D44 TTB Tie Rod End (TRE) flip - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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D44 TTB Tie Rod End (TRE) flip

I flipped the TRE's to the top of the knuckles today, took a few pics to document the work

I got tired of bending, breaking and knocking the steering to hell, here's a pic of the carnage..



What you will need is a 7 Degree reamer, they are not cheap, but I bartered one for some primo beer (which I tried last night SWAT, not bad not bad!)

You will also need a 1/2 drill, some grease, and to do it right you will also need the conversion sleeves, i used these:


from http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...n-sleeves.html

they worked perfectly.

Here's the reamer and the sleeves.



Anyway i started by pulling the bronco into my 90 year old garage its small.. but its a place to work!





And we are about to begin.



Passenger side before the operation



Drivers side before operation



Drivers side TRE removed



Passenger Side TRE removal



Slight tap with a rubber mallet or steel hammer will knock the TRE off



And its off



Now i have to remove the bent sleeve.. really screwed up the steering on chinaman last weekend.. you can see how i forced the sleeves so that i could drive back to Denver.. basically i re-threaded the sleeves by screwing on the TRE's...



You can see pretty much everything on the sleeve is bent.



Before i began I tested the reamer out on the stock setting on the knuckle



Then i checked it on top of the knuckle, quite a difference..



I also test fitted the sleeve on the reamer to make sure it fit at the proper degree, only had one shot at this and wanted to be sure!



This is as far as the sleeve would go in on the stock location.



Here is the sleeve as it will sit on the TRE.



Used a good amount of grease as suggested by SWAT. This is before i started reaming.



I went slow and steady checking frequently so that i didn't over ream the knuckle.



Perfect fit! The sleeve is installed on the passenger side. Its pretty flush I didn't get the hole perfect but it was close!




Passenger TRE installed



You can see in this picture how i was a bit off on the drivers side.. i didn't realize it until i was over halfway, i figured it was ok and it turned out fine i didn't want to screw up the hole any more then i had to.



Sleeve installed on the drivers side. Again i was a bit off on this side.. however it fit very well in the end.




Everything is installed, looking good!



Tires are on.. pretty flat. everything is tight





Anyway, this was my first write up so I hope there was enough info most of you, its very simple and straight forward, i know this has been done before but I know i like seeing as many examples as i can when i do something to the bronco.

This was pretty painless overall, again a big thanks to SWAT for the reamer worked well and his suggestion on using grease seemed to work quite well. Had I not taken pics and done a few other things along the way I think that this would have only taken an hour or so. I followed advice and went slow and checked the fit of the sleeves often.

Now i will need to keep checking the toe.. its not very easy with a TTB to get this thing aligned.. it changes hourly!
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 08:57 AM
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Uh, if your going to make the mistake of tapping on the top of the tierod, at least put the nut back on so you dont damage the thread.
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwagon View Post
Uh, if your going to make the mistake of tapping on the top of the tierod, at least put the nut back on so you dont damage the thread.
I didn't think the rubber mallet would damage my TRE, i think i would have bigger problems if so!

However point taken. Thanks for the advice!
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 03:48 PM
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People will ask- "why use the sleeves?" Reason being- if you decide to simply use the reamer to cut a new taper on the top side enough to get the tie rod end on, your hole will be an hourglass shape and could possibly wallow out over time. The sleeves allow you to cut a full taper all the way through and bring it back down to size to fit the OEM tie rod end.
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 10:45 PM
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Whats the of benifits of doing a modification like this? even if you have a 4 inch lift is it still a good mod? sorry for the stupid question but im a new bronco owner and know little about them besides that fact they are great!
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 11:05 PM
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Your tie rods will be less prone to bending as they are closer to parallel with each other than if you left them in the stock position.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 11:09 PM
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where do u get the sleeves from?
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-23-2010, 11:40 AM
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does this eleminate the need for a drop pitman arm with lift kit then since you are essentially raising the rods 3 inches?



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No, I don't have this problem. Money grows on trees here in Michigan, and my Bronco gets 45 mpg. It emits sunshine and a light berry scent, and it never needs service or parts.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-23-2010, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imlikeojnow View Post
does this eleminate the need for a drop pitman arm with lift kit then since you are essentially raising the rods 3 inches?

