Overheating and Loss of power - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Overheating and Loss of power

I was away at college and my little sister was driving my 90 bronco 5.8l when it started to overheat. It was towed home and my dad tried to start it so much that the starter burned out and broke. Just got home and replaced the starter and it fires right up, and drives normal for a couple mineutes then all of a sudden its temp goes way up and it loses all of its power. Any ideas. some background info, it never seemed to have as much power as it should of but it always got the job done.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:35 PM
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Sounds like a bad thermostat.


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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 06:56 AM
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Do you have a lot of steam coming out of the exhaust?
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 09:51 AM
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like MS88 said, it could be a bad t-stat. easy way to check is to start the engine, let it come up to temp and then feel the radiator hoses. If it's stuck shut the hose won't get hot so it's not letting the coolant flow out of the engine block..I'd also check the oil for any sign of coolant..

let us know what you find.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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okay i just checked my thermostat using the boiling water technique and it opened and closed fine. i did notice how dirty it was inside where the thermostat connected to. could this have something to do with anything? and broncojoe19, i do have alot of steam coming out of exhaust now that i look at it
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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another thing, the steam stopped coming out in about 3 min and i drove it around a bit and it never got to hot although there was steam spewing out of the thermostat that i just looked at. did i put it on wrong, not tight enough, or do i just have to replace the gasket everytime i take it off.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 06:24 PM
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Yeah, you should replace the gasket, like most gaskets, when you remove it. I would probably replace the thermostat too, since it's like a $3 part. How's your oil? Anything odd there? Coolant level good?


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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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oh yea i forgot to check. other than the fact that according to my dipstick i put way to much oil in the engine it is clean. that was about 300 miles ago give or take a little, how much damage could this have done
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 07:00 PM
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I believe that we are thinking that you may have coolent leaking into your oil, perhaps a blown head gasket, or a bad gasket at the intake manifold. That is why some asked to check the oil. If it looks like milkshake, then you have water in the oil. If your oil level is rising, then you are getting coolent into the oil, or maybe gas.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 07:09 PM
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Overheating and Loss of power

If you have water/coolant in your oil enough for your dipstick to show "way too much oil," then it will likely be pooled at the bottom of your oil pan. Either way, you should drain a little out. If there is water at the bottom of you oil pan, it will come out when you remove the drain plug. Take a look at what you drain out. If it's milky, you have water in the oil. Also, if you have a significant loss of power like you mentioned earlier, you may have bad compression in one or more cylinders due to a bad head gasket somewhere. Have you run a self-test yet? Search on here for the self test, or maybe @miesk5 can copy paste the procedure here for you. Good luck.


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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 07:19 PM
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Yo,
As MS88Bronc mentioned, Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
Joe is the guy in post #9.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 07:50 PM
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This is gonna sound stupid, but make sure you're not out of oil.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven View Post
you could use your own piss as brake fluid, it would just boil at a lower temperature.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 05:54 PM
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Top off all fluids and start it up with the radiator cap off and check to see if the coolant is "boiling" fast compared to the temp guage and if so you may have a blown head gasket....otherwise replace the T stat and "backflush' the cooling system and refill with good anit-freeze, add some Redline "water wetter", it reduces corrosion and ambient temp around the cylinders and maybe do a tune up if it hasn't been done in a while ALL ignition parts and plugs.

Make sure you don't have any leaks in the emissions system which can create an exhaust leak robbing the engine of power!

Good Luck ~
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok i will use the advice from joe and test the codes and write back what i get tommorow. I cant do it yet though becuase i havnt got a new gasket for my thermostat yet so i cant run the engine/fill up the coolant. i just drained the oil (didnt mean to drain it all but i dropped cap and the washer blocked the threads and by the time i got it back down half the oil was out) and it is clean. and i put new plugs/wires in a couple months ago but i will check them out and replace the plugs and get back to you guys tommorow probaly
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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was replacing thermostat and it kept leaking so i got gasket and silicone stuff and used that but it still leaked. tried tightenng it a bit more and it cracked, so no im off to the junkyard to get a new thermostat housing.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattscook27 View Post
was replacing thermostat and it kept leaking so i got gasket and silicone stuff and used that but it still leaked. tried tightenng it a bit more and it cracked, so no im off to the junkyard to get a new thermostat housing.


Did you give the RTV a chance to set before starting the engine? It probably needs 2-3 hours to cure. Was it high temp RTV?


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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 01:18 AM
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The thermostat sits in a little recess, if the thermostat slips down out of that recess, when the thermostat housing is tightened down, the housing can't sit flat, so you'll tighten it, the housing will crack. Next time make sure the thermostat is seated in the recess or you'll keep breaking the housings.
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 10:06 AM
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...and don't forget to install it with the spring side facing out.


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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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ok i reinstalled it yesterday and gave it the 24 hours to dry. yea it was high temp. and there were no leaks, but after driving the car around a small one formed. when you rev the engine a bit the leak goes away but at idle it comes back. on this run the car didnt overheat but the temp gauge would go up than shoot back down again. the new therstat is 195 degress if that matters. The engine stil drove fine at first but began to sputter/shake and lose some power but not as much as before.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
drives normal for a couple minutes then all of a sudden its temp goes way up and it loses all of its power.
Is the engine actually getting HOT? or is it like someone flipped a switch, and the temp gauge went from normal to HOT?
If you short the gauge, it will go to max. I haven't looked at the schematics, so I don't know if there is a common circuit that could cause the engine to puke, and short the gauge to max.

Now that you have the engine running, you might pull codes, see if that leads you to something.

And/or do a compression test.

--------------------------------------------
Do you have heat?
Does it stay hot, or does it cool pretty quickly?

Is your water pump leaking?
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