Fuel Pump upgrade 125LPH- 255LPH - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 76 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 05:15 PM
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02Mustang GT 3.73's diablo prog. no cats cherrybomb extremes, K&N CAI TFS udp MGW short throw frpp lowering springs 13.4@101mph 1.8 60ft in 1/4 mile with minor wheel spin 94 bronco 4x4 xlt 6" rough country lift more coming
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post #62 of 76 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 08:39 PM
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No tuning or fuel pressure adjusting is required. The stock fuel pressure regulator should keep the pressure where it needs to be

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post #63 of 76 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 12:26 AM
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I wonder if i could get the plastic work some how? Anyone know?

02Mustang GT 3.73's diablo prog. no cats cherrybomb extremes, K&N CAI TFS udp MGW short throw frpp lowering springs 13.4@101mph 1.8 60ft in 1/4 mile with minor wheel spin 94 bronco 4x4 xlt 6" rough country lift more coming
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post #64 of 76 (permalink) Old 10-26-2013, 12:05 PM
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So to all of you that have done this mod, how are these pumps working out ? I love the customization and I am probably in the market for a new fuel pump soon.

Mine is getting loud as hell, I know that doesnt mean that its failure is imminent but its not exactly comforting either. I will probably get the walbro 190. Thanks

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post #65 of 76 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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post #66 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossind View Post
cool, same here very quiet/
I was concern about removing the slosh can, though I might have problems in the corners or steep grades on low fuel, turned out to not be a problem.
BAM! Found it. Ii was looking for this post as I remembered reading this when doing my research. I think I may be having this exact problem. I just put in a Walbro and it's stalling during hard acceleration and turns.
My thread here (I did not do a writeup but it's the same as yours)

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post #67 of 76 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 09:36 AM
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I know this is an older thread but this is a pretty brilliant idea. I went with one of the newer Aeromotive 340 in tank pumps, they run 112 from jegs. I will have to take a couple snap shots when I throw it back together. I just assume add them to this thread if the OP has no argument against that?
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post #68 of 76 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scparrish View Post
I know this is an older thread but this is a pretty brilliant idea. I went with one of the newer Aeromotive 340 in tank pumps, they run 112 from jegs. I will have to take a couple snap shots when I throw it back together. I just assume add them to this thread if the OP has no argument against that?
I ain't a moderator

but to me it seems like the place to put it, being so related to this here thread....an all.

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post #69 of 76 (permalink) Old 03-07-2016, 09:15 AM
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That's what I assumed.
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post #70 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 10:19 PM
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post #71 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 02:32 AM
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i recently upgraded to a Walbro 255lph in my 96 to support my 425w. its been working great soo far. its defiantly alittle noisier than stock when you tuen the key but i dont hear it over my engine. i tried for awhile to modify the stock pump housing to fit it but it jsut wasnt working and wasnt worth it. i used a section of all-thread rod and a few hose clamps to mount my pump.

2 things to look out for:
defiantly want to make sure you use EFI fuel hose. its rated for higher pressure than standard fuel hose. i alos used some to lower the return line so it wont splash when tank is low
make sure the pump you use has a built-in check valve. some pumps may not and might drain the fuel back into the tank causing longer startup. the original one was inside the housing, not the pump. the Wlabro is insid ethe pump


-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
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post #72 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 04:17 AM
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Hey Kingfish, I ran a setup like yours for a couple years on my 89 and learned the hard way. Even EFI rated fuel hose, is not rated for submersion in fuel. It starts to fall apart after a while. The stuff rated for submersion is significantly more expensive.

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post #73 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 01:36 PM
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Wow this is an old post but needs some updating as far as connection hose is concerned. With most gasoline now having up to 10% ethanol, hose problems have shown up. Even gasoline that claims to be "Pure Gas" can contain up to 5% Ethanol. Ethanol will attack almost all rubber type hoses. Gates does make an Ethanol compatible hose rated for submersion and non submerged. There is a catch though to Ethanol safe hoses. Even though the hose is rated Ethanol safe for submersion there are problems with the hose in submerged use. The inner and outer lining of the hose is Ethanol compatible. BUT it is what is in center layers of the hose that is NOT compatible with Ethanol. The cut ends of the hose allows the Ethanol to wick up in between the layers. The center layers become weak and start to dissolve. As far as I know a solution to this problem has not been found.

Instead of using Part Store type hoses, that will, no matter what the rating, fail. I recommend using an OEM solution that will give years of trouble free life. OEMs have been using clear or black nylon type tubing for years. There is a flexible type that is an excellent solution.

Racetronix - Fuel Feed - Tubes - Plastic
Submersible PTFE Fuel Tubing
They have preformed ends that slip over the metal tube and fuel pump outlet. Yes they are longer and can not be cut. If you use these you want to use one long enough to make a loop without having any kinks. Longer is better. You will want to use some type of clamp on each end. Whatever you use it should be Stainless and smooth on the inside. Screw type clamps are fine as long as the notches are on the outside of the clamp only. Inside must be SMOOTH. No need to put a gorilla grip on the clamp it only needs to be snug. You can heat the ends if needed to be easy to slip on. Use boiling water or hot air. NO FLAME as you will melt the tube.

Both links are excellent suppliers. Racetronix does not offer larger tubes but longer assortment. Radium offers two sizes that appear to be the correct length needed to make a good loop. They also come with the clamps needed. Radium is nice enough to provide a table of pumps and what size they use. If my memory is right the metal tube of the pickup is 3/8 inch. You can try the heat method to slip the 5/16 inch tubing over the steel tube but I do not recommend it.

On the pump side you do not want to force a tube too small onto the spout of the pump. If you force it, then try later to remove it you will break the tip off the spout or break the whole spout off the pump. Both void everybody's pump warranty. This is why you need clamps.
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post #74 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 03:44 PM
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Here is some cut to fit - glad you brought this up! I am in the process of putting a aeromotive 340 onto 89 pick up and was just going to use the hose supplied in the package.

https://liquidironindustries.com/3-8...Fuel-Line.html


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post #75 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the additional link. They call that 3/8 tubing becareful it has a 5/16" ID it will not slip over the metal tube of the pickup. It did remind me of the OEM plastic fuel lines. It maybe possible to use them. I have never tried them submerged in a tank but do know the ID is compatible with modern fuels. Dorman does offer OEM fuel line repair kits that you can find at any parts store.

Some warning about that site: It does not have a secure check out. Also a 1 foot piece of tubing is $8.00 it was $14 shipping and tax. Can do better going to parts store.
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post #76 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 12:40 PM
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Glad to see some updates here! I was just about to go to the parts store to grab the fuel line and went back to this thread to double check measurements. Just ordered both size kits from Radium. Thank you!
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