Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 100 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber

This should cover most 87-96 V8s (302\351); for the I6s (300)s the solenoids are in the same general
area, as well as the valves. You can use this article as a basis to replace yours, just keep in mind it
will be slightly different.

Parts you'll need:
All available from a local autoparts store (except one)
Approximately 20' of vacuum hose (5\32")
2 Vacuum T's
Patience

To get started, I'll explain what the point of it all is. The EEC (Electronic Engine Control or computer)
uses electronic solenoids to send vacuum to valves (in this case, three valves: the EGR, the TAB
(next to the SMOG pump), and the TAD (behind the upper intake plenum). The EEC sends a
signal to the solenoid and it "opens" the valve to allow the engine vacuum through.
The easiest way to understand this is with the EGR.

At idle, the EGR is normally closed; but when you get to highway speeds, the EEC wants the EGR
to open. The EEC sends the signal to "open" the valve to let the vacuum through and the
vacuum opens the EGR. For a more in depth description of the TAB\TAD systems,
see this post (Thanks WuTang).

The TAB valve works the same way, it either directs the air pumped from the smog pump onward to
the TAD valve (we'll get there) or out to nowhere (not used). When the TAB valve directs the air
onto the TAD valve, the TAD valve either directs the air from the smog pump down into the catalytic
converter, or into the back of the engine. Here's a pic:



You can see the coil, the TAD, TAB, and EVR solenoids (EVR controls the EGR). You can see
the yellow line coming from the TAD solenoid, the pink line coming from the TAB solenoid, and the line
coming from the EVR is green; can't see it, but it's there. What you can't see (but when you look
at your truck you can) are the vacuum hoses that plug into the bottom of the solenoids. This is
where the vacuum is supplied to the solenoids. On the EVR(EGR) solenoid, it goes straight to the
vacuum tree (vacuum hook-up on the intake manifold). On the EVR(EGR), the top (green)
hose goes straight to the EGR valve, and the Bottom (red) hose goes straight to the intake manifold.

The TAB\TAD valves are a little different, but not much. The only difference is that the red line
(yes, the exact same one that goes to the bottom of the EVR\EGR solenoid) goes all the way over
to the vacuum canister on the fender, the vacuum canister stores vacuum for these valves
(TAB, TAD). Then there is a black vacuum line coming out of the vacuum canister next to the
red line that goes all the way back over to the bottom ports of the TAD\TAB solenoids.
From the top of the TAB solenoid a pink hose is run to the valve right next to the smog pump
(I'll show a pic after this rambling paragraph). From the TAD, there's a yellow hose run to
the TAD valve behind the intake manifold.

Here's a pic of a motor that's pulled, just so you can see where the valves are and such;
but you don't have to pull the motor, lord knows I didn't.




You can see the yellow line going to the "diverter" valve (TAD). You can also see
the “bypass” valve (TAB) (you can't see the vacuum line going there, but when you
look at it on your truck you'll see it), plus the EGR and all that other stuff.

Ok, so now that we have an idea of what goes on, let's get started. To avoid confusion,
only run one hose at a time. We need to replace\rerun the red vacuum line, so take a
piece of vacuum hose and run it from the vacuum tree on the intake manifold to
the vacuum canister.

Run it around the back of the engine (I ran it on top of the passenger side valve cover,
under the upper intake plenum). Plug the hose into the vacuum canister where the red
hose plugged into. Here's an overhead pic of how I have my vacuum lines run, you can
also use this to see how to run new (rubber) lines to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor. In all my pics I tried to use the most
sophisticated graphic design program known to man (Paint) to help. I tried to keep the
coloring the same as the original colors, with the exception of the MAP sensor and FPR:



Go back to the driver side of the intake, where the solenoids are, and cut the vacuum line
you just ran so you can put a "T" on it and run a very short vacuum line to the bottom of
the EVR\EGR solenoid:



From the T you connect a short vacuum hose to the bottom of the EVR solenoid, Pic:



Then run a vacuum hose from the top of the EVR solenoid where the green line used to be
(see pic above) to your EGR valve. I ran the hose through the hole in the middle of the
intake plenum, and then ran it up to the EGR:



Now go back to the vacuum canister, and run a vacuum hose from the OTHER plug on the
canister(formerly black line) to the bottom port on the 2 solenoids for TAB\TAD. You will
need another "T" so that you can split the hose into 2 hoses, one for each solenoid.
Kind of hard to see in this pic, you can see the white tip of the T, but it'll make sense
when your doing it:



