Dissecting the E5TE-DB smog pump... - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Dissecting the E5TE-DB smog pump...

After my Saginaw swap last week the engine room got much quieter---which of course meant I found a new annoying noise. Using a 30 inch piece of 1/2" black hose I narrowed the culprit down to the smog pump, which was sounding a lot like six rocks in a rotating coffee can. After missing an Ebay Cardone #32-301 for like twenty bucks, and then getting prices from $60 to $150 and up, I decided to take mine off and see what I could do with it..........


1). For some reason my pump hangs from just one upper 9/16" (head size) bolt (right under the alty bracket), and there is no lower bolt used. Instead, the pressure from the idler pulley/tensioner pulls the body of the pump towards the center of the motor where it sits against the bolt from the timing mark indicator. Very strange. Anyways, to get started you'll need 5/16" nut driver or a flat tipped screwdriver to remove the 2 hose clamps. My hoses slipped right off with just a little bit of twisting. Now get a 3/8" ratchet and a short 6 point 10mm socket to crack the three small bolts on the front of the pulley. Loosen these 3/4 of a turn and then put your large crescent wrench on the tensioner bolt to remove the fan belt. When the belt is off you can then remove pulley and then the upper bolt, finally lowering the pump down with one hand.

(I started to remove the bolt here before I realized that the pulley needed to come off first, due to the fact that it's about 5" long).



Here's a pic of how my pump could swing left and right after the bolt was loosened a bit. You should be able to see the bolt/stud by the timing mark that keeps the pump in place. Personally I think this is not a good thing because with only one bolt holding it on there's some slop that can allow the pump to twist off centered a bit. Bad for the bearings methinks.









2). Here's the pump out of the truck.






3). There's four 1" long bolts holding the rear cover on. You'll only need a 3/8" ratchet and a half inch 6 point socket on these. After they're removed the rear cover will still be on pretty tight. It's got two locating dowel pins in in the housing, one that's a 1/4" and the other that's 3/8". Even though I marked the two pieces with scratch marks it's not neccessary with the 2 different size pins.




Here's the rear cover just starting to come off after I tapped the edges with a flat point punch. After it started to open up up I went around the perimeter with a thin flat tipped screwdriver until it opened up about a half inch.






And here's what you're going to find once the rear cover is off. If you're paying attention you'll notice that the long 1/2" diameter shaft is fixed and does not move. Keep this in mind, because the 2 pump 'wind' vanes go over this thing.



Here's the inside of the body that shows the 2 'wind' vanes (that are actually the pump blades). They kinda interlock over each other and the shaft thing goes right thru all four sections. They also have a total of four little cage bearings in them, but since I didn't remove them I never got the part numbers for them.



4). After the 4 rear bolts are removed and the rear cover (with the fixed rod is out) it's time to tackle the front end. The round goody that has the three holes in it and that holds the pulley needs to come off next. You'll need to get creative here if you don't have all of the proper tools, but this is what I used;
















5). Here's the front of the pump after removing the round goody that goes over the 1/2" shaft and that holds the pulley. This bearing in an NSK #6203DU2. Mine was good so I merely sprayed some brake cleaner on it, let her dry and then dribbled some 20 weigh oil on her, hoping that it got to the guts of it.




6). Next I removed the rear steel ring that holds the rear bearing. This bearing only has this stamped on it;

'Torrington HHHHH'

Not sure if this a proprietary one or not (since the NSK bearing would probably NOT be, given the numbers on it) but regardless, it's much different as it's an open cage type. So again I cleaned it with degreaser, let her sit for a while before LIGHTLY blowing her clean with some air and then repacked it like you would a wheel bearing.

Caution!! This is the part of the movie where I wasn't paying too much attention to-----first off before you go ape shit with the slide hammer you need to really take a good look at the position of the 2 blades/vanes, the position of the 4 long skinny pieces of black fiberglass/carbon(?) that fit into the the spaces on either side of the vanes and the 4 slightly crescant shaped pieces of f-glass/carbon that go on both ends of that vane cavity. The reason I say this is because (as you'll see) the 4 long fiberglass pieces are not perfectly rectangled, but have a slight angle on them as well as a slightly curved/eased edge. When you use the slide hammer (and the blades are in a position where they can move around very freely in that cavity---bad) they'll bounce around, and then out. I finally realized this when I was trying to reassemble everything---there's nothing on the 'Net that shows a picture---so I had to guess. Unfortunately I did not guess correctly, but I'll tell you about that later;



(In retropect after looking at this picture a bit better, I can see that the 3 armed hooks on the slide hammer seem like they could easily damage the Torrington bearing when I pulled off the rear cover. As you can see they sit perfectly on the rim of the bearing cage---ungood...........












7). Ok now, I've cleaned out the housing and the shaft and everything else I could. Unlike a lot of people I did not find a whole lot of carbon build-up inside mine....which tells me that it very well might not be the original unit. The nice condition of the Ford tag on the outside of the pump body may be a clue also.

