Ultimate Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Thread - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-04-2007, 10:09 PM
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Set the DVOM to read VDC. Attach the leads to it properly (I'm not even going to explain this one). Ground the black lead to a very good, steady, SOLID connection; alligator clips would be excellent for this. Push a metal clothespin through the green lead (I think I should know this, I just did it! lol ), then measure the voltage off of that. The trick is to make sure that the pin is conductive and making excellent contact with both the conductor and the probe. You should be able to dial in your TPS voltage. I usually suggest folks to set it to ~0.94V with the key on and engine off. This is a safe distance from 1.0V, and will allow for meter error, connection imperfections, voltage fluctuations, etc.

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post #22 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-05-2007, 01:20 PM
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sigEpBlue:
I've read this thread and studied this thing so many times I have the concept down but poking around wasn't producing anything.
On my DVOM, V-DC there are 5 settings from top to bottom they range from 1000, 200, 20, 2000m,200m and the instructions say start with the highest setting and work down until you get results. I have the plug in probes so I'll work on this today until I get it right. It's begining to make more sense but I've never liked the electrical diagnosis part, sorry for being retarded ~ lol lol

Thanks Brother ~
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post #23 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-05-2007, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKossarides View Post
sigEpBlue:
I've read this thread and studied this thing so many times I have the concept down but poking around wasn't producing anything.
On my DVOM, V-DC there are 5 settings from top to bottom they range from 1000, 200, 20, 2000m,200m and the instructions say start with the highest setting and work down until you get results. I have the plug in probes so I'll work on this today until I get it right. It's begining to make more sense but I've never liked the electrical diagnosis part, sorry for being retarded ~ lol lol

Thanks Brother ~
Hey Koss - I tried looking back to find out what setting I used...I think I have close to the same meter as you also! If my old man memory serves me correct it was the V-DC setting 20. Good luck brother!

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post #24 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-05-2007, 06:21 PM
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Practicing today on my benched TB with the multimeter, probing the TPS connector but still not getting any readings and I've switched to every setting in V-DC, DVOM is brand new. The TPS was on there when it came from "scrappy86" so no matter what it should show some kind of a reading good or bad, no?
I've cleaned the TB carefully and thoroughly using TB cleaner only and lubing springs and linkage so everything operates fine. I even managed to scribe it and get the TPS sensor screws loosened without moving it with a tiny bit of PB Buster and a large phillips.

Using the probes (red/black) either insdie the connector or grounding the black one I'm not getting a reaction ~

What am I missing here?

Thanks ~
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post #25 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKossarides View Post
Practicing today on my benched TB with the multimeter, probing the TPS connector but still not getting any readings and I've switched to every setting in V-DC, DVOM is brand new. The TPS was on there when it came from "scrappy86" so no matter what it should show some kind of a reading good or bad, no?
I've cleaned the TB carefully and thoroughly using TB cleaner only and lubing springs and linkage so everything operates fine. I even managed to scribe it and get the TPS sensor screws loosened without moving it with a tiny bit of PB Buster and a large phillips.

Using the probes (red/black) either insdie the connector or grounding the black one I'm not getting a reaction ~

What am I missing here?

Thanks ~
Are you saying that this thing (TB) is not hooked up to any power source? No completed elctrical path from the perspective of the TB and electrical system? I think that maybe your problem. If this thing is just sitting on the bench...no input, then there would be no path to measure closed to WOT.

Somone please correct me if I'm wrong and Koss let me know if this is/or is not the case. You may want to test it on the TB that is in your truck.

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post #26 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 01:58 PM
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If I disconnect the TPS on the truck the sensor wouldn't have any power to it only the harness side would if the key was turned on. The multimeter is battery operated for power source if the probes are inserted into the connector, I understand you can test for continuity when everything is connected but the only way you can adjust the TPS for the voltage setting is to take it off the truck, losen the 2 screws and turn that little dial in the center of the sensor that's attached to the blade. If the TB is on the bench with the TPS sensor attached I still should be able to probe the TPS sensor connector with the multimeter to see where it's at, no?
Otherwise, once you take the TB off the truck how would you know how to adjust the angle of the blade for proper V. setting?


I also have a question about one of your threads in the very begining but I'll have to copy the dialog and post it next, sorry!