2 hoses coming from the vacuum canister (A.C. stands for After Canister):



After that, run a hose from the top port on the TAD (front of the 2 solenoids) to the diverter
valve behind the intake plenum (originally it was a yellow hose). Here's a pic, I literally
set my camera on the intake plenum, and took a picture behind it; so it's kind of close up:



Almost done!
All that's left is to run a vacuum hose from the top port of the rear-most solenoid (TAB)
to the valve that’s right by the smog pump. This was the hardest part for me, but I have
fat fingers, and truthfully it wasn't that bad; just annoying. Here's a pic, it might be easier
to plug the hose in from under the truck, but I was able to do it from the top.




Here's the solenoids with the TAD, TAB, and the A.C. (After Canister) line:


That’s it for the SMOG stuff, but if you want to completely do away with all the plastic crap,
you can run a new hose from the vacuum tree straight to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator),
as well as a vacuum hose straight from the vacuum tree to the MAP sensor.
Here's some pics of the whole set up, you can see the hoses going to the solenoids:



If you change out the FPR and the MAP hoses, then you can literally take out the plastic
crap so it doesn't clutter up your engine bay, like I did:



That's pretty much it, now you have a rubber vacuum system!

Thanks goes to WuTang for proofreading\ideas, and thanks to Miesk5 for clarification on what
years this applies to and his never-ending knowledge!

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4 Longbed, 3.55 LS 80,XXX Original Miles, GT40Ps, Roller, MAF, Custom Y-pipe, Mustang headers, 3g Alt, Big 3+ Upgrade, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Sixlitre Tune-up, Explorer Injectors, Remote mounted ICM, Insulated Intake tubing\Filter Box Mod, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 MC\Booster\Rear clyinders, Autopage Remote Start, 9007 conversion, so much more.

Last edited by fullsize; 05-28-2014 at 12:29 PM.
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post #2 of 100 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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If you want to color code the hoses, heatshrink is a good idea, but I could see it being a pain; unless you just do the ends of the hose, then go for it. I know I've seen a pack of colored electrical tape (has like 8 rolls, each a different color) at Lowes\Home Depot\Harbor Freight; one of them, they all kind of blur together lately lol. Maybe you could use that to wrap the hoses, too. Both would work great to color code it.

As far as reliability, I've had these hoses run this way since December with no issues. I was somewhat worried about the EGR tube thats under the intake plenum, so I kept an eye on that for awhile, but no problems at all. My plastic hoses were leaking and I didn't even know it; I touched the TAB line when I was changing the spark plug wire and it snapped; IIRC, might have been somethin else I was working on but I just caressed it and it broke. Sound familiar WuTang?

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4 Longbed, 3.55 LS 80,XXX Original Miles, GT40Ps, Roller, MAF, Custom Y-pipe, Mustang headers, 3g Alt, Big 3+ Upgrade, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Sixlitre Tune-up, Explorer Injectors, Remote mounted ICM, Insulated Intake tubing\Filter Box Mod, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 MC\Booster\Rear clyinders, Autopage Remote Start, 9007 conversion, so much more.
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post #3 of 100 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 10:47 AM
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I cant see what you did here any clearer pics?
Does the new hose just slide onto the TAB, TAD, EGR in/outlet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booba5185 View Post





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post #4 of 100 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yep it sure does, lemme see if I can find a pic of the solenoid online. Also lemme see if I can find a non-colored pic.

You can see the hoses on the inlet\outlet of the EVR solenoid here:


Here's a drawing\breakdown of the EVR solenoid (the TAB\TAD are basically the same):

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4 Longbed, 3.55 LS 80,XXX Original Miles, GT40Ps, Roller, MAF, Custom Y-pipe, Mustang headers, 3g Alt, Big 3+ Upgrade, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Sixlitre Tune-up, Explorer Injectors, Remote mounted ICM, Insulated Intake tubing\Filter Box Mod, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 MC\Booster\Rear clyinders, Autopage Remote Start, 9007 conversion, so much more.
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post #5 of 100 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 12:56 AM
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I made an easy to understand diagram on an excel spreadsheet if anyone needs that may help as well. anyone needs it let me know

Booba, why are you running your plug wires like that ? I am guessing 7 and 8 ? does that hlep to avoid crossfire

91 Bronco 5.0 E4OD and 4.10 gears


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post #6 of 100 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Yep I did it because my new valve covers didn't have the fingers built on and at the time my plug wires were new so they kept coiling over and sitting on each other. So, to be safe I ran it that way. Works like a charm!

