Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 86 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 01:05 PM
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I was wondering to see how the silicone hoses are holding up also since this thread is a couple years old.

Anyone else besides booba have anything to report on the longevity of the silicone vacuum hoses?
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post #62 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 12:09 AM
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Booba5185, Thanks for the great write up! When I first looked under the hood I was bewildered by what I saw.

SeattleFSB, Thanks for your contributions as well.

Steve83, you didn't contribute to this particular thread, but your Supermotors resources were very helpful as well. I always appreciate the time you have put into that.

Although I liked how you guys ran your vacuum lines through the upper plenum, I decided to mimic the factory routing. My reasoning is I think it would be easier to make an emergency repair if need be. Also, I could pull just about any line and it would be long enough to use for any connection by running it up and over the plenum.

For anybody looking to do this, it was super simple. It took me about 1.5 hours, but I was working slowly and in the dark. I also was very impressed with the Siliconeintakes.com hose. I wouldn't chance buying it elsewhere as I can see how thinner walled hose would kink. All said and done, it was worth the time and cost not having to worry about 20+ year old plastic lines.
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post #63 of 86 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 02:12 AM
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Awesome Info.... New problem

Great thread! I just put 5/32 hose on my. Got 20' from NAPA as well as the T's. All went smooth with all the diagram and such. Solved my vacuum leak... But I found a new beast to be reckoned with. On the back where the TAB sensor is there's two hoses about 1 1/2 inches or larger, hard to recall. But they're cut and ones filled with silicone and the other is wide open. Where do they go? Can anyone help? I know its for emissions but that's all! All help is appreciated!
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post #64 of 86 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 03:49 PM
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Ok, I've been reading over this for a few days. I've already gotten the 5/32" hose and the T-connectors. It still looks daunting to me. I guess my first, most direct question: when replacing the red line (original plastic) on the vacuum tree, does it matter which port the line goes to? All the lines on the tree are red, three of them, and one port is capped. When I start replacing the red lines, do I need to insure that the tube goes on the same exact port as the original red line was on, or does that not matter? I'm guessing they all flow the same? Thanks SO much for this thread!
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post #65 of 86 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bocajoe View Post
I was wondering to see how the silicone hoses are holding up also since this thread is a couple years old.

Anyone else besides booba have anything to report on the longevity of the silicone vacuum hoses?
yo Joe,
My 96, bought new still have original vacuum hoses;
"...The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment control circuit are constructed from PVC plastic material. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes..."
Source: by Ford

1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
Mini-Tube Vacuum Hose Service
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...0/STJC0042.HTM

easure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

2.
Cut a piece of standard 3mm (1/8-inch) ID vacuum hose approximately 25mm (1 inch) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

3.
Cut the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area and remove damaged portion of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

4.
Dip the mini-tube hose ends in Tetra Hydro Furan (THF) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Either of these solvents will act as a sealer for the repair of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

5.
Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9mm (3/8 inch) into the ends of the standard 3 mm (1/8-inch) ID replacement vacuum hose.

6.
Shake the service joint after assembly to make sure solvent is dispersed and vacuum line is not blocked internally.

7.
Test system for a vacuum leak in area serviced.

=====

Vacuum Line (Hose), Mini-Tube Damage Repair in a 92
Source: by JohnMcD348 at
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/175808-how-i-fixed-my-c-vac-leak.html

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
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post #66 of 86 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014, 02:28 AM
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Thank you so much for this post, broke so many vacuum lines today and lord knows I don't got the knowledge you guys have, awesome write up! !

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

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1987 Eddie Bauer 302 AOD
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post #67 of 86 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 09:52 PM
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I had an intermittent CEL with codes 332 and 334 and suspected vacuum leaks were the culprit. Followed the instructions on this post and no CEL since. Thanks a million to the author!
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post #68 of 86 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 06:35 PM
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Since I took Seattle FSB's suggestion and bought the www.siliconeintakes.com boost/vaccum kit I haven't had a vaccum problem and it looks great, I chose Red.

I didn't have any problems fit wise using the 4mm it seemed fine to me the only thing I didn't like was the 10mm for the TSB brake booster reroute it seemed to thin or soft so I didn't use it...www.supermotors.net/17406 if you need to check it out..

Good Luck ~
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post #69 of 86 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 04:53 PM
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Just replaced all my vacuum lines yesterday. Didn't really take that long. I spent more more time trying to get the dried out, brittle, crusty wire loom off. The color coded plastic lines were perfect for routing the new hose. I didn't do anything special or fancy with the hose, simply used black 5/32 hose. I also routed the vacuum line right over the intake manifold to conserve length. I think it even starts easier. Nonetheless, glad I did it. And thank you for the thread as it helped.
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post #70 of 86 (permalink) Old 03-20-2015, 09:05 PM
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Hey guys, working on this right now. Well actually I'm finished. I only used one T.