Thanks ~
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post #27 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 02:07 PM
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Xris:

This dialog is in the begining between the 14 & 15th picture regarding the actual replacement with a new sensor, after scribing.

"Engage the tanges of the sensor with the throttle shaft blade, then rotate it clockwise to align the reference marks before installing the screws."

I don't quite understand this part completely ~


Thanks, sorry for being so dense on this ~
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post #28 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 03:01 PM
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A quote from my Chilton's manual:

"The TP Sensor has two versions, an adjustable and a non-adjustable; the difference being elongated mounting holes that allow the rotory sensor to be turned slightly to adjust the output voltage. The rotary TP sensor with round mounting holes are not adjustable".


JKossarides, it goes on to say:

"On 5.0L and 5.8L engines, position the TP sensor so that the pigtail points toward the IAC valve".

"Slide the rotary tangs into position over the shaft blade, then rotate the TP sensor CLOCKWISE only to the installed position. Failure to follow this step may result in high idle speeds for 5.0L and 5.8L engines".

I hope this helps.
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post #29 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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A quote from my Chilton's manual:

"The TP Sensor has two versions, an adjustable and a non-adjustable; the difference being elongated mounting holes that allow the rotory sensor to be turned slightly to adjust the output voltage. The rotary TP sensor with round mounting holes are not adjustable".


JKossarides, it goes on to say:

"On 5.0L and 5.8L engines, position the TP sensor so that the pigtail points toward the IAC valve".

"Slide the rotary tangs into position over the shaft blade, then rotate the TP sensor CLOCKWISE only to the installed position. Failure to follow this step may result in high idle speeds for 5.0L and 5.8L engines".

I hope this helps.
Yep! My haynes was not specific in regard to the variability in TPS. I found out by installing the new one and reading other posts that mine was not adjustable afterward. The instruciton given in my thread is for the adjustable TPS.

Thanks Seattle FSB for clarifying.

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post #30 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 07:36 PM
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So on an 86 the TPS sensor with the round hole is not adjustable?
But you should scribe the old one before you take it off, right?

Thanks ~
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post #31 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-06-2007, 10:25 PM
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I think scribing is to accurately reposition the adjustable TPS. But scribing may be a safe bet as, depending on condition and view, you might not know what type you have until you loosen the mounting screws.

To clarify (just in case), the adjustable "elongated mounting holes" are located laterally where the screws mount the TPS sensor, not the center rotary tangs that go over the Throttle Body shaft blade.
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post #32 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 07:20 AM
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It's 4 am and I woke up thinking about this ~
So when replacing a TP sensor you take put it over the end of the TB shaft blade and turning it clockwise line it up with the scribe mark then screw it tight in position. Doesn't sound like much of a turn though?
Sounds like winding a clock a bit, I must have missed that in the Haynes so I'll go back and check that.
When I changed sensors the last time I did not do this with the sensor which may in part be the reason when I slow down and speed up in traffic around 15-20 mph range it doesn't respond smoothly unless you slow down enough to automaticaly downshift or hit passing gear, it stumbles and the dissy rattles. PITA
Back to the drawing board on this and on to voltage setting!

Thanks ~
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post #33 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 10:57 AM
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You shouldn't be able to turn it more than about 5 degrees CW or CCW if you have the regular round-holed version. Don't worry, as you SHOULD be able to dial it in, even with that little adjustability.

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post #34 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 12:37 PM
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Yes I have the round hole style, I'll deal with that when I come back from Smogoramaville today, tomorrow's my last day for registration & smog and Sats. are usually busy ~
CW or CCW?

Thanks Brother ~
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post #35 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I have the round hole style, I'll deal with that when I come back from Smogoramaville today, tomorrow's my last day for registration & smog and Sats. are usually busy ~
CW or CCW?

Thanks Brother ~
CW= ClockWise
CCW= Counter Clock Wise

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post #36 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 07:30 PM
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Xris: DUHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH ~ Thanks


sigEpBlue:
I'll probably go ahead and put in the new TB I got and play with the adjustment until I get it. So what are we really saying about the round hole TPS, no real adjustment other then a slight turn CW or CCW? OK ~

Thanks Brothers ~





I'm editing the smog stuff I put here because it belongs in another thread.
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post #37 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-17-2007, 09:18 AM
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Well I managed to swap in the TB I got from scrappy86 and a new thermostat today, that bottom bolt on the thermostat is a BIATCH to get at but I got it done. It was NASTY in there so I gave it a thorough cleaning and put everything on the wire wheel for cleaning and it came out nice.

