fuel pump access panel - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.E.D. Lee Cynn View Post
why not mig the old peice back in?
The entire point of cutting it to begin with is to have ACCESS. If you hold on to your Bronco long enough, you'll need to get to it again eventually.

If you weld it back up, you'll have to cut it all over again later.

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 07:50 PM
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+2 I did mine this way also. BTW I did have to go back in a couple of days later due to not getting the gasket/seal correct.
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 10:44 AM
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a very helpful thread! i think i'll be using this tonight when i pull my pump.

There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. Some kind of high powered mutant never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 11:13 AM
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yo,
For a new Access Panel Source
by a SPONSOR; Patch Panel, 48in. x 16in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard


Also get a new lock ring & seal
Sending Unit Lock Ring 2" # 30240 New
1980-89 Bronco 1980-86 Ford Truck Price: $5.00


Sending Unit Seal 2" # 30241 New 1980-89 Bronco 1980-85 Ford Truck Price: $1.00
Sending Unit Lock Ring, 3 5/8" # 30242 New 1990-96 Bronco 1986-96 Ford Truck Price: $5.00

Sending Unit Lock Ring, 3 5/8" # 30242 New 1990-96 Bronco 1986-96 Ford Truck Price: $5.00

Sending Unit Seal 3 5/8" # 30243 New 1990-96 Bronco 1986-96 Ford Truck Price: $2.00

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 01:59 PM
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I love the idea of it, but knowing my luck, I will ding, spark, and ignite myself...won't be pretty.

Betty WILL run....
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20sNaRanger View Post
I love the idea of it, but knowing my luck, I will ding, spark, and ignite myself...won't be pretty.
Yo,
Esp. if the fuel line or ring/tank neck is damaged and there is a pool of gas waiting for something special to happen.

If you still would like the access panel, ask for a price from local mom & pop body shop. Those guys & gals love to chop & cut.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 11:29 PM
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A cautionary tale for anyone attempting this, or other fuel tank surgeries. A friend of a friend some years ago blew himself sky high while working on a fuel tank. The fuel pump hatch is an excellent idea. I would suggest to anyone that dropping the tank while sawing adjacent sheet metal is worth the extra labor if it saves your life.
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 12:01 AM
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I just did this "access panel" thing today (got it done about 4 hours or so ago). I went over to a friend's house in case I needed help (hindsight and all, I probably could have did it at home, but I was kinda glad to do it there).

Anyhow - some suggestions for others who might want to attempt this mod:

1. Loosen the skid plate rear bolts, then remove the front outer bolts and put a couple of long ones in place (same diameter and such - 9/16" - just longer), but snug the nuts up to the same level, then remove the inner two bolts. Then slowly unscrew the outer two to lower the tank/skidplate down (and let it hang). This will give you some extra room to pull the plug (and/or the fuel line if you wish - but I'd leave it on first - no need to spill fuel if you don't have to). When you are done, just reverse the process to snug everything up.

2. Take a piece of steel or aluminium and put it over the the tank/sender location, covering the plug connection, fuel line connect, vapor return hose connection (if you have it), etc. Then, as an extra precaution, put a wet towel over the top of that. I actually used a wet piece of office carpet (my friend has a ton of these squares that we use for all kinds of things).

3. Measure your cut lines, etc - then cut it out; I used a right-angle grinder with a cutting wheel. Wear eye protection (fair warning). I suppose you might be able to use a plasma torch, but it may make too much heat. I would NOT attempt a oxy-acetylene rig. Really, it's such thin steel, a cutting wheel works quick enough. Have a friend and a fire extinguisher around.

4. When done, remove the piece, then remove the wet towel/carpet and the metal plate.

5. Wipe down around the sender unit area (and blow out, etc) any excess dirt, dust, debris, etc - no sense in letting it fall in the tank!

6. To remove the ring, use something that won't spark. I used a foot-long piece of brass all-thread that I picked up at Ace Hardware. Aluminium rod might work as well (I decided on brass because it's a harder metal, and since the lock-ring is steel, it might dig into aluminium - but use what you can).

I used a sender unit from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. After removing the old sender (which had a completely rotten brass float - which promptly fell into the tank and I had to fish it out with a piece of wire), I found that getting the ring to fit properly was going to be a pain. With the new gasket in place, getting the ring's tabs under the tank tabs was challenging. I ended up taking a pair of pliers and slightly bent the corners of the lock-ring down, so that they would slide easier under the tank tabs. Worked like a charm.

Got everything back together, and once I fueled up - it was a success! All I have left to do now is install some hinges and such, maybe a rubber border (or something to close the gap), and it will be perfect. Right now, I just threw one of those carpet squares over the hole (not a daily driver at all - can't afford the gas!).

Anyhow - I want to thank everyone who posted about their mod here to give me the confidence to try it myself. I didn't catch on fire or blow up; I think if you use some common sense, and put the "shielding" like I did in place (oh - and dropping the tank to move it away from the cutting area), you'll probably not have any problems. Even so, again - keep a fire-extinguisher and friends close by!
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 01:39 AM
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I just did this a few weeks ago. bought a patch panel from another member, took my measurements, and went to town.
No need for your steps 1 or 2. You have about 1 3/4 inches clearance between the tank and the floor at the tightest point.
A properly adjusted jig saw blade made it a breeze, without messing the skid plate or tank bolts.


