Anti Rap bar on a 9" - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
JAN. '17 F.O.T.M.
 
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Anti Rap bar on a 9"

I'm going through Drive lines like there going out of style. 2 wheeling trips 2 Double Cardan breaks. I can't find anything wrong with the suspension and with some advise it's probably axle wrap.

I ordered Ruff Stuff anti axle wrap setup and it should be here Monday. I also ordered new Spring Perches as both of my spring wedges are also cracked (1 I just replaced). Also one of the Spring Perches has a hairline crack in it so something is moving around in the rear end.

Looking at the Ford 9" looks to be Cast pumpkin that take up half the axle tube. I would thing I would want the new Anti Axle Wrap brackets mounted as close to center as possible but this would mean having to weld them to the cast. I have read and read on this and still not sure if this can be done. Some things I have read said it can be done with a stick welder with a special rod, preheat, a hammer, and post heat. Also some say it can be done with a Mig but I'm not convinced.

My question is can this be done ? or if I mounted the brackets on the axle tube where it is not cast would it still work being further away from the Pumkin ?

I am hoping to do this myself with a Mig but will take somewhere if I have too.

What have you guys done that have a 9" rear end and an Anti Wrap bar installed? Pics will help

thanks

Last edited by Quader1; 03-18-2017 at 12:21 PM. Reason: trying to change Rap to Wrap in the title
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:32 PM
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9" housing is all mild steel, feel free to weld away with normal MIG/TIG processes. The center section that comes out is cast but you should be able to see what I mean.
I have welded on several 9" ford housings with zero issues. You do want to take it slow(ish) as there is a chance to wrap it.
The stock perches like the bend on these also, which cracks the wedges.

You cannot see it in that pic but that housing also has a back brace that Moser welded on for me, they mig'd it as well.
Im not a pro welder either, not a beginner, just OK for my own stuff


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Last edited by CrazyBRONCOguy; 03-18-2017 at 02:20 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @CrazyBRONCOguy much appreciated, and good news. so where you have your brackets is a good place for them?

I thought the housing was cast and was like oh crap!!

What is this brace you speak of? Is it from the pumpkin to the bracket of the wrap bar?

Thanks for your help again.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 02:18 PM
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backbrace, you can see the extra part on the rear of the housing, that is what moser added. This much welding will wrap the housing. Moser also cut the ends loose and re-aligned everything.

My bar is where it is at due to exhaust and a few other things that where in the way. From what I have seen the closer to the middle you can get the better, especially if only running 1 bar. However I have seen people put them under the frame for an easy way to mount it and has worked just find there too. One thing I like about it towards the center is it helps protect the drive shaft, at least a little.


The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
Build Thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...8-project.html
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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That is perfect , exactly what I was looking for ... thanks a bunch.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Also one of the Spring Perches has a hairline crack in it so something is moving around in the rear end.
Common problem on the 9" due to the fact that the spring perches are not as wide as the springs and is compounded if you have a lift in the rear that involves blocks. Spring perches will start to mash down in the front and rear and a crown will form in the middle of the spring perch, this is due to acceleration and stopping action on the springs. Since factory wedges are cast, they will crack because spring perch is no longer flat. Best thing to due is to measure the pinion angle, trash the factory wedge block, cut off the old perches, install new perches (Ruff Stuff makes excellent replacement perches), reset pinion angle and weld in the new perches.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:46 AM
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Both of my broncos have the above done. If you get the ruffstuff 9" simple swap kit you will get new heavy duty u-bolts and spring plates too.


The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
Build Thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...8-project.html
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you @Ziggy .. I already have those on order , they should be here Monday.

The pinion angle to the driveline is 2*
I haven't really researched it yet but dose it sound about the right angle ?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 03:17 PM
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I am using 4° shims on my spring perches. Everything continues to be great for several years now and I am hesitant to move the spring perches as recommended. No vibrations what-so-ever, otherwise that would be an option. See this link: High Torque Rear End Advice

Here is my Curry F9 set-up:


Curry F9 with Back Brace



Note the U-Bolt Support Plates...



RuffStuff 5/8" Grade 8 U-Bolts...



RuffStuff 3/8" Steel Spring Plates...



RuffStuff 1/4" Thick 3" x 8" Antiwrap Spring Perches...



Mock-up 1



Mock-up 2



Mock-up 3



4° Shims fixed initial vibration problem



Added Shock Mounts and configured Rear Sway Bar bracket





Finished product
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 03:21 PM
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I think the stock perches are the weak link. I had ruffstuff perches, the stock wedge, that traction bar, and ruffstuff spring plates and never had a wedge crack again.
I would also not change a thing Seattle


The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
Build Thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...8-project.html
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a problem with me just welding the new perches angled and doing away with the wedges all together ?

I already have the heavy duty u bolts and spring plate.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 03:57 PM
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No that is best case scenario to me.
But if you must run wedges I would no do it with the factory perch.


The Street Queen: '92 Eddie Bauer- C6 Swap, Roller 357W 400hp/400ft-lbs, SCT Tuned, 4" Lift, 4.10's,
Go Fastish Build: '78 Custom- 4" Deaver Lift, Mild 460, Full Cage, 4.10's
Build Thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...8-project.html
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quader1 View Post
Is there a problem with me just welding the new perches angled and doing away with the wedges all together ?
I would say that is the better way to do it. The wedges are just a way to adjust the angle without cutting and welding the perches.

.http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=26328&dateline=121233  5329
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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@Seattle FSB I read through your whole rearend build and some great info.

Question for you . Is that a stock sway bar with custom brackets?

If not what is it off of?

I like how it's over the 3rd member unlike mine.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:45 PM
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Same, same. Stock 1990 Rear Sway Bar - with same weld-on axle mounts. The weld-on mounts were massaged for 3" axle tubes and turned 180° to clear the Curry F9 Housing. I cannot speak for your 1978 (except that the 400 is very cool an rare).


1990 Rear Sway Bar on 8.8...



1990 Rear Sway Bar on 9" .



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