Bigger Tie Rods + Tie Rod Flip - Page 3 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #41 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rebrown2 View Post
On the previous post it was confirmed that it would work on early 80s Bronco, but if i don't plan to lift it nor flip it, do i still have to ream it to just install them in their normal configuration?

i just bought a 81 for my son to drive to school when he turns 16 in December, so i have a couple months for a major tune up, replace all suspension, steering, new exhaust, etc,etc,. I plan on replacing all tie rods, gearbox, pump, but if i can go in with a littler better/heavier parts i don't mind spending the little extra.

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yes it will still work. no you dont need to ream or flip it. the ream/flip and the bigger tierods are seperate mods that i combined into 1 writeup because i did them at the same time.
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post #42 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 10:15 PM
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Thanks.
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post #43 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-21-2015, 01:06 AM
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Anybody have a reamer they will rent or lend out? Hoping to do the flip to eliminate my bumpsteer.
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post #44 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-21-2015, 09:05 AM
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I am buying a reamer this week to do the flip. If anyone needs to borrow it in the future let me know. https://www.facebook.com/groups/DBOR4x4/


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post #45 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-21-2015, 06:23 PM
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Don't have a Facebook but I'll kick you some money when you're done with it to barrow it for a weekend. I promise to use cutting oil lol
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post #46 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingfish999 View Post
These parts are from numerous types of vehicles to get the most strengths possible. Some parts are from different years, different models, different drivetrains and even different editions.
Are there too many mixed parts, or would the steering system from an f250 or f350 donor work? Im doing the tie rod flip right now and there's a pretty clean 90 f350 supercab at the Junkyard..thought I might upgrade.
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post #47 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RicoBronco View Post
Are there too many mixed parts, or would the steering system from an f250 or f350 donor work? Im doing the tie rod flip right now and there's a pretty clean 90 f350 supercab at the Junkyard..thought I might upgrade.
IIRC, the short driver side tie rod is the same as stock for bronco and f250. the longer driver side is indeed stronger however. im not sure about f350 with the solid axles
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post #48 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kingfish999 View Post
IIRC, the short driver side tie rod is the same as stock for bronco and f250. the longer driver side is indeed stronger however. im not sure about f350 with the solid axles
It's not an f350...it's an f250..my mistake. I think I'll get the entire setup..looks practically brand new, and it's only $27. Thanks for the write-up.
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post #49 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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jsut because its something i should have done i added a small application chart on the second post of what vehicles were offered each part. they do not display what GVW came with them however. clicking on each link will display MOOGs page for each part with a more complete application chart. but that would take forever getting each of those parts from the correct vehicle. good luck
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post #50 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 01:53 AM
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Okay, figure I would post my question here (there are 2 other threads that I read up on) regarding the TRE flip.

I have a 4-inch Rancho lift with the drop pitman arm and the old school straight extended radius arms.

I intend to the the TRE flip and there were 3 different sleeves I just saw. The one is from Bronco Graveyard (JBG), the other is the Ruff Stuff specialties (but I think it is for GM, unless someone can confirm the GM and Ford tie rod are same angle?) and the last one was from Poly Performance and I don't think they make the one for a Ford I think I only saw it for a Jeep.

I have no problem buying my own reamer, but I wouldn't mind the other sleeves instead where I don't have to worry about angles just punch a hole and hammer a sleeve until it bottoms on the shoulder. Are the other two sleeves even an option or is the one from JBG really the only one left available and proven?

1996 Bronco XL, 5.8L w/ K&N filter, shorty headers, larger exhaust, E4OD, 3.55 gears, 8.8 (Ford's wannabe GM rear axle), Dana 44, 31x10.5R15....so mostly stock.
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post #51 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 01:21 AM
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Bump and subscribed .

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post #52 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfish999 View Post
Im sure quite a few of us had problems with bending tierods. Ive bent mine on my truck when i still had only 2" of lift, but now that i have a 6" lift i figuered it was time to do a tie rod end flip. Quite a few of us have done the TRE flip already but still use stock everythnig else. I found a thread awhile ago about upgrading to bigger tie rods and nobody seems to be aware of. So i thought i would do a write up on me doing mine.

