possible bad rear window switch ('92) - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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possible bad rear window switch ('92)

This is probably better suited to the Tech forum, but I don't have sufficient post count yet. (I haven't posted an intro or build thread yet; got my hands plenty full at the moment.)

I acquired a rather rough '92 this week, hoping to use it as a light duty utility/hauler once running reliably. While looking things over, I noticed one of the tail lights was out, so I lowered the window from the dash switch to drop the tailgate. Then I realized, the window goes down but not up... Similar to this old thread, perhaps:

just a heads up on the rear window switch

It's further complicated by my tailgate switch hanging loose inside the tailgate. I should have removed the access panel before lowering the window and tried to figure out what's going on there and if it's missing an exterior trim piece to hold it in place. Oops. I've read that there's a method of manually raising the glass, but I haven't found details yet.

So, I started troubleshooting the dash switch, following this page:

1983 Ford Bronco Tailgate Tech picture | SuperMotors.net

It failed in rather epic fashion!

Test 1: Pass. Continuity between 4 & 2 and 3 & 5. No continuity between 1 and any others.

Test 2: Fail. 5 has continuity with 4. No continuity between 1 & 3.

Test 3: Fail. No continuity between 3 & 5 or 1 & 4. 2 has continuity with 4 and 5.

Now, I'm no electrical expert, so it's possible I did something wrong, but I've got a good multimeter and repeated the tests several times. Is that conclusive that I have a bad switch, or is there something else I should test?

If I do have to replace the switch, how the heck do you disconnect it? I swear it requires an octopus to pry the four prongs away (top and bottom, with each split into two) while prying the connector away from the switch. I ran out of hands less than halfway through the process.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Also, is it unprecedented to have test 3 fail even though lowering of the window works? That aspect leaves me thinking it could be user error.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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I just remembered another pertinent detail (I'm not trying to up my post count, I promise!): With the window lowered all the way, I can hear the click when pressing the down button on the master switch. I hear no such click when pressing the up button.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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I finally released the connector on the dash switch by breaking one of the 4 legs and prying it free. A friend stopped by and quickly said the same thing I did yesterday..."I don't have enough hands." Is there a special tool for that?

Anyway, once opened up, I switched the up/down pins (#3 and 4) to test my theory that the switch is bad, not the motor or wiring. Sure enough, the down button raised the glass. Yay, now I don't have to keep it tarped!

With the glass up, I can finally get to the tailgate switch and see what's going on there. The metal clip mount thingie is missing on the inside of the tailgate, and the lock cylinder is missing from the switch assembly. However, I can pivot the lever (that the key would turn) either direction to hit the up/down plungers, allowing me to lower the glass from inside. Since I can't operate it by key from outside, maybe I'll move it out of the tailgate and into the interior... That's not as urgent of a matter now, though, so we'll see.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 11:51 AM
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Yo,
Good that you got it figured out!

Google for cylinder with key Ford pn F5TZ-9821984-BA;
Some results for example:
The NOS Tailgate Lock Cylinder & Keys 78 - 96 Ford Bronco With Electric Rear Window go for US $$79.99

Bloqueo de teclas de Cilindro & nos Portón Trasero 78 - 96 Ford Bronco con posterior ventana eléctrica | eBay

F5TZ-9821984-BA | RearCounter.com | 1 found at 1 seller
1 found at 1 seller


The clip is available @ Tailgate Bronco 83-96-Broncograveyard.com

See how much a locksmith will charge to make you a key for a yard queens cylinder.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply.

Can locksmiths change the tumblers to match a junkyard cylinder? Carrying a second key wouldn't be the end of the world, although knowing me, I would pick the wrong one on the first try 90% of the time. :) There are two '80s Broncos at the local yard. I'll have to see if they have the rear locks still. If not, are the door locks compatible?

How does the clip mount to the tailgate for the rear switch? I couldn't find it on that Bronco Graveyard link. Does it get welded on? That's a game saver if it can be replaced!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:33 PM
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Yo,
Call a local lock smith. Ours made a key for a door lock in tge ex 76 stepside in minutes.

