Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #81 of 89 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 05:42 PM
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is it like mine?




The Bottom valve goes to the crossover pipe check valve. The other pipe coming off of it goes to the converter.




The bottom line on each of these valves is the supply from the black coffee can reservoir. The top port on the valve routes to the appropriate vacuum device. The TAB is the top valve and the TAD is the bottom valve on the rear of the motor. The EVR is the EGR valve position sensor.



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post #82 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB View Post

Protected with Wire Loom...

If I may revive this old thread..doing the vacuum hose replacement next weekend. Would you pls share what kind of wire loom you used (heat retardant prob?), where you got it? I only seem to find too large in diameter (1/4" minimum)

thanks!
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post #83 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 04:32 PM
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Seattle FSB,

Where did you order your blue silicone tubing from?
I have will have to replace my vacuum lines as well.

How effective has you modifications has been so far?
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post #84 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BroncoJohn87 View Post
Seattle FSB,
Where did you order your blue silicone tubing from?
I have will have to replace my vacuum lines as well.
How effective has you modifications has been so far?
Yo John,
Seattle wrote in Booba's Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber @ Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber

"Get the Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Engine Dress Up Kit and then an additional 10' of 4mm vacuum hose in the color of your choice. I used wire loom to protect the hose through the Intake Manifold, to the Diverter Valve and where it rubs on the Intake to the EVP. "
Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose
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post #85 of 89 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 10:53 AM
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Just read thru the whole thread and have tried googling/searching, and can't find an answer.

If we're replacing the vacuum lines because they've been leaking, should we clean any accessible ports that the lines go to?

Would it make any sense to remove the intake plenum or manifold and clean it out, as well as squirter electronics or maf cleaner into the sensors?

If we just change the lines, and not clean anything else, do we need to worry about past gunk still having detrimental effects on our system?
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post #86 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 11:38 PM
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I got my new-to-me project Bronco sort of running yesterday with a new starter, but it wouldn't idle unless I gave it gas. (One might say it's a Bucking Bronco.) Replacing vacuum hoses was at the top of my list of things to troubleshoot, followed by IAC, TPS, TB, fuel pump/filter, and plugs/wires/coil (will do the Six Litre upgrade).

Looking around the engine bay today, I noticed the black line is cut a couple inches from the coffee can on the passenger wheel well. I couldn't find a matching hose elsewhere, but jowens1126's post at the top of page 5 highlights what I need to look for.

Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber

I'll see if I can spot the line with daylight tomorrow. That would have been tough to spot without that illustration, so thanks in advance! This is my first time working on a vehicle so big. It'll take some getting used to have to use a step stool to get all the way into the engine bay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by treehick View Post
If we're replacing the vacuum lines because they've been leaking, should we clean any accessible ports that the lines go to?
Unless the hoses having gaping holes, that doesn't seem necessary. More dirt probably gets in through the air filter than it would through brittle hoses. I've never worried it before and never had a problem.
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post #87 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 11:27 PM
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I've been meaning to ask this the past couple weeks. Does anyone else's EGR/EVR solenoid setup differ from the OP's instructions? Booba shows the green and red lines running to the solenoid, but mine originally had green and black going to it:



I hooked it up as instructed with the red. Everything else seemed to be the same, so I found that discrepancy to be a bit odd.

I did end up finding the severed end of the black line at the vacuum reservoir, tucked away in the wire loom with the green (also split open) and red lines.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Booba5185 View Post
Go back to the driver side of the intake, where the solenoids are, and cut the vacuum line
you just ran so you can put a "T" on it and run a very short vacuum line to the bottom of
the EVR\EGR solenoid:



From the T you connect a short vacuum hose to the bottom of the EVR solenoid, Pic:

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post #88 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 11:43 PM
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Wait, scratch that. I went back and looked at the original plastic lines and see where the confusion arose. The 3-wire junction block transitions from red to black for that one line in question, so the instructions are correct about it being the red line.

Edit: Here's what I was referring to, just so you don't think I'm crazy:

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post #89 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:12 PM
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is it necessary to have the EVP line running to the vacuum canister or can it be plugged directly into the tree? My tab/tad have been eliminated.

94 5.8/E4OD Edelbrock efi intake, jba headers, transgo shift kit. 6" PC stage II, 4.88 gears, front Aussie. Warn HS9500, custom bumper and sliders. RedHead steering and TieRod flip.
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