Here are the tierod parts i used (by Moog part number):

Long Inner Tie Rod (Passenger Side): DS1073
Short Inner Tie Rod (Driver Side): DS1072
Right Tie Rod End (Passenger Side): ES2396R
Left Tie Rod End (Driver Side): ES3203L
Right Adjsuting Sleeve (Passenger Side): ES2012S
Left Adjsuting Sleeve (Driver Side): ES2079S


it is a bit of an expensive upgrade. Probably best for when your exsiting is worn or bad. The joint studs are all the same size as stock. This can make it possible to do one side before the other if for some reason it was needed. This is a great upgrade weither you do the TRE Flip or not.
Do you know if Bronco Grave Yard's TR&Es are Moog parts or some other brand?


I'm having second thoughts on the 4" drop pitman arm I just bought.

BGY has a complete TR set up for $140.


Edit:
Also; Are the TR&Es parts for an F-250/350 rather than a FSB?

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Last edited by CDA 455; 05-11-2017 at 01:31 AM.
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post #53 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CDA 455 View Post
Do you know if Bronco Grave Yard's TR&Es are Moog parts or some other brand?


I'm having second thoughts on the 4" drop pitman arm I just bought.

BGY has a complete TR set up for $140.


Edit:
Also; Are the TR&Es parts for an F-250/350 rather than a FSB?
i have no idea what brand tie rods they use. there ball joints are Ignalls i think so that may use that brand for tie rods also.

i THINK 4x4 F250 set will work. think the passenger side is stronger than stock while the driver side is same size as stock. but neither side are as strong as the set i used in the post

on my previous bronco when i originally did this thread, i did jsut the tre flip and it worked great. but on my current bronco i found i had steering issues with jsut the flip so i did a drop pitman arm also. the drop pitman arm and the tie rod flip combined made it perfect for 6" lift
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post #54 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 04:58 PM
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Well; I just took the plunge .

I bought the driver's side TRE last night and will split the cost by buying the pass. side next month.


Will also be shopping for the reamer and BGY sleeves this month as well.


BTW;
A minor reason why I'm going with the TRE flip is because I couldn't get the frickin' stock/factory pitman arm off !

That sucker is frozen/glued/welded/fused on there !

From what I remember; having a dropped pitman arm increases stress on the set up vs a non-dropped pitman arm set up. So with the flip; factory pitman arm is maintained and TREs are nice and flat, as originally designed.

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post #55 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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a dropped pitman arm will defiantly put more stress on the steering box itself. thats another advantage of the TRE flip.

ive had some pitman arms stuck before. heck ive broken 3 pullers trying to get 1 off before. ended up replacing the box with it still attached and buying a new pitman arm. some ive had come off very simple with a wack with hammer and no puller. its weird how some come off some dont.

if you do end up needing to buy a new factory pitman arm for any reason, i found that 32-spline Superduty pitman arm (Moog K80795) is MUCH beefier and was like half the price than the Moog stock replacment and is somewhat commonly available. its slightly longer and different angle tho so an alignment would be needed
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post #56 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 12:07 AM
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That's exactly what happened to me !

I broke two pullers from my puller kit .


So that Super Duty pitman arm is a factory part?

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post #57 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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ya it was on early superduty 99-01 i think. same used with the 4-bolt box swap. jsut make sure its 32 spline, there were 36 splines that was also used and eventually went to.


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post #58 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 06:23 PM
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The driver's side arrived today.


Man; the replacement parts are massive compared to the original being replaced !

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post #59 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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did you order the F250 kit from JBG? or the parts from the thread? the F250 passenger side is much bigger than stock. the parts in the thread are bigger yet
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post #60 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingfish999 View Post
idd you orde rthe F250 kit from JBG? or the parts from the thread? the F250 passenger side is much bigger than stock. the parts in hte thread are bigger yet
Oh; good query.


I used your Moog numbers from the OP and ordered them on eBay. They're all listed for F-250/350s and E-350s .

The driver's side cost me $97.

The pass. side will run about $135. I'll order these after the first of the month.


I'm about to head out to Home Depot and pick up the reamer .

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