How to properly set the timing on a 302 or 351 - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 02:16 PM
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My bad what was I thinking, got ahead of myself you don't want the engine to fire up either.."Ignition Key Off".....good call Brother ~
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post #22 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-21-2010, 12:41 AM
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I have a '91 5.8l EFI with TFI. My question is about playing with initial timing. The base timing spec is 10BTDC. If I advance it will the electronics make an adjustment internally for the over advanced setting I create? Or can I play with the advance until it starts to ping and then back off?

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post #23 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 02:18 PM
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help me please

OK check it out i put a new performance 302 i bulit in my 84 bronco the carb i got was used it was my gpa i rebulit it put it on then in the process of starting up my truck for the first time it stop letting fuel in before i figured that out i thought the timing was way off so me being the dumbass i am i pulled the distributor out moved it teeth over still didnt do anything of course so bought a new carb put it on played with timing now i got it to start but it wont idle cuz it will die an under a load it makes a poping noise comin from the carb an kinda boggs dwn some so where do i go from here i knw my timings off but i never didi timing before so any advice i would love (by the way my HB does not have the pointer to go off of so) please help me
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post #24 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thunderhorse84 View Post
OK check it out i put a new performance 302 i bulit in my 84 bronco the carb i got was used it was my gpa i rebulit it put it on then in the process of starting up my truck for the first time it stop letting fuel in before i figured that out i thought the timing was way off so me being the dumbass i am i pulled the distributor out moved it teeth over still didnt do anything of course so bought a new carb put it on played with timing now i got it to start but it wont idle cuz it will die an under a load it makes a poping noise comin from the carb an kinda boggs dwn some so where do i go from here i knw my timings off but i never didi timing before so any advice i would love (by the way my HB does not have the pointer to go off of so) please help me


Before you play with the timing, learn how to use punctuation marks.......and get a pointer for the balancer.
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post #25 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 01:01 PM
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Before you play with the timing, learn how to use punctuation marks.......and get a pointer for the balancer.
is there any way i can set the timing without a pointer an does sorry my punctuation is not good i spend more time working on my truck then on the computer you ****in nerd can anybody help me out with my timing issue not punctuation
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post #26 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 03:44 PM
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also once running you can time it with a vacuum gauge to 18-20hg, my light took a crap and learned of this method from my pops, nice thread, also dosent advance auto parts sell a stick-on timing marker thought i seen something on that a long time ago


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post #27 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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is there any way i can set the timing without a pointer an does sorry my punctuation is not good i spend more time working on my truck then on the computer you ****in nerd can anybody help me out with my timing issue not punctuation
Gauranteed, you get no help now. Figure it out yourself.
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post #28 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 02:48 PM
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I have a question. When i set the timing, i take out the plug, set the timing, start it up and turn on the timing light and it says its on mark. But then when i put the plug back in, the timing no longer lines up with my mark. it drops but several marks and runs rough and back fires, but if i unplug it again it goes back to the right timing. what could cause this?
I did not see a response to this question. Does anyone have an answer.
Thanks
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post #29 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 03:56 PM
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when the spout is pulled you are setting the engines base timing. with the spout back in the EEC is controlling the timing and it will advance as needed.
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post #30 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 09:04 AM
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Ok, thanks for the response. It's just like plugging the vacum line to set timing. Right? But what would cause it to run rough and backfire. I guess there are just too many vaiables to get a concrete answer. May have carb/FI problems. Vacum lines or bad gas???
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post #31 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 08:06 PM
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I have to give 100% credit to this thread! This is the only reason my truck is currently running and i apprciate your work.. Good job bro. Thanks
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post #32 of 69 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 02:29 PM
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Great write up, Sackman... easy to read and follow.

But still, I have a question. Here's why...

When I'm about to take on a task I haven't yet done, I first reference my Chilton's book and then I do some searching here on Full Size. I definitely find good info and it tends to come together.

Well, today I look in my book ready to verify / adjust my timing and under the timing instructions it explicitly says, "TFI-IV System - With the TFI-IV system no ignition timing adjustment is possible and none should be attempted".

So..... having seen your thread I reference back. In your pictures and instructions you showcase TFI-IV. What's the deal with this??? Why would the book indicate NO TIMING adjustment is possible, yet you indicate there is? I'm guessing having seen other threads where you've helped people successfully adjust the timing, that it can be done.

Do you mind explaining this?
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post #33 of 69 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 05:32 PM
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Great question, Seth.

