sackman9975 Thanks for writing this up. I used this as a guide last night while "trying" to time my 96 5.8l. Yes i said trying, this brought back memories of doing the same to my old one I sold about 5 years ago. Well this worked great for getting everything setup but still something's amiss with my current truck. Got it timed got it running a hell of a lot better than it was when I got it last week. Problem is the only way I was able to get it to run at all was to turn the rotor 180 from what it should be everything else is perfect.
96 5.8l 240,xxx miles just put new iac, coil, wires, cap, rotor button, clean air filter, maf cleaned, stripped throttle body and clean that too. I know some of this has nothing to do with the 180 out issue but just trying to get everything right on the truck. Timed dead on to 10 btc and I'm stumped. I have no idea if this thing has cams or anything else on it as of yet. Anyone got ideas on why it'd be 180 out on the rotor?
I do have a new balance, tps, crank sensor and pcv valve arriving later today but again those shouldn't have any impact on the rotor being out 180. Truck still surges hear and there and still hunts for a good idle speed with or without the spout removed. Does smoke a little white out the exhaust which I'll deal with this weekend. I know lots of info but better more than not enough. Oh I should add the only thing that comes to mind as to why it'd be 180 out is some dumb ass managed to set the cams with the crank 180 out at some point, yes I've seen this done on 5.0 that I've rebuilt. Still cant figure out how they manage it but they do. I say this as mechanically that's the only thing that makes sense to me unless I've been out of the game so long I'm missing something entirely. Figure I should also add i have plenty of experience with rebuilding engines especially 5.0 and 5.8 blocks but been a while since I have. In addition I did time based of the proper hash marks and numbers on the damper not the notch cut in it i remember enough to know that.