Died after a car wash and wont start now - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Died after a car wash and wont start now

Hello, all.

I decided to go through an automatic car wash for the first time in my '91 bronco 5.8L. Boy was that a bad idea. I went through and everything went smoothly. I left the bronco running and then did some vacuuming up for a minute then hit the road again. About a quarter mile down the road my truck sputtered and ran really rough, so I pulled onto a side street as the bronco proceeded to die. I tried starting it back up and no it was no going. I thought it might have been the fuel filter (I knew it was going bad), so i ran to the Autozone that was a half mile down the road and then changed that on the side of the street. The bronc started up but kept wanting to die. I could keep it running by feathering the throttle, but once I put it in gear then it died again. So my buddy towed me home. I tried doing some research and going through the forums. I found something that might work and have still had no luck. The bronco now has a new fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator. If I try to start the bronco now then it will just turn over but not start. My buddy poured a little fuel in the the intake tubing and down into the TB and then I tried starting the bronco. It started right up and ran for a second, until all the fuel poured in was gone, then the bronco would die on me. I'm not sure what the problem is. Seems to be a fuel problem. I'm thinking maybe injectors aren't working properly because something got wet during the car wash, or the wash cause some other kind of electrical issue. Any and all help would be much appreciated.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:04 PM
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pull your distributor cap and see if there's any moisture in there. If there is, give it a hit of wd40, that will displace the moisture.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:08 PM
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^^ Willing to bet there is water in the distributor like jermill said!

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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That was one of the first things I checked when I was on the side of the road. It seemed fine to me. I can go ahead and hit it with some WD-40 anyways if you think it'll change anything.

Also, the air filter seemed dry too.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:22 PM
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If you sprayed fuel in TB and it ran for a bit then your ignition should be fine. Try pulling codes. Sounds like a sensor got wet. A sensor like a MAP will tell the computer what fuel/air mixture to send. If MAP goes out, then it'll send wrong mixture. Your '91 MAP sensor is on the passenger side firewall right below the windshield wiper. It could've gotten wet.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:23 PM
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check the condition of the plug wires as well..if they're cracked that could also be causing your problem.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:53 PM
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Dumb question, and I'm sure you checked, but are you getting fuel at the rail/injectors? You could always just tap the stem in the Schrader valve to see if your rail is getting pressurized. It may have nothing to do with the car wash and water, but your tank sending unit may be going out. The gauge may be affected also and you may be out of gas while your gauge reads, well, not empty. I ran out of gas once (it acted just like you describe - feathering the pedal and all) because my gauge read 3/8 of a tank and it was empty.


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makersneat View Post
If you sprayed fuel in TB and it ran for a bit then your ignition should be fine. Try pulling codes. Sounds like a sensor got wet. A sensor like a MAP will tell the computer what fuel/air mixture to send. If MAP goes out, then it'll send wrong mixture. Your '91 MAP sensor is on the passenger side firewall right below the windshield wiper. It could've gotten wet.
I'll check that. How would I know if it's bad? I guess check with a multimeter when I turn the key?

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check the condition of the plug wires as well..if they're cracked that could also be causing your problem.
Plugs look good still.

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Originally Posted by MS88Bronc View Post
Dumb question, and I'm sure you checked, but are you getting fuel at the rail/injectors? You could always just tap the stem in the Schrader valve to see if your rail is getting pressurized. It may have nothing to do with the car wash and water, but your tank sending unit may be going out. The gauge may be affected also and you may be out of gas while your gauge reads, well, not empty. I ran out of gas once (it acted just like you describe - feathering the pedal and all) because my gauge read 3/8 of a tank and it was empty.


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Yeah, I checked and wasn't getting much fuel. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and then it started to spray out like it's supposed to. Got a brand new pump in the tank too.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:38 PM
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Yo BrokenBlades,
As suggested by makersneat try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
Some basics;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50 F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180 F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test if you can get it running long enough..

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO & post any codes found.

Part 1 -How to Test the Fuel Pump (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

Some no code suspects by Ford;
Fuel Quality; "Put a sample (say 5 to 10 ounces) of the fuel into a clear glass container. Let it sit. If it separates into two layers, you have water in the fuel. Shown: an obviously contrived example of gasoline (10% ethanol) with approximately 2 ounces of water added - water has visibly sunk to the bottom of the jar." See pic. by fuel system - Test Gasoline for Water Content - Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Stack Exchange

Long shots:
Inertia Switch wiring or switch malfunction inside passenger side kick panel.

Electrical Connectors; inspect at coil, injectors, MAP Sensor, Air Charge Temperature [ACT], Idle Air Control (IAC). especially those with broken locking tabs.

...

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, Miesk5!

I can try to get it running long enough to run some codes, but my buddy removed the negative battery terminal. I check and it was off all night. So whatever codes it had have probably been cleared now.

I didn't even think about the fuel being bad. When I went out on me I had a full tank that I filled up from the same place I normally fill up. I dropped the tank this weekend and replaced the fuel pump, and I siphoned out all the gas into my friends truck. He hasn't complained yet. I put about 4 gallons of the fuel from my tank back into it and about 5 gallons that another buddy brought over with him.

I will check those electrical connectors when I get a chance.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:32 PM
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Hope this link works but it'll tell how to test the MAP.

Also, the MAP works off vacuum, so if you had moisture going through the air filter then perhaps some moisture got into the vacuum line, which goes into the MAP. An air filter that has lost it's filament and allows dirt to get into the vacuum will cause this to happen as well. I know cuz it happened to my K&N. I was wondering why my MAP kept going out.

Part 1 -How to Test the MAP Sensor With a Multimeter (2.8L Chevy S10, GMC S15)

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:33 PM
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Sorry, that was the GMC.

Here's the Ford

Part 1 -Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP Sensor Test (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:10 PM
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Sounds like you have done a lot of work.
I had almost the same thing happen to me. I got water under the hood cleaning up after replacing a bad radiator.
It would not start. The weather was cool and most likely raining. I knew it wasn't a coincidence, but the way the weather was, it was not going to dry out by itself.
So, I placed a heat lamp under the hood for two days. It started right up after that, and I haven't ha an issue since.
I'll never know what exactly got wet, but the heat lamp dried everything out.

Derek
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:36 PM
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I may be way off here, but I was either doing a heater core or just cleaning my truck one day and accidentally hit the fuel cutoff switch on the passenger side I believe it's under the dash. It's a shot in the dark but maybe you hit it while cleaning or vacuuming in that area?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:02 AM
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Make sure battery connections are clean and tight first and foremost. Good?

Test for spark with an actual spark tester, can't always trust just a screwdriver arcing to a grounded surface. Good solid spark?

Test fuel pressure at rail with actual gauge, not by just depressing the schrader valve. Constant ~50psi? (that exact number could be wrong someone please correct me if so) Whether the truck dies, runs or doesn't start at all, the reading should stay constant and not immediately bleed off.

Get back to us after these and let us know what happens.

"Oh man, lodged where??"
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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I forgot to reply to this the other day, but the issue has been fixed. It turned out to be the MAP sensor. Thanks for everyone's help!
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:09 AM
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Yo BrokenBlades,
Great & Thanks for the update!

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
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