ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K) - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #81 of 2372 (permalink) Old 06-13-2006, 11:00 AM
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I used some stuff I got at Lowe's that is foil on both sides with air bubbles in between. Its rated to 176F or something. I've been watching to see how it handles the temps under the hood.....I wouldn't be surprized if it degrades and I'll have to find something that can handle higher temps. Just did the tubes from the grill back to the box and from box over to the intake. Didn't do the box with the filter. I don't think its anywhere near 24 linear feet of tubing to cover....maybe 5-6'. Wrapped the double tubes all as one.

Its the same stuff I plan to use to quiet my doors but its NOT self adhesive. Using double sided tape. Got it at Lowe's.

Yes.....didn't notice any jump in fuel efficiency after installing autolite plugs gapped to .55, new ford racing 9mm plub wires and msd coil until I wrapped the intake tubes. Stock intake on '94 bronco other than K&N filter. I don't recall whether or not its MAF or not.

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post #82 of 2372 (permalink) Old 06-13-2006, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorjen
I used some stuff I got at Lowe's that is foil on both sides with air bubbles in between. Its rated to 176F or something. I've been watching to see how it handles the temps under the hood.....I wouldn't be surprized if it degrades and I'll have to find something that can handle higher temps. Just did the tubes from the grill back to the box and from box over to the intake. Didn't do the box with the filter. I don't think its anywhere near 24 linear feet of tubing to cover....maybe 5-6'. Wrapped the double tubes all as one.

Its the same stuff I plan to use to quiet my doors but its NOT self adhesive. Using double sided tape. Got it at Lowe's.

Yes.....didn't notice any jump in fuel efficiency after installing autolite plugs gapped to .55, new ford racing 9mm plub wires and msd coil until I wrapped the intake tubes. Stock intake on '94 bronco other than K&N filter. I don't recall whether or not its MAF or not.

Thanks for the info

sorry to hear the ignition upgrades did nothing to help you, it usually helps most smallblock injected Fords in a big way.

This is what I used inside the doors to get rid of that tin-bang sound;



Stock style deadner avaialble in any body shop supplier. Fairly cheap too.

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post #83 of 2372 (permalink) Old 06-13-2006, 12:37 PM
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Reflectix® is a 5/16" thick, seven layer, reflective insulation
Two outer layers of aluminum foil reflect 97% of radiant heat. Each layer of foil is bonded to a tough layer of polyethylene for strength.
Two inner layers of insulating bubble pack resist conductive heat flow while a center layer of polyethylene gives Reflectix® high reliability and strength.
Reflectix® reflects the sun's rays in the hot summer months. It also retains interior heat and helps to eliminate potentially damaging ice dams during the winter months.



Six....I wouldn't say I got no benefit from the upgrades.....it just wasnt' real noticeable. I did notice more impressive response and gas mileage after also doing the insulation of the air intake tubes. It was about a week or so after the ignition upgrades. I am anxious to get around to the timing bump......

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post #84 of 2372 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 04:21 PM
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im going to order my parts to do my ignition tuneup and noticed the fms wires have a 45 degree boot and the stock ones are 135 degrees. is this going to affect how they go on and will i have any problems? also just to clarify the stock timing is 10 correct and to gap the autolites to around .055? thanks for your help

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post #85 of 2372 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggies92bronco
im going to order my parts to do my ignition tuneup and noticed the fms wires have a 45 degree boot and the stock ones are 135 degrees. is this going to affect how they go on and will i have any problems? also just to clarify the stock timing is 10 correct and to gap the autolites to around .055? thanks for your help
I found the FMS wires were a direct, easy fit on my 1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 litre.

Yes, stock timing is 10 degrees, I find optimum timing to be almost exactly 13.5 but you can play around until you notice ping and then back off 2 degrees if you want to, and/or tune by vacuum if you care to.

Cheapest Autolites money can buy, nuthin' platinum, nuthin' fancy, just set out to .055 gap.

Have you already got an aftermarket coil and mint condition cap&rotor ?

