Vacuum Reservoir Lines - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Vacuum Reservoir Lines - Black Coffee Can looking thing

Does anyone know where i can find replacements for the plastic vacuum lines connected to the Vacuum Reservior?
The thin black hose/line was melted off by the egr valve.

I think the black goes to the solenoid and red goes to the manifold somewhere? Please correct me if i'm wrong.

Thanks!

1994 XLT 5.8
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:18 PM
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Best thing to do would be to replace all that brittle 23 year old plastic stuff with silicone vac hose. You probably have more broken lines than you think.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Great thanks! Wasn't sure if I could just use any generic silicone hose.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 08:31 PM
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Yo T,
Seattle FSB wrote "Get the Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Engine Dress Up Kit and then an additional 10' of 4mm vacuum hose in the color of your choice. I used wire loom to protect the hose through the Intake Manifold, to the Diverter Valve and where it rubs on the Intake to the EVP. www.siliconeintakes.com"

In Replace Vacuum Hoses by Booba @
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ses-rubber.htm


I guess the black hose is from EVR to EGR Valve

EVR Location pic by Seattle FSB

Vacuum Line Routing 94 5.8L in attachment
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Last edited by miesk5; 02-15-2017 at 08:36 PM. Reason: Changed EVR URL
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 10:23 PM
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Red is to the Manifold Vacuum Tree, Black reservoir vacuum to the Emissions Solenoids.





The Vacuum Canister has a check valve to hold reserve vacuum.
Aligning with the Orientation Post, Red/Manifold must be left and Black/Emissions must be right.
Supporting the Emissions System during Low RPM/Low Vacuum is the sole purpose of the Vacuum Reservoir.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys. I bought some silicone hoses and will be replacing them soon.

I recently got a koeo code 332 and was hoping this is the root cause. THANKS AGAIN!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 02:28 PM
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Yo T,
Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle inside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..." by greystreak92 (Joe B)

EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by Seattle FSB @ EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement


DTC 332 in a 95; "...CHECK YOUR VACUUM CANISTER; I had this issue for well over a year. I did all my proper checks using the blueprint that Meisk5 gave me. I went through the EVP, manually checked the EGR, all vacuum hose that was pertinent, ETC. removed my vacuum canister to install my new one and this is what I found underneath. I replaced it with this canister (rust bullet applied) from my donor truck and finished it with BlackShell..."
Source: by td 152 at FSB

I mentioned the black hose from EVR TO EGR Valve because I guessed it was "melted off by the egr valve". Post a pic.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I will test the EGR and EVP once i get the hoses installed.

Couple of pics. You can see the black wire melted/cracked. Both the black and red wires seem to wrap behind the motor.

http://imgur.com/a/pV2uK

http://imgur.com/a/PQ8af
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:05 PM
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Yo T,
My cheap tablet has very poor resolution, but I am guessing they are vacuum lines that go to;

...
Emission vacuum cannister.

Here is a pic by booba

He has more pics for you to compare @ Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - Ford Bronco Forum

Including Carbon Canister aka Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister ;
[IMG][/IMG]
pic by Seattle FSB

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

Last edited by miesk5; 02-16-2017 at 06:07 PM. Reason: New url for booba's pic
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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WOW! :) That color coded pic makes everything much clearer. I might as well check out all the hoses down there.

Also, can a broken vacuum reservoir line cause any engine performance issues? idle issue? I seem to not have any of those symptoms.

Thanks!
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:47 AM
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Yo T,
Thank booba for the pic and Seattle FSB for his info.
Vacuum Leaks; can cause a lean,. condition, fast or rough idle, hesitation, stall, misfire and/or a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) .

HVAC System leak "...The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit. ..." by Ford

"Intake Manifold Vacuum Test
Bring the engine (6007) to normal operating temperature. Connect Rotunda Vacuum/Pressure Tester 164-R0253 or equivalent to the intake manifold (9424). Run the engine at the specified idle speed.
The vacuum gauge should read between -51 and -74 kPa (15 and 22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT 5.5 kPa FOR EVERY 500 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. It may be necessary to adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust damper until needle moves easily without excessive flutter.
Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation
A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Remember that vacuum gauge readings must be interpreted with care.
Most vacuum gauges have a "normal" band indicated on the gauge face."

See and read more @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series

And See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 @ Help with dtc codes and idle

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Miesk, Booba, and SeattleFSB!

I replaced both vacuum hoses. Engine light is off now and the broncs seems to run better. I will be testing the other lines with all the info and links you've provided, as I'm sure I'll find more leaks.

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