem with my truck was alot was like that from the factory, hacked! Taken me years to redo there mistakes.
aw man i think the end of the road is fading with this truck.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 11:51 PM
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Take that ugly piece of shit out of the pan, ask for a new drain plug and see if it grabs.

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Originally Posted by "Bronco" John Galt View Post
New nuts are in the plan.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 12:56 AM
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I would not mess with that until you are ready to do the job of replacing the pan, Get yourself a oil Vacuum sucker thingie and use that, they actually work pretty good.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 02:08 AM
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Replacing the pan can be a huge challenge for a newbie. You'll need a good shop stocked with some decent tools. Maybe even an engine hoist so you can lift the engine just enough to clear the support beam. IMO, if you happen to know a decent mechanic, a friend or relative, go ahead and change out the oil pan. I took a second look at that ghetto plug and now I think that the PO may have actually drilled that hole himself and plugged that POS into it. I say that because that looks a lot further forward than most drain plugs would be.

I feel I should also mention that, as far as what I can see in the pic, there is hardly any rust on the pan. All the oil seems to be leaking just from that.... "plug". That thing looks like they took some copper tubbing and used it as a "crush sleeve" with the set screw. Anyways, if you can salvage the drain hole, you can probably re-use the pan.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeysz06 View Post
Is it just one of those fancy "drain tube" connections?
One of those things so the oil don't run out on the crossmember?

Maybe nothing is "wrong" just need to learn how to "operate" it. LOL :)

If it were mine, I'd hold the lower hex section (next to the oil pan) with
an open end wrench then try turning the upper hex section to see what
happens. ;)

Off hand, I'd bet that the original 1/2-20 threads in the pan are fine. :)

But, if the threads are stripped-out they (used to at least) sell 2 steps
of over-sized drain plugs for stripped out drain plug holes.

Betcha it ain't stripped-out tho. :)

Might buy a new drain plug (and a couple over sized ones too?) along
with the oil and filter and have at it? :) Return the drain plugs you don't
need... Parts house guys know the drill, they do that everyday.

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ps- Oh heck, is that thing brazed on?
Clean that sucker off and take another picture.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 12:48 PM
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x2 AF's "Replacing the pan can be a huge challenge for a newbie."

Quote:
Originally Posted by AFBronco235 View Post
Replacing the pan can be a huge challenge for a newbie. You'll need a good shop stocked with some decent tools. Maybe even an engine hoist so you can lift the engine just enough to clear the support beam. IMO, if you happen to know a decent mechanic, a friend or relative, go ahead and change out the oil pan. I took a second look at that ghetto plug and now I think that the PO may have actually drilled that hole himself and plugged that POS into it. I say that because that looks a lot further forward than most drain plugs would be.

I feel I should also mention that, as far as what I can see in the pic, there is hardly any rust on the pan. All the oil seems to be leaking just from that.... "plug". That thing looks like they took some copper tubbing and used it as a "crush sleeve" with the set screw. Anyways, if you can salvage the drain hole, you can probably re-use the pan.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin in AZ View Post
"Replacing the pan can be a huge challenge for a newbie."
X3

I recommend pulling the motor when doing this job. It's a biatch to do in the truck.

I wouldn't mess with that plug until your ready to do the oil pan.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 01:17 PM
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All PO's should be IMO....you'll have to lift the engine to get the oil pan out due to the cross member as well as disconnecting the Y pipes at the exhaust manifolds and possibly the partial harness to get it up enough to get the pan out....PITA job but you'll want to resolve any pan leaks otherwise the oil will travel all over the under carriage....not to mention all over the driveway or garage floor....lol lol

Most auto parts stores sell inexpensive drain plugs with plastic O ring but they drain slower due to the smaller hole in the pan SOOOO if you can get someone to weld a bigger nut inside the pan you can make the hole for the bolt larger and this way it will drain faster when you change the oil and it won't come apart on the pan.


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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 351w500 View Post
I would not mess with that until you are ready to do the job of replacing the pan, Get yourself a oil Vacuum sucker thingie and use that, they actually work pretty good.


Ding, ding, ding, ding !!!!!!!! We have a winner !

Great advice to a newbie !

Joey I'd try something like 351W500 is suggesting. No it's not ideal, but neither is running oil so old and dirty it clogs your pickup screen. Just make sure the engine is warmed right up and then suck the dipstick tube !

Also, I wouldn't go blindly into an in-truck pan change as it ain't no picnic for a newbie. There's plenty of write ups here, with plenty of pics and opinions and tips.

I'd read em' all and see what you're getting yourself into.

Also, one more option for you. Not only do they sell new oil pan bolts, but they also sell slightly oversized oil pan bolts. They also make more professional oil pan bolt insert type repair plugs too.

Honestly though, on a pan that may well be 28 years old I'd be mighty careful trying to save the threads.

Best of luck and remember to get under your next truck and check for things like this before you buy.

Not saying you shouldn't have bought the truck, but you could have climbed out from underneath and looked "downright disgusted" at the guy and shamed him down a couple of hundred bucks.

Probably wouldn't have even needed to insult his parentage, just asked him "so, how many Chevrolets HAVE you owned in your life", inferring he got his training on GMs.

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixlitre View Post
Probably wouldn't have even needed to insult his parentage, just asked him "so, how many Chevrolets HAVE you owned in your life", inferring he got his training on GMs.

Sixlitre
ahem! Malcolm! I started my training on Chevrolets with my dad's Venture and 18 months at a chevy dealer changing oil and small jobs. I'm no hack!

Although I am still most comfortable working on a Chevy (or my wee spectra) because they are familiar and relatively easy to work on.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by "Bronco" John Galt View Post
New nuts are in the plan.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 06:03 PM
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Apologies to you personally TheUnforgiven, but....

I worked at a Plymouth stealership in the late 70s and we saw some INCREDIBLE damage done to the higher end Chryslers by hamfisted GM trained mechanics in the town over from us.

These tools would hammer the $300.00 wire hubcaps onto the rims with rubber mallets, making nearly every spoke rattle on brand new R-bodied Fifth Avenues ($26,000.00 cars back when a Nova was $6,000.00).

This didn't happen just once and it didn't stop after the owner and service manager contacted the Chev-a-lay stealership and notified them. One of them rolled back to us with so much bathtub caulking in the spokes the wheels wouldn't balance ! (their GM answer to un-F@%&ing their hammer work).

It even continued after one of the NewYorker owners, a lawyer, sued their @$$es off in court and the judge reprimanded "the primitive installation methods" the dealership used. That went over in the pits in a big way !

These neanderthals actually ruined several A-arms trying to remove ball joints by pressing them out !!!!!!!!! Any mechanic I know, understands they screw in, just like every NASCAR ball joint (because they use superior Mopar design ball joints, even on GM nascars). Who-TF rivets on a wear item !?!?!?!?!? or welds on door hinges !?!?!?!?!

I got a call one day from one of them asking where the points were on a 74' Dart Sport 360. I couldn't believe I was answering him but I said "good lord man, we haven't had points on ANY of our cars since 72'.

They f#@&ed up a torsion bar(which ALL GM trucks finally adopted 20 years late BTW) removal so bad we had to get a welder in for the customer (after he had it towed to us) to re-do the frame !

So, I'm sorry if I included you in the ring of "hacks extraordinaire" TheUnforgiven, but......most every hack mechanic I've encountered was GM trained.

Sort of like "not all Muslims are terrorists, but all terrorists are Muslim"

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