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post #86 of 2372 (permalink) Old 07-13-2006, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Spazmatic-
Well, I'm not going to make a new thread for this, but I'm just going to take this time to thank this site, especially Six for sharing this brilliantly simple mod. It took me about 5 minutes of prepping (used a gold-leafing paint pen, scribbled all over the balancer, then used a REALLY light sand paper with almost no pressure to sand off the paint that wasn't in the grooves), a minute or so for the truck to warm itself up, and about a minute or so to actually bump the distributor. I bumped it very VERY minutely and got my timing from 8 or 8 1/2 to 13-13.5. Not only was it insanely easy, it puts life into my truck. I didn't think it'd get that good, but it literally throws me back in my seat (even when I brace more than I would when driving) from a dead stop, and it shaved my 0-60 down a bit. I'm amazed at what that little bump did to my truck.

so......

THANK YOU SIX!!!

My pleasure Spazmatic !

People who haven't done it are missing out big time !!!!!!! It is now your job (should you accept) to preach the gospel, as it was handed down to me, by people here to share with other 5.0 litres.

I know of no other motor that you can do this to and still get away with the same grade 87 fuel.

With the mileage gains you get, with the improved performance, it's like having your cake and eating it too !

People look at me sideways when I say I held off a Maxima onto an expressway merge on-ramp from the dig off a light. Thanks goodness I had a witness and he swears by it too.

A bit of exhaust and ignition work and I've been amazed at what this tiny 5.0 litre motor can do in such a huge vehicle. As long as you don't tax them with heavy wheels and tires you can really get this things to move out of the hole.

Spread the word to the non-believers !

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post #87 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-02-2006, 04:28 PM
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I haven't gone through all 9 pages of this thread, so I don't know if this has been addressed.

I've seen it said that the cheap plugs are fine for this app, and that anything else is wasted, but if the idea is to get a bigger, hotter spark, what about adding splitfire plugs into the mix? you'd have the increased gap, plus a wider "flame kernel" - more of a good thing.

...or are Splitfires just a gimmik?

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post #88 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-02-2006, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iolaus
...or are Splitfires just a gimmik?

IMO, yup. Just use the cheap autolites. There's a post on about page 4 from Sixlitre about why.
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post #89 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-02-2006, 04:47 PM
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Iolaus

I ain't here to diss Splitfires, there's plenty of others who'll do that. I've never personally used them and I've read too much questionable stuff for me to fork out the cash for them.

All I know is Mustang site after truck site recommend Autolite and Motorcraft base level plugs because they work and work better than platinum or other fancy plugs.

I've used em' in almost a dozen Ford smallblock engines and they work and work well (and they're dirt cheap). It just don't get much better than that IMO.

Spend the big bucks on the best plug wires you can afford.

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post #90 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iolaus
Ok, cut the grease; I'll get it locally. As for the plugs, they were the only Autolites that came up on the Summit site for my Bronco and I was trying to consolidate my purchasing; should I just get the cheap ones at Pep Boys?

The different wires... can someone translate these two phrases into a common language?

"...provide up to 10 times less resistance than standard resistor core wire"
"...provide a stunning 300 percent increase in electrical current delivery"

You're right Iolaus

For some reason you can buy Autolites MUCH cheaper locally. We get 2 for three Canadian dollars and I KNOW 12 Canadian dollars ain't much in yo' money !

For lack of a better analogy; plug wire resistance is kinda like back pressure in an exhaust system, up to a point, the less the better.

Current delivery is "all important" when you have opend up your plug gap and you need all the power that new aftermarket coil can send. Problem with our old wires is they can't deliver as much current as they get aged.

Clear as mud ?

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post #91 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iolaus
The two phrases come from the two different pulg wires - Taylor and Accel; kinda' makes it hard to compare the two. You said buy the best plug wires I could afford, so I'm trying to decide which set is better.
Iolaus

If you have the budget feel free to purchase em', they're more than good enough.

So many people here assume that good plug wires means Pep boys best house brand, when in fact they cost more and are poorer quality than the Taylors and Ford 9mms.

