89 EB 302 won't run. HELP - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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89 EB 302 won't run. HELP

I have an 89 EB with a 302 auto transmission. It was sitting up for a couple years before I got it. First thing I noticed was a leak in the rusted fuel tank changed that. It will start if I cycle thru the fuel pump priming a couple times. Runs pretty terrible will rev up some but eventually dies. The only codes I could pull (koeo) were 23 & 53. I checked the tps with an ohm meter
Was getting nothing so I replaced it. I also got a salvage EEC (???) which made little to no difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:52 AM
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Have you checked your IAC yet? There's lots of info on that here. There's a bunch of things that could be bad but that's a good thing to check. (Common failure). If that checks out to be good, I would check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You could possibly have something simple go bad, like a fuel filter. If you get it running long enough you can also check your injectors using a cheap mechanics stethoscope(I got mine from Harbor freight for about 4 bucks). Or you could use a length of rubber hose. Put one end up to the injector while running and one up to your ear, you should hear a ticking noise from every one. If not, it could be clogged or shot.
Hope this helps diagnose something!! Make sure you keep us up on date on your progress!

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:37 AM
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Yo Tinki,
Welcome!
As 59 advised on the Idle Air Control ( IAC) aka Idle Air Bypass (IAB), etc
IAC Overview, Cleaning & Testingby Ryan M @ Fuel Injection Technical Library Idle Air Bypass (IAB)

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...t-your-iac.htm with tests lby Seattle FSB (testing is more electrically oriented than above article)
..

DTC 23 Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Performance Problem.
DTC 53 KOEO TPS circuit above maximum 4.5 volts.; OR KOER TPS circuit has intermittently failed above maximum 4.5 volts.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...anagement.html by Seattle FSB
ALSO;
Disconnect TPS sensor vehicle harness connector. Inspect for damaged pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
..
Suggest strongly to use Ford Motorcraft sensors, such as the TPS & IAC (IF NEEDED)

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 12:18 PM
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I would second checking fuel pressure at the rail. Both running and engine off.

Sitting is usually not great for these....with lovely ethanol fuel these days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick response guys. Ok so I checked the IAC looks great on the inside. I got 9.5 ohms and 12 v going to it. The Tps however has 5.1 going to it. From what Miesk5 posted I think that is too much. Is that correct.

Also not sure the best way to check the pressure in the fuel rail. It has pressure but not sure what I need to check it. For some reason I'm guessing a tire pressure gauge isn't going to end well. Thanks again
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:51 PM
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On the fuel rail, about the #5 cylinder is a schrader valve. Either buy (~$25) or rent a fuel pressure gauge from most auto parts stores. Then you'll know what your fuel pressure is. There are NO codes for fuel pressure being too low.

Once you get a gauge, check the pressure with the engine idling (write down the number), rev the engine and see if the pressure increases. Then take the vacuum line off the Fuel Pressure Regulator with the engine idling, and see what the fuel pressure does.
With the KOEO (if you can't get it to start), bleed off all the pressure (there is a button and a small hose on the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure), then turn on the key, write down the pressure number.

Come back and tell us the numbers.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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It won't idle much but I will see what I can do. Thank you.

Also on a side not I did change the fuel filter.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinki View Post
... The Tps however has 5.1 going to it. From what Miesk5 posted I think that is too much. Is that correct.
Yo,

KOEO TPS Voltage Reference (VREF)is EEC supplied voltage of 5 volts) that is good because your meter may not be accurate . VREF is Orange/White wire in your 89.

As Mike advised... Part 1 -How to Test the Fuel Pump (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:47 PM
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Obviously address any trouble codes...But

My first question is what kind of fuel is getting to the engine?

You said you "fixed that". Do you mean you replaced the tank AND filled it with fresh fuel?

Old, stagnant water filled fuel will make the engine run like the drizzling $hits.

Also fuel related, sitting for long periods of time can be REALLY bad for injectors.

I would want to see good fresh fuel (along with a new filter), good fuel pressure, then good fuel VOLUME.
Next test for injector pulse. Then check individual injectors.

After fuel is all checked off the list, we can move to something else if needed...

"Oh man, lodged where??"
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Yes new tank, New fuel (ethanol free), New filter, new screen. Cleaned the sending unit up and put it back in.

So I checked the fuel pressure I'm only getting 10-12 psi goes up to maybe 15 when I crank it. Not what it should be. So the inline pump is coming on but not 100% sure the one in the fuel tank is. Sounds like it when I put my ear to the tank. But may be coming from the other through the fuel line.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:47 PM
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Another thing worth checking is the fuel pressure regulator. It's located on the fuel rail on the driver side close to the firewall.

Looks like this. Pull the vacuum line off the top and see if the line smells like fuel. If it does it is bad.