I used my Haines book and the vacuum map under the hood, and noticed the 96 5.8 has way way way less vacuum ran around than all the other engines. I didn't follow this writeup at all and just followed my vac map.

Is there anything I'm missing?

I assume doing it by the map can't possibly cause issues right?
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post #71 of 86 (permalink) Old 03-20-2015, 11:34 PM
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Just finished up and she's idling like ass and died several times. Any idea what it could be?

I'll double check in the morning but I can't imagine I missed anything.

I hear a hissing sound, but I'm thinking it may be the upper intake gasket that I replaced today while cleaning the intake.
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post #72 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 03:52 PM
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Is the vacuum line 5/32'' on the inside of the hose or the outside measurement?
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post #73 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 08:00 PM
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5/32" Internal diameter

JTMcD.
We sleep Peaceful in our beds because Rough Men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm............George Orwell
The object of life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, 'Holy Shit, What a Ride!!! -- Mavis Leyrer

MY A/C Vacuum leak repair http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175808
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post #74 of 86 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 07:35 AM
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Where does the vacuum line for the blend door go? A/C Heat. 89 5.8 Thanks
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post #75 of 86 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 03:54 AM
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I rebuild my vacuum lines using 4mm(5/32) silicon vacuum line I purchased from NAPA. This was probably one of the best fixes I have done to the bronco. Very easy to do and totally worth it. Check my Super Motors for Pictures.
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post #76 of 86 (permalink) Old 11-12-2015, 08:20 PM
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Hey guys sorry to bump up an old thread but I just did this upgrade and have run into a problem. As I was replacing the lines one by one the "hose tree" just came apart. Well with the help of this thread I got most of them back togetner. However, I think I missed one somewhere around the back of the intake near the pcv valve...I am still getting a 332 cell code. Could someone with a 5.8l engine take a pic for me or describe how the lines are run back there?
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post #77 of 86 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 09:04 PM
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Ok, I have read this thread at least twice and am ready to tackle this, ordered my lines from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication and should be delivered this week.
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post #78 of 86 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATCHBOX View Post
Can't see the pics....
There, I think I fixed it. Hopefully you can see it now

By the way, it says part number pa66-m40 on it, but I couldn't get anywhere with that

1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer
351w Maroon
6" superlift 16" M/T Classic IIIs
315/75/16 Fierce Attitude MT's
Build Thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...26#post5008626
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post #79 of 86 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 11:42 PM
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I figured out the part. The answer is over on this thread What vacuum part is this

1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer
351w Maroon
6" superlift 16" M/T Classic IIIs
315/75/16 Fierce Attitude MT's
Build Thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...26#post5008626
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post #80 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 05:04 PM
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great tutorial, slight difference, HELP

Ok, so everything on the replacing the plastic vacuums with rubber hoses except from one difference. if your following along at:

Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber

so the first picture shows the pulled engine and shows the Diverter valve connecting to the check valve, and then has a hose run all the way down to the bypass valve/ smog pump.

On my 93 bronco that valve is different, in that the Diverter Valve and the Bypass valve are connected very closely (a combined unit if you will), with the diverter valve above the bypass, and then has the check valves for cats port. so in the pictures it showed his Diverter and Bypass valve were not one connected unit? Im assuming you would just route the TAB (or purple hose in pic 2) line to that bypass valve below the Diverter valve? so just a shorter TAB hose similar to the length of TAD hose?

The big thing that has me wondering is that when looked at this on my own car, the previous owner had the Check valve Hooked up to what im assuming is the bypass valve(bottom one) and had the TAB vac line hose hooked to the top of the diverter valve. Just when i think its a simple error, i pull the unit off to see the other big hose was cut and no vacuum line to it (what should have the TAB). And to go a step further the check valve for cats is clogged with an old spark plug and clamped shut. Per the pics/ instructions in the tutorial, i moved the good hose to the top (diverter valve) and connected to the check valve. Then i ran a new vac hose from the top port in TAD solenoid and stuck it in the top of diverter. I went ahead and ran the vac line from the TAB solenoid to the Bypass valve, but that large hose coming from the bypass valve, which i assume goes to the smog pump, is still cut and there is no smog pump to be found under my hood.

Id like to note that i have a straight piped exhaust so maybe that is why the hose to smog pump is cut?

My real question is how important is this large hose going to the smog pump? as well as the check valve for cats hose?

If either are very important to the vacuum of the motor, then how do i install on an aftermarket straight pipe exhaust?

ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED

THANK YOU ALL FOR TAKING THE TIME.
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