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4 Longbed, 3.55 LS 80,XXX Original Miles, GT40Ps, Roller, MAF, Custom Y-pipe, Mustang headers, 3g Alt, Big 3+ Upgrade, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Sixlitre Tune-up, Explorer Injectors, Remote mounted ICM, Insulated Intake tubing\Filter Box Mod, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 MC\Booster\Rear clyinders, Autopage Remote Start, 9007 conversion, so much more.
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post #7 of 100 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 12:12 AM
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I went out this morning and spent $20.00 on the 5/32 rubber hose, before I looked under the hood, to find the rubber hose I put on there last year dried out, and was broken. I think this rubber hose at the least needs to be wrapped in wire protector to keep the heat from getting to it. Napa still carries the replacement plastic tubing, at like 3 times the price of rubber hose. The tubing also is not barbed at the ends, and only comes in 12" sections. I ultimately fixed my code 44 problem by messing around with this tubing/rubber hose combination this morning though. It saved me money I would have otherwise paid a mechanic to diagnose, so the $20.00 was less than $100.00.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcm413 View Post
I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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post #8 of 100 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 12:23 AM
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Well rubber goes bad so going with this: Kinda spendy but lasts longer then rubber................


http://blogs.mustang50magazine.com/6...ble/index.html


http://www.oomphlabs.com/product/hose-candy/
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post #9 of 100 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daves 88' View Post
I went out this morning and spent $20.00 on the 5/32 rubber hose, before I looked under the hood, to find the rubber hose I put on there last year dried out, and was broken. I think this rubber hose at the least needs to be wrapped in wire protector to keep the heat from getting to it. Napa still carries the replacement plastic tubing, at like 3 times the price of rubber hose. The tubing also is not barbed at the ends, and only comes in 12" sections.
Good idea.

There are some points that loom would make sense. I'll look mine over and see what I come up with. If nobody comes up with with something before I get a chance to loom it all up, I'll post pics of what I did.

1985 F-150 351W 2x4
1992 Eddy Bauer 351W EFI 4x4

The system didn't fail...the jury failed the system!
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post #10 of 100 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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That's why I ran it up by the valve covers, its away from the exhaust and such. 2500 miles with no problems so far.

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4 Longbed, 3.55 LS 80,XXX Original Miles, GT40Ps, Roller, MAF, Custom Y-pipe, Mustang headers, 3g Alt, Big 3+ Upgrade, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Sixlitre Tune-up, Explorer Injectors, Remote mounted ICM, Insulated Intake tubing\Filter Box Mod, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 MC\Booster\Rear clyinders, Autopage Remote Start, 9007 conversion, so much more.
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post #11 of 100 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 02:30 AM
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Oh, I see. You still might benefit from some wire protector going to the canister on the wheel well, and also the check valve behind the motor. My tab, and tad sensors, and coil, are the reverse of what you have. My sensors hang over the valve cover, kind of above the exhaust manifold, and my coil sits near the fuel rail. So I may have more of an issue with mine. Good write up though.

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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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post #12 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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These diagrams and pictures are all if the same stock setup, yellow goes to the diverter valve(behind the intake), pink goes to the bypass valve(behind the smog pump).

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4 Longbed, 3.55 LS 80,XXX Original Miles, GT40Ps, Roller, MAF, Custom Y-pipe, Mustang headers, 3g Alt, Big 3+ Upgrade, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Sixlitre Tune-up, Explorer Injectors, Remote mounted ICM, Insulated Intake tubing\Filter Box Mod, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 MC\Booster\Rear clyinders, Autopage Remote Start, 9007 conversion, so much more.
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post #13 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 01:17 AM
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Thanks Booba5185! You motivated me to replace my old plastic vacuum lines with new Silicone lines and eliminate those pesky vacuum leaks! Your thread made it easy.

Replaced the Emmisions Solenoid lines...



Through the Edelbrock Intake Manifold...



Protected with Wire Loom...



Out the passenger side...



Plus a new Air Tube Adapter...



Found a vacuum leak!!!



See the pin hole at the top?



Patched it with Blue RTV and a plastic patch...



Then swapped it with the good Cruise Control VRESER for good measure...



I found the Cruise Control diaphram was leaking as well and temporarily capped it...



All is good now. Thanks again Booba!!!
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post #14 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 09:50 PM
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IAC (Idle Air Controller). Many threads on removing, cleaning and replacing this.





