GEARS GEARS GEARS, Please read before posting gear questions - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 330 (permalink) Old 01-16-2007, 02:20 PM
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just the front okay great thanks--
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post #62 of 330 (permalink) Old 01-17-2007, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueBronco View Post
Why?
My brain stepped out for a moment. For some reason I thought he was going to use a luckbox locker.

I'm an idiot.

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post #63 of 330 (permalink) Old 01-26-2007, 06:26 AM
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O.K.
let me throw this out there because it hasn't been asked it and that is probably because I am the only idiot to think it.

Right now I am running stock gears (I think) with my 33's. I am getting around 7-9 MPG. I actually get worse milage on the highway. The question is, according to this chart I am getting worse fuel milage and power because I am 15% over. If I change to 4.10 gears, I am even and will be getting stock gas milage. If I put 4.56's in with the 33's I will be 11% under. Will I get better than stock gas milage?

I dunno.
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post #64 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-07-2007, 09:54 AM
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Question So My question is,

If I put 33 inch tires on my bronco....it has a gear ratio of 3.55 ,E40D, do I need to regear. Also on my diff, it says 3L55 does that mean I have a locker? I replaced my diff to a str8 355 because the one that said 3L55 broke on me! And also, when I do a 2 Inch lift, what besides the lift components is required for the whole setup to be a sucess? And If I need to regear, or convert my diff to a locker, does anyone know a website where I can purchae locker components so I can rebuild my whole diff?
Let me know and preferably email me...
sohaggard88@aol.com
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post #65 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-07-2007, 05:36 PM
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Hmmmmmmm........... what a lot to take in!!

Ok, so o've just put 35's on my bronc and she definatly labours like f**k now on the road, whereas before she'd show these damn rice racers a good fight.........for about a nano-second!

My points are thus;

if i re-gear to 4.56, will i get the same gas milage as surely she'll be doing a lower MPH at the same RPM in the same gear, so therefore i would have to have a higher RPM to achieve the same speed in top (which i probably wouldnt be able to achieve!)

Secondly, whats a locker and do i need one?? (i'm from the uk, sorry!!)

Thirdly, where do i get these gears from cos everywhere i'm checking seems to ask for my vehicle year then tell me i can only order stock!!

Forthly, i've searched this site and cant find how to do it, now thats not such a big problem if you live in the US but over here in the UK, not everyone swaps axles on their mini's you know!

Fithly, do i need any extra parts for my axles or wil it all come in a kit and thats that?

And finally, i am planning on boosting my engines BHP (finances permitting!) so what happens to my top speed etc then? is it going to be constrained by the gearing and should i re-gear down again to benefit both acceleration and top speed?
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post #66 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-07-2007, 07:15 PM
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try completeoffroad.com

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post #67 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 10:19 PM
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I wish that people still read this - we will see I guess. I was reading the initial post and also I checked a few of the calculators out. There is one large flaw that I see. It seems everyone is using their nominal tire height to base these numbers. That is not the actual height of the tire, thus the circumference is not accurate. The number that needs to be used is tire revs per mile, which can be calculated from rollout. Using the numbers from the first post, a stock tire turns 698 times per mile, when tire specs for a 235-75-15 usually hover more around 715. Also, 35 in the first post turned 576 times per mile, while manufacturer specs are normally right at 600. If you notice, the error in those two numbers goes in the opposite direction. By the way, to deduce numbers from the first post numbers I multiplied inches traveled x gear ratio / 12 (to get into feet) and then divided 5280 by that number.
Now if you use rollout/rev per mile the numbers come out quite different.

3.55s and 235s = 24.96 inches per turn of the driveshaft.

4.10 and "35"s = 25.75 inches per turn of the driveshaft

so while yes, this does mean that 4.10s and 35s achieve slightly more ovedrive than stock, it is VERY slight. Changing the overdrive from .71 to .70 would make more difference (25.24) A "normal" 35 inch tire with 4.10s is the closest you can get to stock. This does not take into account additional rotational mass or additional air resistance. I suppose if you wanted to gear lower than stock (similar to going to 3.73s with stock tires) you would want 4.56s (or don't forget the 4.27 ratio). Also, if you call 31s stock, then 4.10s and 35s would leave you geared slightly deeper than you were.

So in my case, with a 35 and 4.10s, at 60 mph, I would be turning right at 1750 rpms.
(1750 turns of the motor will turn my dshaft 2460 times (.71 OD in e40d) which with 4.10 gears will turn my wheels 600 times (2460/4.10) and 600 turns of my 35 = one mile.)

