After my Saginaw swap last week the engine room got much quieter---which of course meant I found a new annoying noise. Using a 30 inch piece of 1/2" black hose I narrowed the culprit down to the smog pump, which was sounding a lot like six rocks in a rotating coffee can. After missing an Ebay Cardone #32-301 for like twenty bucks, and then getting prices from $60 to $150 and up, I decided to take mine off and see what I could do with it..........
1). For some reason my pump hangs from just one upper 9/16" (head size) bolt (right under the alty bracket), and there is no lower bolt used. Instead, the pressure from the idler pulley/tensioner pulls the body of the pump towards the center of the motor where it sits against the bolt from the timing mark indicator. Very strange. Anyways, to get started you'll need 5/16" nut driver or a flat tipped screwdriver to remove the 2 hose clamps. My hoses slipped right off with just a little bit of twisting. Now get a 3/8" ratchet and a short 6 point
10mm socket to crack the three small bolts on the front of the pulley. Loosen these 3/4 of a turn and then put your large crescent wrench on the tensioner bolt to remove the fan belt. When the belt is off you can then remove pulley and then the upper bolt, finally lowering the pump down with one hand.
(I started to remove the bolt here before I realized that the pulley needed to come off first, due to the fact that it's about 5" long).
Here's a pic of how my pump could swing left and right after the bolt was loosened a bit. You should be able to see the bolt/stud by the timing mark that keeps the pump in place. Personally I think this is not a good thing because with only one bolt holding it on there's some slop that can allow the pump to twist off centered a bit. Bad for the bearings methinks.
2). Here's the pump out of the truck.
3). There's four 1" long bolts holding the rear cover on. You'll only need a 3/8" ratchet and a half inch 6 point socket on these. After they're removed the rear cover will still be on pretty tight. It's got two locating dowel pins in in the housing, one that's a 1/4" and the other that's 3/8". Even though I marked the two pieces with scratch marks it's not neccessary with the 2 different size pins.
Here's the rear cover just starting to come off after I tapped the edges with a flat point punch. After it started to open up up I went around the perimeter with a thin flat tipped screwdriver until it opened up about a half inch.
And here's what you're going to find once the rear cover is off. If you're paying attention you'll notice that the long 1/2" diameter shaft is fixed and does not move. Keep this in mind, because the 2 pump 'wind' vanes go over this thing.
Here's the inside of the body that shows the 2 'wind' vanes (that are actually the pump blades). They kinda interlock over each other and the shaft thing goes right thru all four sections. They also have a total of four little cage bearings in them, but since I didn't remove them I never got the part numbers for them.
4). After the 4 rear bolts are removed and the rear cover (with the fixed rod is out) it's time to tackle the front end. The round goody that has the three holes in it and that holds the pulley needs to come off next. You'll need to get creative here if you don't have all of the proper tools, but this is what I used;
5). Here's the front of the pump after removing the round goody that goes over the 1/2" shaft and that holds the pulley. This bearing in an NSK #6203DU2. Mine was good so I merely sprayed some brake cleaner on it, let her dry and then dribbled some 20 weigh oil on her, hoping that it got to the guts of it.
6). Next I removed the rear steel ring that holds the rear bearing. This bearing only has this stamped on it;
Not sure if this a proprietary one or not (since the NSK bearing would probably NOT be, given the numbers on it) but regardless, it's much different as it's an open cage type. So again I cleaned it with degreaser, let her sit for a while before LIGHTLY blowing her clean with some air and then repacked it like you would a wheel bearing.
Caution!! This is the part of the movie where I wasn't paying too much attention to-----first off before you go ape shit with the slide hammer you need to really take a good look at the position of the 2 blades/vanes, the position of the 4 long skinny pieces of black fiberglass/carbon(?) that fit into the the spaces on either side of the vanes and the 4 slightly crescant shaped pieces of f-glass/carbon that go on both ends of that vane cavity. The reason I say this is because (as you'll see) the 4 long fiberglass pieces are not perfectly rectangled, but have a slight angle on them as well as a slightly curved/eased edge. When you use the slide hammer (and the blades are in a position where they can move around very freely in that cavity---bad) they'll bounce around, and then out. I finally realized this when I was trying to reassemble everything---there's nothing on the 'Net that shows a picture---so I had to guess. Unfortunately I did not guess correctly, but I'll tell you about that later;
(In retropect after looking at this picture a bit better, I can see that the 3 armed hooks on the slide hammer seem like they could easily damage the Torrington bearing when I pulled off the rear cover. As you can see they sit perfectly on the rim of the bearing cage---ungood...........
7). Ok now, I've cleaned out the housing and the shaft and everything else I could. Unlike a lot of people I did not find a whole lot of carbon build-up inside mine....which tells me that it very well might not be the original unit. The nice condition of the Ford tag on the outside of the pump body may be a clue also.
As you can also see in the following pics I went against everything I read (too late of course) and lubed up all 6 bearings as well as some of the mating surfaces. This may come back to haunt me at a later date so I'll apprise everyone of what happens later;
(Here's one of the 4 small crescent-shaped pieces that slide down the metal slot guide things. You'll need to put 2 of them in first (one in each slot) and then install the 4 long skinny pieces along with the vanes. After you do that you can put in the upper 2 crescent pieces before re0installing the rear bearing holder and the bearing assembly;
Here's one of the vanes floating inside after the clean and lube. I'll be honest with you all, I had a hell of a time getting both of the vanes, the 4 long skinny pieces, the 4 small crescent shaped pieces and
the friggen 2 metal spring things all lined up so that I could not only re-install the rear bearing and cover but slide the 'axle' shaft and rear cover back onto the body without everything bouncing around and falling out of place. Hmmm, just try and take your time and maybe have someone give you a hand at this point;
Here's one of the 4 small pieces being pushed downwards. Remember, 2 at the bottom, 2 at the top over the long ones'
(Here's a couple of pics of one of the 4 long skinny pieces. As you can see they have an intersting shape, flat on three sides but curved on the fourth----and like the idiot I am I did not pay attention as to their proper position. So again, have someone help you out and take notes);
(I highly doubt that these are in the right position);
(So I moved them around. You'll also see one of the 2 springs about to be inserted. Again I didn't notice it's original orientation so I just guessed which side to put them in. Crap. Oh yeah, I haven't a clue why there are not 4 springs instead of two. Crap again);
(Here's a pic right before I aligned everything up the best I could and re-installed the rear cover);
Here's the rear bearing carrier and bearing about to be re-installed. I used a rubber mallet and just tapped it down gently (after I lightly sanded the mating surfaces and applied a thin layer of grease on it) You need to get this piece fully down flush with the body housing;
Rear cover re-installed;
And the pulley holder back on as well. Make sure you don't press this on too far as it could hit the pump body. I think I left about 3/32" clearance;