Also, get a hand held vacuum pump to isolate and test your lines, acuators and vacuum reservoirs.





And, check and replace your PCV valve. I recommend a Motorcraft EV-68.

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post #15 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 10:19 PM
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One more thing...


I cracked a vacuum tee and did not realize it. This would have made a good vacuum leak had I not removed the lines several times for vacuum testing. It finally broke in half, hence the one odd dark colored tee from my spare parts bin.


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post #16 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 11:46 PM
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www.siliconeintakes.com


Get the Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Engine Dress Up Kit and then an additional 10' of 4mm vacuum hose in the color of your choice. I used wire loom to protect the hose through the Intake Manifold, to the Diverter Valve and where it rubs on the Intake to the EVP.
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post #17 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 12:52 AM
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I ended up finding 4mm silicone hose on eBay right after I posted that. I ordered 13 feet for 11 bucks which includes shipping.. i got blue so I can match you hahah. I also have wire loom already so I'm good to go... this is a cool idea. My plastic vacuum lines are royally fawked. Three are snapped completly in half


I'm actually second guessing the ebay stuff now that I read the silicone intake site. Think ill be ok with the thin stuff? It's 0.100 wall thickness

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post #18 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tkaba37 View Post
I ended up finding 4mm silicone hose on eBay right after I posted that. I ordered 13 feet for 11 bucks which includes shipping.. i got blue so I can match you hahah. I also have wire loom already so I'm good to go... this is a cool idea. My plastic vacuum lines are royally fawked. Three are snapped completly in half


I'm actually second guessing the ebay stuff now that I read the silicone intake site. Think ill be ok with the thin stuff? It's 0.100 wall thickness
I tend to use quality components direct from manufacturers and avoid the unknowns of eBay. The thing with Silicone Lines is they tend to be soft and at the mercy of sharp objects but additional thickness of SiliconeIntakes.com vacuum lines provide resistance to cuts and vacuum collapse. Please let me know how your vacuum lines work out and any measures undertaken to protect them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Bandit View Post
Ok, I will check the IAC and PCV valve. But, the vacuum lines don't hook into either of those parts. Let me recap: Bronco wasn't running great with some broken vacuum lines but no idle fluctuation and it wouldn't die when you turned on the A/C. I replaced all the vacuum lines and now it dies when I turn on the A/C and at idle it revs up and down. Could this be a problem with an emission part or solenoid that had a broken line previously and now it is causing problems because it is hooked up?
I found a vacuum leak in my VRESER (Vacuum Reservoir) and in the Cruise Control Diaphram. Check vacuum in these along with your Emissions Solenoids (TAB, TAD, EVR) and EVP & EGR. The use of a hand vacuum pump can isolate leaks and aid in testing components.

FYI, there are two (2) VRESER in non-electronic/vacuum controlled Cruise Control Broncos, such as my 1990. One on the passenger side is for Emmissions Solenoids and TAB/TAD Valve vacuum and one under the Coolant Overflow is for Cruise Control vacuum. Look in either wheel well for two retaining nuts. Remove them and the VRESER (Coffee Can) will simply pull out of the top. Examine them very closely and test with a hand held vacuum pump. These will frequently rust underneith or have pinhole leaks especially in older Broncos.

After isolating my vacuum leaks, I changed my spark plugs and replaced the EVR yesterday. Currently no codes, 19 inHG at idle and 11 inHG at throttle. Today I drove 100 miles at 12.5 mpg. A big change from the usual 9.5 mpg...

My Engine sounds a whole lot smoother, a noticeable pause on initial acceleration is gone and it is definitely more peppy and "wants" to run. The old spark plugs read very good considering I have ran them in the new engine for the past year with a recently corrected TFI ICM issue. Funny, because I thought fixing a lean condition would be just the opposite...

Anyway, definitely check the IAC and PCV. Also, get a hand held vacuum tester and isolate/check different areas of your vacuum system. It's easy, it's fun and it's invaluable information...


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post #19 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 12:23 PM
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Ron (seattleFSB), for those of us too lazy to go outside and remove and measure... what size/type of hose did you use for the intake tube? Hump/straight/reducer?

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post #20 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigTXbronco View Post
Ron (seattleFSB), for those of us too lazy to go outside and remove and measure... what size/type of hose did you use for the intake tube? Hump/straight/reducer?
I will post this in another Technical Write Up as I do not want to monopolize Booba5185's excellent thread, (like I may have already done). Sorry Booba...

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