If I may... The factory sets your "Bin", or Binary, files in your PCM. This set PCM programming expects your base timing to be at 10 degrees BTDC. Changing your base timing will cause your programmed ignition timing map to be off throughout your entire performance curve. Excessively altering your factory base timing risks potential pre-ignition, detonation, misfires or the common "pinging under load", especially with the 5.8L. This is why the factory states no ignition timing adjustment is possible and none should be attempted.

If you are compelled to play with your timing, first be informed and know the potential ramifications.



See this link, specifically post #2067: ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K)
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post #34 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 01:07 AM
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Thumbs up still got one question....

First; Thank you for this write-up. it rocks, and helped me figure out i put the distributor in on the intake stroke and not the compression stroke.... doh!

[edit] found the spout connector/plug. exactly where the picture references it.
2nd. I could not find my spout connector when I was setting the timing. so I didn't unplug anything and set it to 10-11 BTC. it runs like a champ! I plan on trying to find this spout connector to see if its over there by the EEC connector
(my engine harness connector is forward on the wheel liner, not near the firewall as shown in picture two of your spout connector ID photos)

[edit] no it is not the same, just in case any one else searches this and has the same question I had.
Is the spout connector the same as the connector at the base of the distributor that goes into the engine harness?

Thanks again. this thread made timing easy breeezy.

went from a 95 Bronco, to a 95 F150, both 5.0, e40d.

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Last edited by matt4068; 01-15-2012 at 12:05 AM. Reason: found it.
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post #35 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 11:58 PM
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NO CHANGE IN TIMING WHEN I REPLACE SPOUT
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post #36 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-26-2014, 12:28 AM
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This is a great right up. I didn't have a major timing issue but I had a little bit of a rough idle at low RPMs.

got me tuned right up and set perfect.

thanks for the info contributors.

-SEMPER FI
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post #37 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 11:04 AM
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Time to drop the distributor in. Start the drop so the rotor is to the left of the black mark, ignition module at 45* angle. Now when the distributor gear marries the cam gear, the rotor will spin clockwise. You want to drop it in so the left tip of the rotor is about to make contact with the black mark like seen in the picture below when the distributor is fully seated. This will be real close to 10*BTC. And you'll be able to dial it in once running with a light. You also want to drop it in so that the ignition module (if equipped, if not, flat spot on distributor) is pointing at a 45 degree angle. Basically, aim it so it's pointing towards the driver's side head light. This will allow you maximum room to turn distributor both directions when setting final timing with a light. Then tighten the hold down bolt snug so the distributor turns but not to easily.

I don't understand step 7 and do I have to pull my distributor?
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post #38 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherneck View Post

I don't understand step 7 and do I have to pull my distributor?
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Originally Posted by sackman9975 View Post

These first directions are for new motor installs, or if you've pulled the distributor and didn't mark the distributor before removing it.
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Step seven.
Time to drop the distributor in. Start the drop so the rotor is to the left of the black mark, ignition module at 45* angle. Now when the distributor gear marries the cam gear, the rotor will spin clockwise. You want to drop it in so the left tip of the rotor is about to make contact with the black mark like seen in the picture below when the distributor is fully seated. This will be real close to 10*BTC. And you'll be able to dial it in once running with a light. You also want to drop it in so that the ignition module (if equipped, if not, flat spot on distributor) is pointing at a 45 degree angle. Basically, aim it so it's pointing towards the driver's side head light. This will allow you maximum room to turn distributor both directions when setting final timing with a light. Then tighten the hold down bolt snug so the distributor turns but not to easily.
As you see, these instructions were typed for the guy/gal that either has a new motor install or pulled the distributor.

My questions to you is:

Does the engine currently run?

Yes - Proceed with step nine.

No - Does it have spark and fuel?
Yes - Start first by pulling codes and making sure fuel pressure is good by using a gage to test it.

I sent this link to you to show you the basics of timing the motor. Pictures of the spout locations and such. Everything is pretty much relevant to your needs for timing the motor.
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post #39 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 04:00 PM
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Yes - Start first by pulling codes and making sure fuel pressure is good by using a gage to test it

Were do you check fuel pressure at and what type of gauge?

Thanks

Last edited by leatherneck; 02-12-2015 at 04:01 PM. Reason: words together
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post #40 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 04:14 PM
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fuel pressure is taken at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. facing the engine you'll see in to the right of intake.

standard fuel pressure gauges can be had cheap at any of your local parts stores.
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