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Pulling EEC-IV codes

96K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  miesk5 
#1 ·
BEFORE POSTING IN ANY TECH WRITEUP THREAD, read this post. :deal

Read this caption:
 
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#5 ·
Ok, how do I know if I need to do any of the things listed in the special notes section? (other than the e4od, I know I have that) Just trying to figure out how to do the tests so I dont have to keep asking questions. Thanks


Special Notes:

· On vehicles equipped with the Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID code.

· On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released.

· On vehicles equipped with E4OD transmission, the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) must be cycled after the ID code.

· The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse (or a 10 code on the STAR Tester) that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine running identification code. (See Code Output Format in this section.)

· When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief wide open throttle.
 
#6 ·
this thread is useless without pics!!!! :twak


Just kidding Steve, just had to say it :toothless Thanks for the info :beer
 
#8 ·
I was looking around for learning how to pull codes on my bronco and I know this is the best thread for doing this. It probably makes perfect sense to most people but if you ate a lot of paintchips as a child AND fell on your head several times then maybe this website will help out too: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

And if I'm not mistaken there are 3 different ways of doing this:
1. sit in your truck and count check engine lights after you set proper jumpers
2. use a digital volt meter, analog volt meter or simply a test light, or
3. use one of 'em fancy shmancy code readers out there randing from $10-$50, for example: Equus Digital Code Reader
 
#10 ·
So I ran a KOEO and a KOER with a Snap on engine diagnostic machine it came up with a 111 on the KOEO and a 116 on the KOER. So after reading above that means I have a faulty Coolant temperature Sensor ($18). My temp has been reading fine though so that is a litle confusing. Also it states that my timing was set at 20 degrees!!?! Could my chain have streched that much to through my timing off to 20 degrees? I guess that might be my loss of power, loss of fuel mileage, and the pinging as well.

What adverse things can happen to my engine if anything at all if I cant get it in to get the timing set back down to at least 13degrees? And should I woory about the coolant temp sensor at all? Engine doesnt seem to be overheating and the CEL is not on.
 
#11 ·
So after reading above that means I have a faulty...
:smilie_slap:smilie_slap:smilie_slap:smilie_slap :smilie_slap:smilie_slap:smilie_slap:smilie_slap

No, a code NEVER means that any part is defective. :twak Not even a part that is specifically mentioned in the code definition. Codes ONLY tell you on which circuit to BEGIN your diagnosis.

The rest of your post is NOT related to pulling codes, which is the only subject of this thread. Keep questions in the appropriate forum. :deal
 
#12 ·
I had to read three different sets of instructions before pulling codes made sense to me, and I then wrote this set.
Hopefully you'll find my writing style easy to understand.

Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.
Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.
The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.

Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.
Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.
Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.
SO here you go...
How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

HowTo Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more



Two and three digit OBD1 code meanings
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=14
 
#13 ·
yo JOE
Hey Bro!

Good to see you post that here; but Del Ryan's LINK bec he had to del his ****fueling.com site per "Copy Right"" stuff.

I have other on-line sources for DTCs 2 & 3 digits & some Possible Causes, MANY CODES!
@ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=118
 
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