All this stems from the belief that many on this site seem to have that 4.56 and 35s = stock. I am very aware that it is not a bad combo that gives good power and might even affect mpg around town, but it is not stock. I am happy power wise with my truck with 35s and stock gears, so the boost from 4.10s = bonus. On the highway, you will be hard pressed to convince me that 4.56 will get better fuel mileage than 4.10 (with 35s) The engine (my engine in my truck anyways) has adequate power, so 4.56s would just turn higher rpms, which ask any over the road trucker = lower mpgs. Also at 70 and 75 with my setup you would be looking at just over 2000 and just under 2200 rpms, respectively. Sorry for the long windedness, I just hate seeing inaccurate info being regurgitated as the gospel truth.
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post #68 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth View Post
. . . I suppose if you wanted to gear lower than stock (similar to going to 3.73s with stock tires) you would want 4.56s (or don't forget the 4.27 ratio). Also, if you call 31s stock, then 4.10s and 35s would leave you geared slightly deeper than you were. . . .
The problem is that there are no reverse cut gear sets available for the D44. It would be possible for the TTB D44 guys to us a D50 center section but not likely worth the trouble unless they happened to have one laying around.

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post #69 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 06:50 PM
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can you go wrong with high gear ration even if your tires arent that big. im going for 35" tires and i saw 4:88 are as much as 4:56 so would it be fine just to get the 4:88 and if so would it help my gas any should i stick with 4:56

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post #70 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-18-2007, 11:12 PM
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I'm not one for asking dumb questions, but goddammit, I just can't find a definite answer.

The gear ratio for the front will be different than the rear axle correct? If I want to run 4.11's in the rear, I get 4.09's for the front diff right? I thought I could look on my own axle, but the tag for the front ain't there. My rear axle is 3.55 stock, so that should mean that my front is around 3.53?

I also read in here that to run 4.09's in the front diff, I'll need a new carrier? Why?
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post #71 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-19-2007, 12:24 AM
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your front is probably 3.54. Dana axles have carrier breaks. That's just the way the way Dana designed them. The break for the D44 is 3.92 and numerically higher. There is no reverse cut in 3.92 though so 4.1 is the next available ratio in reverse cut for the D44.

Sometimes the front and rear are exactly the same, 3.73/3.73 and 3.50/3.50 are some examples with the latter being a 9" and D44.

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post #72 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-19-2007, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBronco View Post
your front is probably 3.54. Dana axles have carrier breaks. That's just the way the way Dana designed them. The break for the D44 is 3.92 and numerically higher. There is no reverse cut in 3.92 though so 4.1 is the next available ratio in reverse cut for the D44.

Sometimes the front and rear are exactly the same, 3.73/3.73 and 3.50/3.50 are some examples with the latter being a 9" and D44.
Wow...I'm totally lost. WHat is a carrier break?
Are you saying that to run gears numerically higher than 3.92, I need to get a 4.10 carrier? We're not talking about the housing right?
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post #73 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-19-2007, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairlane_68 View Post
Wow...I'm totally lost. WHat is a carrier break?
Are you saying that to run gears numerically higher than 3.92, I need to get a 4.10 carrier? We're not talking about the housing right?
No its not the housing but the carrier. You need one for the 4.10 (or 4.11).

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post #74 of 330 (permalink) Old 02-19-2007, 10:53 AM
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Ok...gotcha. I went to Bronco graveyard and I see what you meant. Thanks!
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post #75 of 330 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 01:06 AM
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I'm running a 460 (450 hp modified) with a C6 trans I just purchased Dana 60's with 4.10 gears. Tire size I want is 40" . But with this combo and lockers if I put the truck up against a 2 foot high ledge is it going to power out or climb right up? Going up to 4.88's makes everything more expensive lockers are more ...Anyone running this combo?
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post #76 of 330 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 11:41 AM
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With 450 horses, and I am guessing that the torque is close to that, you should be okay. But if it were me I would do the 4.88's now if the locker is going to be different. I am not sure about this so others may be can correct me if I am wrong.

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post #77 of 330 (permalink) Old 03-27-2007, 04:09 PM
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help me out a bit

i have an 86 bronco with a 302, AOD and a BW1356(or what not) tcase...
i will be running 35's for a while would 4.56 get better mileage than the stock 3.55s. i am not really worried abot off road yet till i do my 1 ton swap
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post #78 of 330 (permalink) Old 03-27-2007, 04:51 PM
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in town maybe - on the highway prob not - depends on how fast you drive.
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post #79 of 330 (permalink) Old 03-27-2007, 07:28 PM
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didn't really help out my mileage

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post #80 of 330 (permalink) Old 03-28-2007, 04:54 PM
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thanks, would 4.88s be better then?? or 410

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