Finally get to do some maintenance... - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 09:10 PM
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Been sick, but as soon as I'm feeling better I will try to get a better look at it for leaks.
I hope you get to feeling better soon.

Wife and I recently had the upper respiratory infection bug that has been going around. Not fun.

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post #22 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! That doesn't sound fun at all. Live with 5 others and they were all sick for a few weeks. Thought I had managed to dodge it, but it finally got me.

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post #23 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 03:39 AM
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I've been using the 9mm FMSR wires for over 10 years without any issue, however I also have been using MSD and Autolite ignition products and now I'm of the mindset now to use Motorcraft, cap rotor and plugs due to a Cali smog test problems in the past, in particular with Autolite plugs, currently have Champion's in now but next change I will switch to MC .......


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post #24 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 08:48 PM
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Not sure what the draw is to numbered wires as it is pretty easy to follow a plug wire from end to end... Replace them one at a time, starting with the longest one. What matters is they last and carry good current. For that reason they are good, high quality wires, regardless of the printing on them. :)
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post #25 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 09:47 PM
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Supposedly they are a bigger wire so you get a better spark at the plug.

I agree that in a stock engine with the timing set to stock (10 degrees BTC) you won't see an advantage with these performance parts. One thing I'm curious about, I mainly hear this stuff (9mm wires, hotter coil) mentioned in conjunction with the sixlitre tuneup (wider plug gap, advance timing a little bit). Would upgrading to a hotter coil AND going to 9mm wires make a noticeable difference if you also widened the plug gap AND advanced the timing a few degrees? Or would the stock wires and coil be able to handle this?

Sorry about the hijack but it's basically relevant to the original hijack. Lol.
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post #26 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 11:14 PM
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The thicker insulation just helps keep the spark in the wire where it belongs instead of maybe shorting/arcing out along the way. It is also more resistant to heat and such which is not a bad thing. I believe (maybe wrongly) that the inner current conducting material offers less electrical resistance so more of the spark energy gets to the plug.

I used those blue FMS wires on my Mustang.
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post #27 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpeters549 View Post
Not sure what the draw is to numbered wires as it is pretty easy to follow a plug wire from end to end... Replace them one at a time, starting with the longest one. What matters is they last and carry good current. For that reason they are good, high quality wires, regardless of the printing on them. :)
Can't speak for everyone but I didn't know they came numbered and had never seen a set marked like that.
I thought it was pretty cool but function before form, always. If you can get both... all the better.

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post #28 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 03:46 PM
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love my FR wires on the car.

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94' 302, e4od, 1356m, Manual hubs 33x12.5 tires. Fiberworx 4.5 inch flared fiberglass fenders/bedsides. Sag pump/4blt steering box swap in progress
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post #29 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 06:27 PM
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Not that it's that big a deal but for me the numbered wires makes it faster to figure out what length wires goes where so don't have to lay them side by side and figure that out, but I'm just an old fart now and don't like to think too hard you know.....lol lol

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post #30 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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So, finally past being sick and now I'm just waiting on parts. I decided to, for now, just to stick with stock parts and ordered the MC Cap, plugs, and coil. Went ahead and got the FMS wires (found them a few bucks cheaper on Amazon than they were thru Summit). Parts should be here today or tomorrow. Thanks for all the info., definitely helped.

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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 01:13 AM
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KUDOS Brother and you won't be disappointed with the set of FMSR wires, they last for quite a while you know.......keep up the good work!


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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate it! Can't wait to start doing something with it. If all goes well, I'll spend this Sunday at my brother in laws trying to clean up as much of the engine/bay as I can (can't do it here cause of the HOA). Then will do the tune up.

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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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The rest of my parts didn't come in on Saturday like they were supposed to. Got them today at about 7:30 this evening. Replaced the brake booster with a reman Brakebest booster from Oreilly's and it hisses just like the old one. Did I get a bad booster? Install went smooth otherwise, but that hissing is still there when you push the brake pedal.

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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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While trying to clean up the driver wheel well cover (the plastic cover, whatever it is called) I went ahead and pulled the air box so I could clean underneath it as well. The bracket for the airbox has a foam pad that the air box sits on, this was completely soaked in motor oil. Pushed on it with my finger and a ton of oil just oozed out of it. Is it getting into the air box from that hose that goes to the valve cover?

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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 03:03 AM
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Was the air filter full of oil too?
That "hose" is part of the PCV system. Filtered air (as the hose is on the clean side of the airflow) goes INTO the valve cover, and thus into and through the crankcase, the PCV valve (on the other valve cover) is connected to the intake manifold. Vacuum in the intake manifold cause the crankcase gasses to flow into the intake manifold to be burned (rather that just vented to the atmosphere).
On engines that have a lot of blow by, there is a possibility of the PCV system not being able to handle all the blow by, and the excess gasses and accompanying oil fumes go OUT that hose and contaminate the air filter.

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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 03:25 AM
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Not directly related but there's a Technical Service Bulletin from Ford on your '91 5.0 to re-route the PCV line.
Don't know the TSB number but maybe someone will hook you up. Easy fix and well worth the effort.
Not sure if it was mentioned... but reading the PCV conversation reminded me.

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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Was the air filter full of oil too?
That "hose" is part of the PCV system. Filtered air (as the hose is on the clean side of the airflow) goes INTO the valve cover, and thus into and through the crankcase, the PCV valve (on the other valve cover) is connected to the intake manifold. Vacuum in the intake manifold cause the crankcase gasses to flow into the intake manifold to be burned (rather that just vented to the atmosphere).
On engines that have a lot of blow by, there is a possibility of the PCV system not being able to handle all the blow by, and the excess gasses and accompanying oil fumes go OUT that hose and contaminate the air filter.
There was no air filter in it at all, but the air box itself was saturated with oil, there was even a puddle of it at the bottom of the box.

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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Not directly related but there's a Technical Service Bulletin from Ford on your '91 5.0 to re-route the PCV line.
Don't know the TSB number but maybe someone will hook you up. Easy fix and well worth the effort.
Not sure if it was mentioned... but reading the PCV conversation reminded me.
Thank you, will see if I can find it.

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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 05:19 PM
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No air filter? that's not good. Put a filter in it, and then check it in a couple of days.
Also check to see if your PCV valve is working (it should at least rattle, but as they are only a couple of bucks, get one when you get an air filter).

The PCV hose reroute (if it has not already been done) is to put the vacuum source for the brake booster at the back of the intake manifold, and take the PCV vacuum source hose and put that on the fitting that the brake booster was using. This puts the PCV gasses/vapors more in the middle of the intake manifold. With the PCV gasses/vapors dumping into the intake at the rear of the intake, the oil vapors, etc. can cause excessive carboning of the two rear cylinders. If you need to make this change, make sure the new hoses are rated for PCV use. A good auto parts place will know what kind of hose to use. IIRC, it may even be marked for PCV use.
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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 06:55 PM
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See if you can make sense of this video I made awhile back, sorry it's not the best but essentially what it is to disconnect the brake booster line off the "top" of the plenum and routing it to the "back" of the fuel injection plenum where's there's a threaded short tube and then routing the PCV valve hose up to the "top" of the fuel injection plenum where the booster line went and in this way the gases won't stay in # 4 and # 8 cylinders destroying the rings etc. (TSB Recall)

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