The clip aka retainer is a spring type push-on, see itv@
1980-96 Ford Bronco Tailgate Lock Cylinder Wire Clip-Broncograveyard.com


See

Section 01-14A: Handles, Locks, Latches and Mechanisms
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION;

Remove interior access cover panel.
NOTE: If glass cannot be raised, remove glass. Refer to Section 01-11.
Raise glass.
Remove lock cylinder retainer.
Disengage lock cylinder from switch.
Remove lock cylinder from tailgate.
Installation
Follow removal procedures in reverse order.

From 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by FORD via 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
96 is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:
92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer
96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;
4WABS (93-96);
RABS (87-92);
Air Bag (94-96);
3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
R134a in 94-96;
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;
Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).
96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.
The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV.
The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.
Still researching other differences
...

Penetrating Lubricant E8AZ-19A501-B or equivalent commercial product is used to eliminate sticking or binding of all key lock cylinders. I use powdered graphite available in small tubes.

I forget if door cylinders are same or close enough to swap the piece that touches the switch. Will look through my notes later, have to get off my butt and walk.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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I think I understand now. It looks like we were talking about two different clips.

I found retainer clip 43629 sitting down in the tailgate. From pictures I had seen of the lock mounted up, it looked like that clip is permanently attached to the inside of the tailgate (thus my welded on question), and the lock assembly mounts to it. It appears to just be a back side tensioner, though, with the outside being held in place by the keyhole trim?

I was going to post pics of what mine looks like, but I take it image upload isn't allowed, only remote linking? Is that a new member restriction?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fodder View Post
I think I understand now. It looks like we were talking about two different clips.
Yes we are.
I found retainer clip 43629 sitting down in the tailgate. From pictures I had seen of the lock mounted up, it looked like that clip is permanently attached to the inside of the tailgate (thus my welded on question),
No, both clip & retainer are push on and not welded to the tg. The clip may be rusted to the tg metal skin.
and the lock assembly mounts to it.
Yes
It appears to just be a back side tensioner, though, with the outside being held in place by the keyhole trim?
See pic witgh following narrative in the in Tailgate Replacement by Dustin S on page 2; click the pic to enlarge.
"Remove the c-clip holding the switch onto the lock cylinder and pull off the switch. Then remove the c-clip holding the lock cylinder onto the tailgate and pull the cylinder out. If you have the silver vanity panel on your tailgate, you have to remove it first before removing the lock cylinder by unscrewing the nuts from the studs."
I was going to post pics of what mine looks like, but I take it image upload isn't allowed, only remote linking? Is that a new member restriction?
No member restrictions on posting pics..
Here is the info that is usually given to new members in the Introduction Section;
How to POST PICTURES
How to use search (Advanced)
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
Common Replies to FAQs
Check with local dealer to see if cruise control, if equipped recall was performed, have VIN ready. "Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
...

Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) same as by Ford; Search Wiring Diagrams

Please VOTE FSB for Top4x4 site once daily @ Top4x4Sites.com - Listing some of the top 4x4 and Off Road sites on the web!
BTW, this is my 3rd attempt to reply due to an error message.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, a paid member restriction, not a new member one...
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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I found this linked in another thread and thought it might be what I experienced:

ATTN: 92-96ers - try this to fix rear window switch issues

but after cleaning the contacts and switching the up/down wires back to normal, the switch still only works in one direction.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by fodder View Post
Ah, a paid member restriction, not a new member one...
Yeah, remote linking for free members. Go down to the second set of instructions. I think he calls it the "Supermotors Method". You load the pics on a photo hosting site, then hotlink them here. I still use that method, even though I'm a paid member. It makes it so I only have to load the pics once & can use them on multiple sites.

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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^ Yeah, I figured it out, thanks. It's not the most convenient thing, but if you're posting stuff on multiple sites, I suppose that makes sense as an intermediate step.
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