It fired right up!
I learned that with the TPS with the round hole all you have to do is scribe it and then place the new TPS, turning your hand a bit left then place it over the TB shaft blade and turn it CW to the scribe mark then screw it down tight. The ring inside has little prongs or tanges which move so by doing it this way you insure they will engage with the end of the shaft. I guess I misunderstood thinking there was some sort of adjustment to set the voltage using the mulitmeter at that stage. The only other adjustment is to warm up the engine, shut it off and disconnect the TPS then start the engine and adjust the throttle stop screw with the tach at a desireable idle then reconnect.
So far so good on the test drive and I'll drive it for a few days and then see where I'm at, check codes and go from there to see what else I need to do for Smogoramaville.
It ran great today so maybe I'm getting closer with the "LEARNING" curve, so on to the pins and probing, I feel impowered ~ lol lol

Thanks for all the help guys!
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post #38 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-17-2007, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKossarides View Post
Well I managed to swap in the TB I got from scrappy86 and a new thermostat today, that bottom bolt on the thermostat is a BIATCH to get at but I got it done. It was NASTY in there so I gave it a thorough cleaning and put everything on the wire wheel for cleaning and it came out nice.

It fired right up!
I learned that with the TPS with the round hole all you have to do is scribe it and then place the new TPS, turning your hand a bit left then place it over the TB shaft blade and turn it CW to the scribe mark then screw it down tight. The ring inside has little prongs or tanges which move so by doing it this way you insure they will engage with the end of the shaft. I guess I misunderstood thinking there was some sort of adjustment to set the voltage using the mulitmeter at that stage. The only other adjustment is to warm up the engine, shut it off and disconnect the TPS then start the engine and adjust the throttle stop screw with the tach at a desireable idle then reconnect.
So far so good on the test drive and I'll drive it for a few days and then see where I'm at, check codes and go from there to see what else I need to do for Smogoramaville.
It ran great today so maybe I'm getting closer with the "LEARNING" curve, so on to the pins and probing, I feel impowered ~ lol lol

Thanks for all the help guys!
That's what we like to hear!

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post #39 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 04:14 PM
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After I plowed a path through cattails, I started picking out reeds and cattails and noticed the vacuum line(green) from the TPS was cracked. I really couldt tell you when it happened, but I taped it up. But I have noticed a week or so later when I am in 3rd gear going up a steep incline on the highway, its really cutting out and can only make it go about 50. Also when i go to school everyday I go up a steep hill but doesnt really cut, but in 3rd gear(AOD AUTO) I am getting like a clicking noise as if something is trying to switch over or something. I can't pinpoint where its comming from, but I would like to think it is comming from the TPS. I am thinking the clicking noise is trying to upshift the tranny?? Becuase the Throttle Valve cable is right there too. I haven't checked the volts, but does this sound like the TPS is acting up?? I dont have an RPM gauge, but it does cut out in 3rd and 4th on highway, but not as bad when going up that hill on the highway.

-Josh
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post #40 of 186 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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After I plowed a path through cattails, I started picking out reeds and cattails and noticed the vacuum line(green) from the TPS was cracked. I really couldt tell you when it happened, but I taped it up. But I have noticed a week or so later when I am in 3rd gear going up a steep incline on the highway, its really cutting out and can only make it go about 50. Also when i go to school everyday I go up a steep hill but doesnt really cut, but in 3rd gear(AOD AUTO) I am getting like a clicking noise as if something is trying to switch over or something. I can't pinpoint where its comming from, but I would like to think it is comming from the TPS. I am thinking the clicking noise is trying to upshift the tranny?? Becuase the Throttle Valve cable is right there too. I haven't checked the volts, but does this sound like the TPS is acting up?? I dont have an RPM gauge, but it does cut out in 3rd and 4th on highway, but not as bad when going up that hill on the highway.

-Josh
1) First check your other vacuum lines
2) I would not trust the tape to seal up the vacumm line you noted. Replace the line...should be pretty cheap.
3) Test the TPS using the process outlined. That will be a true test as to condition of the TPS. You don't want to throw money into something that could be an easy fix or something totally unrelated.

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