fuel pump access panel - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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fuel pump access panel

My fuel pump went out on me a couple weeks ago and at the start of the replacement i had my sanity intact. So i tried to remove the gas tank. I got 6/8 bolts out before i rounded one off. I knew a few other people here had done fuel pump access panels and in my frustration thats what i did.

Tools needed: Phillips screw driver, grinder with a cut-off wheel, maybe a knife (i used one).

WARNING: FUEL IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!! LOTS OF CAUTION NEEDS TO BE USED WHEN DOING THIS AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEEDS TO BE WITHIN A ARMS REACH.

First lower your tailgate and unscrew the trim piece holding down the carpet.


After that is removed pull your carpet back as far as you can. Locate the two panels for the body mount bolts.


the fuel pump sits about 6-8 inches back from these access panels. So on your floor measure about 4-6 inches back to make your first cut. The fuel pump is directly in the center of the bed. so measure out about 10 inches in width and make your cuts. If you did it right you should see something like this once you remove the cutout of the floor


I havent got to a junkyard to cut me out a replacement panel yet that will cover the hole. Another way to cover it up would be to get 4 1"x2" pieces of sheet metal and use self tapping screws to secure the panel in place.

Fuel pump removal tips: the retainer ring holding the fuel pump in can be a pita to remove. after tapping it for about 10 minutes trying to get it to slide i used a chisel to bend the ring and ply it up. As long as you go slow and dont break the ring you can beat it back straight with a hammer.

I will update this thread once i build the replacement panel.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 06:10 PM
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Wish I had a grinder! Why not just screw some hinges into the piece you cut out? And maybe a some silicone or something to seal it?

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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here is an artist's rendition of what the patch panel will look like. it will have a silicone sealant along the seam.
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 10:08 AM
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Why not just overlap it about a 1/2"-3/4" on all 4 sides put a thin layer of silicone and rivet it in place and be careful not to drill into the tank. That way you could avoid one of the sheetmetal screws accidently making a hole in the gas tank besides hopefully you won't need to replace it frequently so fast access shouldn't be needed but to all their own I'm more into it looking good and flush
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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thats what i plan on doing. but until i can get to a junkyard to cut out a new piece of floor im going to use the old panel in the method i described.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 04:54 PM
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Steve83 also has a tech writeup here on the same issue, and he sells a panel to replace the sheet metal you cut out.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/33276

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 06:02 PM
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You're not restricted to robbing a patch panel from another Bronco. You can cut out a floor section from any F-series bed and use it.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 06:20 PM
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easy way to do this is just don't cut all 4 sides, cut three and put a piece or two of metal for bolt down. I just bend this up if I ever need it. 3 sides have some kinda sealer, forget what I used:






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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-19-2009, 10:22 AM
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Here's mine, the panel overlaps the hole and I used self tappping screws.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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nah im gonna get me a piece of metal to put over it. fiberglass might not work to well if i ever carry anything heavy and it happens to hit that. what part of chesapeake are you in?
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 04:30 PM
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I cut the access panel out and then cut a patch from another Bronco with 4 inches overlap on all four sides.
Overkill, I know but until I can do it the way I want to do it, this will work.
I used door insulation around the access hole and then used short sheetmetal screws to hold the entire mess in.
Eventually, I will remove the fuel tank and weld a "lip" under the access hole with a 1 inch ledge.
Then I will cut the access panel to rest on this lip flush with four screws holding it in.
From there, the astro turf carpet will go over it with a flap cut out for access.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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astro turf in your truck would be awesome. you gotta post up some pictures of that! it makes me wanna go find some astro turf for my truck
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 05:59 PM
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I have done straight rhino liner to other 4X4’s before and the heat transfer makes it a bit uncomfortable sometimes.
In South Florida, there is a lot of bare feet in the vehicles (to and from the beach) and ray bedliner material is rough.
The astro turf, I think, is the perfect thing to go over the roll on bedliner material.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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yea i just started putting bedliner in mine. but the look of grass in my truck would be pretty wicked. i think im gonna have to look into astro turf. are you gonna put the rubber pellets in there as well?
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 03:31 PM
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How far below the "bed" is the fuel tank? It is hard to tell in the last photo of Jfritts post. It looks like it is very close to the bed panel, but that may be because of the angle of the photo. I'm thinking about tackling this project this weekend.
Thanks.
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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its pretty close like maybe a couple inches. not something you wanna use a 9 inch sawzall blade on. but if you are good with a cutoff wheel then you shouldnt hit your tank
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfritts View Post
its pretty close like maybe a couple inches. not something you wanna use a 9 inch sawzall blade on. but if you are good with a cutoff wheel then you shouldnt hit your tank
As I recall that's about right, 2-3" Think I used a jigsaw, the thought of a cutoff wheel sending massive sparks kinda freaked me out. It was a very short blade. Drill a hole first and then test to make sure the blade stroke will not touch the tank.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 05:00 PM
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FWIW My BMW has one from the factory. It's a stamped panel and pretty strong. It only overlaps about 1/2" and has a foam gasket. Four screws hold it down. I wish everyone did that from the factory.

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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 09:06 PM
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After I cut the access hole, I just used a flat sheet of aluminum that I cut from an old folding table, pop riveted it on and sealed the gaps from the corrugations in the factory bed with waterproof sealer. If it ever needs to be removed again (hopefully not) the rivets can just get drilled out
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 09:56 PM
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why not mig the old peice back in?

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