4" lift, yes
6" probably still a good idea to use the drop arm

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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRADO View Post
Whats the of benifits of doing a modification like this? even if you have a 4 inch lift is it still a good mod? sorry for the stupid question but im a new bronco owner and know little about them besides that fact they are great!
As was stated, it moves them up so they clear obstacles a bit better, Iam also hoping it makes them a bit stronger on the trail, and they won't bend so easily... in addition it seems to have improved my steering a bit, but might be due to to the new TRE's or a better alignment...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PRADO View Post
where do u get the sleeves from?
You can get the sleeves from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...n-sleeves.html

and thanks for the write up shado, even as simple as it was I try to look at as many walk throughs as possible

Last edited by landshark99; 05-24-2010 at 01:10 AM.
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 11:24 AM
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I believe the tie rod and drag link won't bend as easy with less angle on them by placing them over the knuckles. They also end-up at least 3" above stock which helps get them up and out of the way. I initially ran a drop pitman arm with 4" TTB lift but with this knuckle-under set-up went back to a stock, flat, pitman arm. Then I went to 6" coils and needed the drop pitman arm. I also think if you have less than 4"s of lift that this mod won't work.

I currently run a stock, flat pitman arm with DOM, Chevy TRE's, Mid-Steer, SAS, and hydro assist. I placed the tie rod under the steering arms on my 609. I tried them on top and the tie rod would hit the frame at full compression, so I reamed the steering arms from the bottom for both the drag link and tie rod. With steering arms you can eliminate the TRE with the hole in it and drag link end that fits that hole. I only run two types of TRE's now. The Chevy TRE's are bigger so they won't fit a stock hole without reaming. They are stronger but have the same degree taper.

I eliminated these:


This is what I got:

01, Ranger Edge 4X4, 4.10's, 265/70R16, lowered, lightened, and with a Supercharged 4.0
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 11:27 AM
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Landshark, Chris, I an curious if the tapered sleeves are the same size as the larger Chevy TRE? If so one could knock out the tapered sleeve and upgrade to DOM and Chevy TRE's.

01, Ranger Edge 4X4, 4.10's, 265/70R16, lowered, lightened, and with a Supercharged 4.0
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 12:05 PM
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dom and chevy tre's on a TTB would be great.

94 5.8/E4OD Edelbrock efi intake, jba headers, transgo shift kit. 6" PC stage II, 4.88 gears, front Aussie. Warn HS9500, custom bumper and sliders. RedHead steering and TieRod flip.
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swat View Post
Landshark, Chris, I an curious if the tapered sleeves are the same size as the larger Chevy TRE? If so one could knock out the tapered sleeve and upgrade to DOM and Chevy TRE's.
I'm not sure, however I think instead of putting more money into the TTB I have decided to go for a SAS.. i have located a D44 housing with radius arms for $50 and might pick it up and start building/refreshing it.

I do like the TTB ride, since it does see quite a bit of on road driving, however it has been a continuous nightmare aligning the front end.. it changes on a whim, and it's been pretty much a pain in the ass. I will run it for the summer and maybe toward the end of summer will have the axle built up ready to be swapped.

In addition I have been flip flopping on swapping the rear axle out as well, I have a spare 8.8 sitting in the garage I'm going to truss and build up at the same time as the front, but like i said iam going to run the summer as is.

On another note JBG and the steering arm manufacturer warrantied my steering, and they have sent replacements. So i guess I now have 2 new sets and the old set i took off.. good enough for backups :)
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 01:50 PM
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Awesome, How to... I think I may try this on my 95 I get a terrible bump steer and wander from the 6" lift this should bring the rods closer to parallel and reduce the bump steer, I think the steering box is the issue with wander, very sloppy input shaft with no output to the pitman arm. Tried adjusting it but no change. This is good stuff thanks.
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 07:40 PM
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Been thinking about doing this since I've already bent two drag links. Do you think if this was done and the rods just turned 180degrees to be pointed down, that it would be OK without resetting the toe? Or would bringing the linkage up higher throw it out? I've done alignments on cars/trucks on an actual alignment rack, but always just paid to have this thing done so I don't have to deal with it... I've heard about just tape measure and the 1/8" toed in method but have never attempted it
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 07:58 PM
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Yes, the tie rod flip will change the toe setting.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 01:04 PM
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Going by the dark blue coloring, I would say that the spacers are from Spidertrax.
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickyhatch View Post
off topic what company did u use for the wheel spacers ovb all 4 corners right?
I believe they are Spider Trax 1" wheel spacers. I only have them on the front as I had a slight rub on my radius arms and wanted my turning radius to be as tight as possible. They have worked great, no problems and I have wheeled them quite a bit.

I will be selling them very soon if your interested, in the process of doing my SAS.. probably a month or less until I can pull them off.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 05:41 PM
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Won't you need the spacers for your SAS?

Thanks for the pics on the TTB tie rod flip.
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