I also chose to cut my corners with a hole-bit to maintain the strength a little better.
Also gave me a good idea where the lines were and the ability to move them aside, if needed.


Hope you filled your fuel pump plug with fresh dielectric grease, along with that new seal and ring. p.o. didn't get the seal properly seated either.


The whole reason I went after mine is because the p.o. dropped the tank and replaced the pump and never did.
He also broke the secure clip and it was just enough to let what little old grease was in there dry out.
Every time it would get wet (heavy rains or puddle jumpin') it would die.



patch panel and basic instructions came from Steve83.



And they all wheeled happily ever after!
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Last edited by BikerPepe`; 05-12-2014 at 01:43 AM.
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
I just did this a few weeks ago. bought a patch panel from another member, took my measurements, and went to town.
No need for your steps 1 or 2. You have about 1 3/4 inches clearance between the tank and the floor at the tightest point.
A properly adjusted jig saw blade made it a breeze, without messing the skid plate or tank bolts.


I also chose to cut my corners with a hole-bit to maintain the strength a little better.
Also gave me a good idea where the lines were and the ability to move them aside, if needed.


Hope you filled your fuel pump plug with fresh dielectric grease, along with that new seal and ring. p.o. didn't get the seal properly seated either.


The whole reason I went after mine is because the p.o. dropped the tank and replaced the pump and never did.
He also broke the secure clip and it was just enough to let what little old grease was in there dry out.
Every time it would get wet (heavy rains or puddle jumpin') it would die.



patch panel and basic instructions came from Steve83.



And they all wheeled happily ever after!
I like this DIY post tech.

Subscribed .
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
I just did this a few weeks ago. bought a patch panel from another member, took my measurements, and went to town.
No need for your steps 1 or 2. You have about 1 3/4 inches clearance between the tank and the floor at the tightest point.
A properly adjusted jig saw blade made it a breeze, without messing the skid plate or tank bolts.


And they all wheeled happily ever after!
Do you have a body lift or is that stock?


The distance between the panel floor and the pump.

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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 02:22 PM
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no lift, body or otherwise. stock suspension minus front lvl coils... and fwiw, that's the '90 I've got up for sale, so it's already done for the next owner.
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
no lift, body or otherwise. stock suspension minus front lvl coils... and fwiw, that's the '90 I've got up for sale, so it's already done for the next owner.
Rock on !


I'll be doing this next month being that I've owned my Bronco for about 15 years and never replaced said fuel pump assembly.

Since I replaced/rebuilt most other worn parts I figure I'd be proactive and replace that as well, instead of waiting for it to die.
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:30 PM
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I just don't see how this is that much more convenient than dropping the tank. I can drop the tank in 30 mins and pulling the carpets, etc will take 15 mins.


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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:11 PM
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33 gallons of fuel and the filler neck connections Never fails on any vehicle I have owned the fuel pump fails soon after I fill the tank.
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jmandrumz View Post
A cautionary tale for anyone attempting this, or other fuel tank surgeries. A friend of a friend some years ago blew himself sky high while working on a fuel tank. The fuel pump hatch is an excellent idea. I would suggest to anyone that dropping the tank while sawing adjacent sheet metal is worth the extra labor if it saves your life.
We do this kind of stuff all the time at work, put a fan blowing air underneath and if have a small leak and vapors, they will blow away. but if you smell vapors then its too big of a leak to have any sparks around. You can also cover a battery with a wet towel any time you are cutting or welding under the hood.

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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 09:54 AM
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Redneck stitches

I haven't had to swap the fuel pump in the bronco yet, but just did one in my pickup. I used a saw as a flood of grinder sparks directly over a fuel tank seemed unwise. Stopped the two parrellel cuts at the same rib and bent the panel up for access.

Here's the redneck stitches part. I used plywood clips instead of flat strip steel. Bending the tabs on what is the tank side of the clip up towards the bed made it clip right on to the steel panel I bent up. Pushed it back down flat and used self tapping roofing screws to secure in place.
Went with clips because it puts a support both above and below the new seam.

I'd post a picture, but I'm new here and either can't find the method or am not allowed to yet.
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 12:56 PM
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Yo FirewoodMachine,
Look at your Introuction post @ Hello all.
I replied with info such as, How to POST PICTURES

BTW, very good info on the clips!

EDIT; START A NEW THREAD IN NOOBIE SECTION TO HELP BUILD YOUR POST COUNT AND GET MORE VISIBILITY

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

Last edited by miesk5; 03-27-2017 at 01:02 PM. Reason: EDIT; START A NEW THREAD IN NOOBIE SECTION TO HELP BUILD YOUR POST COUNT AND GET MORE VISIBILITY
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:02 AM
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Excellent thread. Im going to tag this for (near) future reference.

Thanks,

Eric
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2011 Mustang GT, 6 spd
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