Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 02:16 AM
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It's a one-way vacuum line that comes from the vacuum tree and branches off twice to the HVAC. I did not replace the second line as it goes through the firewall.

I believe that the line at the top of the first photo you are refering to goes to the blend door. The second photo shows the harness where the lower line enters through the firewall.








On anther note, how do you bend your thumb back that far? Now that is cool...
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post #22 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 11:57 PM
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Some dumb questions here, I haven't done much with the Bronco recently. I "lost" my coffee can from the passenger side years ago (didn't fit with the coilovers), so I have no vacuum reservoir. The plastic hoses near the passenger side header were broken anyway, so I connected the two lines together with a check valve similar to the coffee can. Everything works seemingly well for a 24 year old truck, except for the cruise control, but I think that failure is in the clock spring (not a big deal, the truck isn't daily driven). I have an autometer vacuum gauge on the dashboard, it runs about 18-19 in/hg at idle, at full throttle about 2-3 in/hg. The vac measurements are solid, not surging at all. I do have a little bit of surging in the idle, but it might be a 50 RPM change around 800-850 RPM.

Do I need a reservoir in the system, and are there any components from this system that can be eliminated without negatively effecting drivability?
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post #23 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 12:19 AM
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Here is a quote from miesk5:


Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
yo, Yes... Get a vac canister back in there.
The vacuum reservoir is just what its name implies, a storage device for vacuum. The engine creates vacuum. The vacuum is an energy that is used as a power source to operate different emission controls and accessories like the controls for the ventilation system. There are times that an engine does not create a good supply of vacuum. Because of this the vehicle manufacturers install reservoirs to store vacuum. The hose from the engine or the reservoir itself will have a check valve that blocks the loss of vacuum back to the engine. Why is this? When accelerating, the amount of vacuum created by the engine drops to a level that will no longer power any emission controls or provide for control of the ventilation system. The reservoir is designed to hold enough vacuum in storage to maintain control under most driving conditions. If the check valve fails the vacuum reservoir will lose vacuum so quickly that there will be none left in reserve. The result? A loss of control of vacuum operated devices.

You can make your own as SigEp did but for the Emission stuff
Fabrication in a 95
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at darn coffe can!!

GL!
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post #24 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 04:08 AM
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With all due respect, I would love to know that SRS clockspring part number for your 1987 and how it ties into your airbags, as well...
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post #25 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 11:43 AM
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Maybe an hour or two, depending upon how detailed you are. Not a pain, sort of fun actually.

Be sure to have the proper sized tees before you start. When you pull the old harness, be sure that you remember where all of the lines go. Climb up on the driver's side engine with a flashlight to visually see where the TAD line goes. Feel for the PCV tube on the passenger side rear upper intake.

Run all of your lines one-by-one to ensure that they go to the correct location, or better yet mark them with tape. I recommend that you use inexpensive wire loom to protect the lines through the upper intake manifold or other heat areas. Cut all of your wire loom pieces together so they are the exact same length for a finished appearance.

While you are at it, access the Vacuum Reservior mounting bolts from under the wheel well and remove it to inspect for holes or leaks. Using a vacuum tester is advised for the reservoir and all of the new lines.
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post #26 of 100 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB View Post
Maybe an hour or two, depending upon how detailed you are. Not a pain, sort of fun actually.

Be sure to have the proper sized tees before you start. When you pull the old harness, be sure that you remember where all of the lines go. Climb up on the driver's side engine with a flashlight to visually see where the TAD line goes. Feel for the PCV tube on the passenger side rear upper intake.

Run all of your lines one-by-one to ensure that they go to the correct location, or better yet mark them with tape. I recommend that you use inexpensive wire loom to protect the lines through the upper intake manifold or other heat areas. Cut all of your wire loom pieces together so they are the exact same length for a finished appearance.

While you are at it, access the Vacuum Reservior mounting bolts from under the wheel well and remove it to inspect for holes or leaks. Using a vacuum tester is advised for the reservoir and all of the new lines.
sounds about right, maybe a little longer. I did mine while I was replacing my injectors and such, so its hard to say how long it took.

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post #27 of 100 (permalink) Old 09-24-2011, 12:39 AM
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Replacing vacuum lines

This thread was very informative. I took a slight twist to the concept and replaced the vacuum lines with brake line that can be bent to fit using simple hand tools. I cut off the factory ends which were set up for compression fittings and used the same rubber hose on each end to connect to each sensor/valve. Crazy glue does a great job sealing the hose to the brake line. The other end just slips over the sensor/valve. I even painted the lines to match factory colors so I don't get mixed up. You couldn't tell the difference unless you reach in and touch them. These lines should hold up very well to heat. I found it best to remove the upper intake to dry fit the lines.