As you can also see in the following pics I went against everything I read (too late of course) and lubed up all 6 bearings as well as some of the mating surfaces. This may come back to haunt me at a later date so I'll apprise everyone of what happens later;

(Here's one of the 4 small crescent-shaped pieces that slide down the metal slot guide things. You'll need to put 2 of them in first (one in each slot) and then install the 4 long skinny pieces along with the vanes. After you do that you can put in the upper 2 crescent pieces before re0installing the rear bearing holder and the bearing assembly;




Here's one of the vanes floating inside after the clean and lube. I'll be honest with you all, I had a hell of a time getting both of the vanes, the 4 long skinny pieces, the 4 small crescent shaped pieces and the friggen 2 metal spring things all lined up so that I could not only re-install the rear bearing and cover but slide the 'axle' shaft and rear cover back onto the body without everything bouncing around and falling out of place. Hmmm, just try and take your time and maybe have someone give you a hand at this point;



Here's one of the 4 small pieces being pushed downwards. Remember, 2 at the bottom, 2 at the top over the long ones'




(Here's a couple of pics of one of the 4 long skinny pieces. As you can see they have an intersting shape, flat on three sides but curved on the fourth----and like the idiot I am I did not pay attention as to their proper position. So again, have someone help you out and take notes);





(I highly doubt that these are in the right position);





(So I moved them around. You'll also see one of the 2 springs about to be inserted. Again I didn't notice it's original orientation so I just guessed which side to put them in. Crap. Oh yeah, I haven't a clue why there are not 4 springs instead of two. Crap again);



(Here's a pic right before I aligned everything up the best I could and re-installed the rear cover);



Here's the rear bearing carrier and bearing about to be re-installed. I used a rubber mallet and just tapped it down gently (after I lightly sanded the mating surfaces and applied a thin layer of grease on it) You need to get this piece fully down flush with the body housing;



Rear cover re-installed;



And the pulley holder back on as well. Make sure you don't press this on too far as it could hit the pump body. I think I left about 3/32" clearance;










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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry gentlemen, this write-up is gonna be under edit for a while-----PhotoBucket is acting up very badly right now...........

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 01:15 PM
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dude, its not supposed to rest against the bolt like that. you are missing a bracket with an s-shaped bend in it...

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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dude, its not supposed to rest against the bolt like that. you are missing a bracket with an s-shaped bend in it...

Thanks Andy, after getting into this project yesterday I kinda figured as much.

Btw, you got one?...........

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 12:09 AM
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Another option is to just spray some flowable grease into the 2 vent holes in the back. This one at 1:00:

...and this one in the center, which is recessed in the crescent:

The outer one will lube the vanes where they slide in & out of the cylinder, and the center one will lube the rear bearings & the vane pivots.


If the pump has already seized, begin with a HEALTHY dose of penetrating oil, followed by a shot of motor oil, then the grease.

Bear in mind that it WILL eventually work its way into the exhaust, so expect some smoke & elevated HCs for a while.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 11:00 AM
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Thanks Andy, after getting into this project yesterday I kinda figured as much.

Btw, you got one?...........
i might have one kicking around the garage. i just replaced my smog pump. i'll take a look

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by moz_21 View Post
Hmm.. Maybe I'll try lubing mine first. I didn't realise there were vent holes near the bearing. I had tried putting some motor oil down the intake but it did no good. Definitely thanks for the disassembly info.

Yeah Moz, Steve's idea seems pretty sound. I'm thinking that the easist method would be to just pull off the pump (mine came off in less than 3 minutes) and then place it on a flat surface with the shaft pointing straight down. Then start with the penetrating oil or maybe some 10 weight stuff and let it slowly drip through and down the shaft to get to the 4 small bearings in the vanes. But you may have to tilt the pump on an angle to do so since the shaft is off-centered. That oil MAY also reach the sealed NSK bearing at the very front though I have doubts that it will penetrate much.

Afterwards it may be a good thing to lay the pump on her side so that you could get some more oil into the the rear cage bearing (which is open, unlike the NSK). Then maybe let the whole thing marinate over night, slowly spinning the shaft so as to get the oil to where it needs to go, and then lastly position the pump so that the excess oil drips out one of the two openings where the air hoses go.

Have fun..........

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-17-2009, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RickyB View Post
Yeah Moz, Steve's idea seems pretty sound. I'm thinking that the easist method would be to just pull off the pump (mine came off in less than 3 minutes) and then place it on a flat surface with the shaft pointing straight down. Then start with the penetrating oil or maybe some 10 weight stuff and let it slowly drip through and down the shaft to get to the 4 small bearings in the vanes. But you may have to tilt the pump on an angle to do so since the shaft is off-centered. That oil MAY also reach the sealed NSK bearing at the very front though I have doubts that it will penetrate much.

Afterwards it may be a good thing to lay the pump on her side so that you could get some more oil into the the rear cage bearing (which is open, unlike the NSK). Then maybe let the whole thing marinate over night, slowly spinning the shaft so as to get the oil to where it needs to go, and then lastly position the pump so that the excess oil drips out one of the two openings where the air hoses go.