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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:55 PM
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Can you check what the pressure would be if you momentarily pinched the fuel line down stream of the Fuel Pressure Regulator? (Tank side) It will have a vacuum line going to it and should be located toward the back of the motor as I remember it.

note what it does more so than actual #. increases lots? no change?

If you pull the vacuum line off of it, there should not be any fuel present. Replace it if there is.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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The regulator looks fine. No gas present on the vaccum side.

I will try pinching the line like you asked when I have a helper.

Also could it be a bad sending pump? Or if it's getting any fuel dose that mean it's ok?

I put five gallons in the tank should that be sufficient?

Thanks again for all the help
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:04 AM
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Yo T,
Does your 89 still have the single-accumulator (aka reservoir) in it? Some owners or shops have pulled it and replaced with fuel lines and external filter.

pic by 13 bronco in his 89 Bronco...


New pic by amazon
...
Overview: "...Dual fuel pump systems must have a fuel accumulator between them. Fuel accumulators store fuel from the low pressure pump for the high-pressure pump. Storing fuel is a great idea for rock crawlers, as the accumulator holds a reserve of fuel, just in case gravity temporarily affects the gas tank. Accumulators also equalize fuel flow between the pumps. If one pump is pushing over 75GPH and the other is only flowing 50GPH, something has to give. Once the accumulator is full, excess fuel flows out to the return fuel line, and back to the tank. This keeps the low-pressure pump from stressing the high-pressure pump..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
Test in 88-89: "...Only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are not connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir nipple, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..." Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
...

For posterity, Single-Function Reservoir Overview, Location & O Ring Installation in an 86; "Mine is under the T-Case skid plate on the drivers frame rail, it's black plastic with a screw style thread top & bottom which uses an O ring and a hockey puck style filter with a hole on one side, hole side goes up to the nipple inside the cap, both about $9.00 at any autochain. The "O" ring doesn't want to cooperate when putting it in place so use something tacky to keep it in place when you go to thread it back on otherwise you'll squish it and it will piss gas all over, also the bottom part needs to be threaded all the up without any gap at the top also will piss gas if incorrect. used a small model paint brush almost DRY with Permatex for the inside "O" ring track just to get it to set up to keep the "O" ring in place when screwing it back together and it worked fine, the amount of Permatex was insignificant with no potenial to impead anything, but use what ever you like. IIRC the Reservoir was designed to keep the fuel pumps supplied from starving when the vehicle is at different positions, cornering, off road driving etc..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean ) at FSB

Single-Function Reservoir Disassembly in an 86; "...I found that the only tool I could get to unscrew that damn canister was a rubber lined adjustable oil filter wrench. It was a cheapy wrench that I got at like Kmarts or something. It worked great for this job. Now for the o-ring, lube it in some vaseline an it should stay in place a lot easier. When mine went bad on my old 86, I was getting a lot of hestations, backfires from my lean mixtures. Even had the cops called on me for shooting a gun out the window in a neighborhood..."
Source: by sackman9975 (Scott) at FSB

Single-Function Reservoir Overview; "...Dual fuel pump systems must have a fuel accumulator between them. The model from BC Broncos is a multi-tasking wonder. Fuel accumulators store fuel from the low-pressure pump for the high-pressure pump. Storing fuel is a great idea for rock crawlers, as the accumulator holds a reserve of fuel, just in case gravity temporarily affects the gas tank. Accumulators also equalize fuel flow between the pumps. If one pump is pushing 72GPH and the other is only flowing 50GPH, something has to give. Once the accumulator is full, excess fuel flows out to the return fuel line, and back to the tank. This keeps the low-pressure pump from stressing the high-pressure pump. Normal accumulators stop there, but not the model from BC Broncos. They built one starting with a fuel filter. You get the accumulator and the filter all in one $70 package..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50 at former fordfuelinjection. But retrieved;
See Inject Your Horsepower (formerly Inject Your Horse) , section 3.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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No change in fuel pressure when I pinched the line on the regulator.

Yes I believe I still have the accumulator. Here's a pic of what I found. I will pic up a filter and change that.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:54 AM
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Yo T,
That is the accumulator.
Buy the O ring too.
See if you perform the test, much better to be safe than sorry. Have a helper with fire extinguishers on-hand, googles, face mask, etc. MUST BE DONE ON A COLD ENGINE. GL!

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Is there any way to tell if this accumulator is muti function (has a filter) or not, before taking it apart ?
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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It does have a separate fuel filter between the high pressure pump and the fuel rail.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 12:18 PM
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Yo,
A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..." Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Got the accumulator off. Had to cut it off with a grinder. No filter but it looks like the in tank pump is the problem. No fuel when the key is turned. I'm going to drop the tank and make sure it's the pump not the wiring.
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