Last edited by clements408; 09-24-2011 at 01:01 AM. Reason: I cannot load the pic. View my public profile.
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post #28 of 100 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 01:22 PM
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Thank you guys for an excellent thread. I'm about to order away, and just wanted to clarify a couple of things so I can get quantities accurate:

1. Do the quantities of 4mm / 5/32" hose you guys are talking about include replacing all of the plastic HVAC vacuum hose going through the firewall as well as throughout the dashboard? Or are you guys only replacing engine and emissions related plastic hose? I ask because my interior plastic hose looks like they're in great shape and my vent dampers are working fine, so as long as the one-way check valve isolates any possible leaks on the HVAC side I'd rather not replace the HVAC hoses right now.

2. Is it definitely unnecessary to 'clamp' the ends of vacuum hoses onto barbed male fittings? Not sure what to use, but it seems like it would be simple insurance to keep hoses in place and sealed.

Thanks

S
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post #29 of 100 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 02:22 PM
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Wow excellent write up Brother don't know how missed this, so I shouldn't have any problem doing this to my 86 EFI.........?

I notice the OEM plastic and rubber vaccum lines on mine some appear to be different sizes or is that an illusion, difference in materials etc.....?

I think I'd go with the RED lines, it sure does look nice, are the silicone lines hard or soft.........and I'm getting that with all new vaccum lines performance is better.......?

Do the Tee's come with the lines or do you have to buy them else where.........? Cost...?

I think it's time for this upgarde on my BKO and it looks easy and fun........

I've been using tie-wraps as "bridging clamps" for repairs on my lines .....simple, works great, makes a good seal and they're not expensive!

Thanks ~
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post #30 of 100 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydude View Post
Thank you guys for an excellent thread. I'm about to order away, and just wanted to clarify a couple of things so I can get quantities accurate:

1. Do the quantities of 4mm / 5/32" hose you guys are talking about include replacing all of the plastic HVAC vacuum hose going through the firewall as well as throughout the dashboard? Or are you guys only replacing engine and emissions related plastic hose? I ask because my interior plastic hose looks like they're in great shape and my vent dampers are working fine, so as long as the one-way check valve isolates any possible leaks on the HVAC side I'd rather not replace the HVAC hoses right now.
See the parts list posted by Booba for rubber lines and myself for silicone lines. Not including dash HVAC.




Quote:
Originally Posted by sydude View Post
2. Is it definitely unnecessary to 'clamp' the ends of vacuum hoses onto barbed male fittings? Not sure what to use, but it seems like it would be simple insurance to keep hoses in place and sealed.
No clamps required as they are flexible and fit tight on the sensors and tees. Tees are cheap and usually come in a package of several. Look at the pics again.
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post #31 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012, 08:46 PM
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does anyone know off the tree of the intake manifold. there are 4 intakes. one of mine is capped off. where does all of them go to? i know 2 go to solenoids and other to brake manifold. i think po capped off or it isnt needed. thanks[IMG][/IMG]
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post #32 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-15-2012, 04:19 AM
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VRESER, HVAC, FPR, Brake Booster, (+ my 1990 has one to the Vacuum Cruise Control & Cruise Reservoir, yours does not)

You will not see the Brake Booster vacuum Line on my Bronco as I have Electric Boost Brakes. The remaining ports are capped. Remember, some lines are main intake manifold vacuum lines and some are secondary vacuum from actuators.





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post #33 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 03:53 PM
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Where does the line from the factory breather box go???

I didn't see it on the charts.
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post #34 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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What breather box are you talking about?

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post #35 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 08:48 AM
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The stock box for the air filter.
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post #36 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 09:08 AM
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that goes to the vent on the oil cap.
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post #37 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 09:57 AM
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Not that one jermil01. Mine has a larger diameter plastic hose on the side for that.(Soon to be replaced) The top of my breather box has two vacum fittings. One has, what I think is a check valve?

I keep thinking about making a ghetto fab K&N filter. But I'd rather spend $$$ on hubs and ditch the auto's right now.
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post #38 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 10:14 AM
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snap a pic so we can see what you're talking about.
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post #39 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, I'm not sure what you are talkin about either, a pic would help.

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post #40 of 100 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 05:57 PM
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While replacing my factory lines with new silicone lines I found the "black" vacuum line from the charcoal canister in the rear of the intake manifold not attached to anything. From reading through this I'm assuming this is where the black hose should go to.

Now go back to the vacuum canister, and run a vacuum hose from the OTHER plug on the
canister(formerly black line) to the bottom port on the 2 solenoids for TAB\TAD. You will
need another "T" so that you can split the hose into 2 hoses, one for each solenoid.
Kind of hard to see in this pic, you can see the white tip of the T, but it'll make sense
when your doing it:


Is this correct?

And thanks to Booba and everyone else who has contributed to this thread. I have had some idle issues that I haven't been able to figure out. Hopefully replacing all the vacuum lines will cure those issues!
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