Have fun..........
Where the helled my post go?
I'll give that a try once it's warm enough out.

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-17-2009, 02:16 PM
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found the bracket, send me your address and i'll zip it off in the mail

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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A quic little update-----after putting about 300 miles on the 'rebuilt, re-lubed' smog pump, my steam engine noise/vane slapping has almost completely disappeared, yet the pump is still sucking air very well thru the intake hose.

I'm thinking that like the original Ford label on the pump said "500 mile break-in required" that that's just what this one did again, allowing the vanes to bang around, deburr themselves and settle down.

Anyways, I'm stoked. Bring on the next project..........

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 01:29 PM
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RickyB, you said that yours locked up recently after this?? Yay. Mine was quiet for a couple days, but the squeaking came back. It's not as bad as it was but...

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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RickyB, you said that yours locked up recently after this?? Yay. Mine was quiet for a couple days, but the squeaking came back. It's not as bad as it was but...

Oh yeah Moz, it sure did lock up. Big time. I haven't got around to pulling it off yet (cuz it's been raining) to assess the damage or the cause but I have a sneaking suspicion it may have frozen up because the longer belt I put on after wards was probably still and inch too short. I'm saying that cuz my idler/tensioner pulley was swung almost all the way up and to the right)pointing at the a/c pump) and my first guess is that the short/tight belt put too much side pressure on the smog pump, frying the bearings or something.

I'll try to get into it later today or tomorrow and post the bloody carnage pics..............

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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-14-2009, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Alright folks, here's a little update that I've been meaning to get around to. I'm sure a few of you probably know that the 'operation' was not quite as successful as I hoped. About 5 weeks after doing this my pump seized up-----totally. Thankfully it was on start up and not while I was driving, but it doesn't matter much now. Anyways after giving a lot of thought on what caused this damage the jury is still out on why it happened. It was either the new belt that I used that was still maybe an inch too short (because the tensioner pulley was almost all the way up, pointing to 3 o'clock) OR it was because I screwed up reinstalling the bearings, or more importantly the 2 fiberglass 'vanes'. But whatever the reason I've come to the conclusion that tearing into these smog pumps is probably not worth the time and effort----unless you have had actual experience at the factory itself......


So here's some pics of the carnage. Today I finally just grabbed a used one out of the junk yard for $15.00 so I'm gonna stick it on tonite.......















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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 02:21 AM
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I was gonna ask about gutting it and going from there...but no...
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnumpi View Post
if the smog pump remains non functioning long enough it can cause the CAT. to clog up.
I guess I will have to rebuild mine. it only lasted 188K miles. or buy a new used one from the boneyard.

Thanks for the info Rick

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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-23-2009, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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I was gonna ask about gutting it and going from there...but no...


I guess I will have to rebuild mine. it only lasted 188K miles. or buy a new used one from the boneyard.

Thanks for the info Rick

I'm sure under the proper parental supervision, it CAN be done correctly C----but I obviously phayled. If you can callPYP and see when their next big sale is.............

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 12:38 AM
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Thanks Rickey

Thanks RickyB

I am reading your post in in June 2010. My 87 Lincoln Conti seems to have dry bearings in the smog pump, only discovered because I had the original alternator, mounted just above it, start making loud noises. This was strange because I had the original rebuilt at a local Generator starter shop in Aug of 2009. Taking off the belt, found the alt to spin freely, but felt like bearings were dry. The same for the smog pump. Took the Alt back and they replaced the bearings out of good faith.

Since I had a smog pump on a 76 Monarch freeze up, I want to avoid the same on the wife's Conti. Your excellent write up and photos are the only source I have found about what is in these pumps. I have 9 Ford repair volumes for 1987, the ones that have anything at all about Lincoln Conti's. Nothing I can find about the pumps in any off these. Your thread is great.

Since you posted this several years ago, you may not read this, But I want to thank you for going to effort to share this info with the world. Now, thanks to you, I think I will contact the various Jobber houses (parts dealers to you young folks) to see if I can find a source of "life time" smog pumps, since I keep my vehicles a long time. (I still have my first car, my first wife, and worked for the same agency for over 40 years, I do not make big changes often.) Thanks again if you read this.

Last edited by fsbjme; 06-09-2010 at 12:41 AM. Reason: punctuation
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 09:06 AM
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I agree. Thanks for the in depth writeup, RickyB. I may have found a way to save the pump off of my friends F250.
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I agree. Thanks for the in depth writeup, RickyB. I may have found a way to save the pump off of my friends F250.


I'm glad both of you guys found this helpful. My only other suggestion would be that you have someone else with you before you start the surgery who can shoot better pics---just so that you can refer back more accurately exactly how the vanes are oriented and the other little parts & pieces that are inside.

Have fun, Kidz, and be sure to report back with your results.........

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 01:10 AM
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Why didn't you just keep it off and plug the holes with 9/16 bolts? Seems like it would be easier.

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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 01:44 AM
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