A lot of us here spend so much on our broncos that we tend to try to save where we can. These broncos can consume your wallet real fast if you let em'. I like to save where I can and spend where it counts.

Sixlitre

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Personally I had bad experiences with the low-line Accel wires years ago, so they've burned their bridges with me.

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post #92 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 08:25 PM
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Hey Sewiv, i found this part
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and it seems identical to yours but it has
Quote:
"Notes: Includes 11 in., 13 in., and 22 in. coil wires."
near the bottom. Is there any difference between this set and yours?
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post #93 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-04-2006, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonzai
Hey Sewiv, i found this part
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and it seems identical to yours but it has

near the bottom. Is there any difference between this set and yours?
I don't know. I posted the lengths for each set that I tried on about the second page of this beast of a thread. You can call Taylor and give them the number, they'll tell you the lengths. Keep in mind that my engine is kind of weird, it's a MAF 5.0 in a `94 in Michigan.
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post #94 of 2372 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loarmistead
I'd love to get those, but they didn't have any for a 96 model 5.8 :(

And yes, I read every gat dang post on every gat dang page of this thread. The concensus was that Ford wires would be the best replacement (read above), and I also read where some other wires could be a PITA to switch out, that's why I was wondering if I should go with these. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D74658&FROM=MG . (the same ones on the picture in the write-up) Will I run into any problems, will they be good enough?
The only reason that they ended up being a problem was because there's something odd about my engine. I posted the actual lengths of the wires included in each kit that I tried on about the second page of the thread, you might compare to your current wires.

If I had to do it over, I'd probably go with the Ford wires, but that'd be a "just because" kind of thing. The Taylors are working fine for me now, and I got great customer service from them.

Sorry, it just seemed odd to see the "which spark plug wires" question after 9+ pages of "here's what I used" from various people.
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post #95 of 2372 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 10:15 AM
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6 litre bump on 5.8/carb w/ prev. emissions???

First and foremost, thank you six for your wisdom, patience, and great technical advice. I just did my timing chain / water pump upgrade last weekend (it was ~1.5" slack!) It went wonderfully thanks to this site and great contributors!

However, I have a friend who has a FORMERLY CA emissions 351, '82. It is now a carbed 351 with headers / pipes / aftermarket intake / but with STOCK cam. Where he lives there is no emissions regulation enforcement. I have 2 questions remaining, and "yes I have read the previous 11 pages."

1. Will I still benefit, like a 5.0 EFI would, from the 6 litre process?
2. Do I really need the ignition control module (silver box on the wheel well) now that all emisssions are gone?
3. My Haynes / emission tags state that I can not change my timing becuase it is the Emissions type III (I think that is what they called it). Is this why one removes the SPOUT?

Sorry for the ignorance.

PS: I might try to post pictures later of some great mods a smart person gave me insight on .... lincoln TC lights in lower kick panel ... rear lights in place of cigarette ash trays .. AND fixing that dreaded map light wire. Sorry, I bought new carpet kit instead of trying power washer though... ;}

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post #96 of 2372 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickaila View Post
First and foremost, thank you six for your wisdom, patience, and great technical advice. I just did my timing chain / water pump upgrade last weekend (it was ~1.5" slack!) It went wonderfully thanks to this site and great contributors!

However, I have a friend who has a FORMERLY CA emissions 351, '82. It is now a carbed 351 with headers / pipes / aftermarket intake / but with STOCK cam. Where he lives there is no emissions regulation enforcement. I have 2 questions remaining, and "yes I have read the previous 11 pages."

1. Will I still benefit, like a 5.0 EFI would, from the 6 litre process?
2. Do I really need the ignition control module (silver box on the wheel well) now that all emisssions are gone?
3. My Haynes / emission tags state that I can not change my timing becuase it is the Emissions type III (I think that is what they called it). Is this why one removes the SPOUT?

Sorry for the ignorance.

PS: I might try to post pictures later of some great mods a smart person gave me insight on .... lincoln TC lights in lower kick panel ... rear lights in place of cigarette ash trays .. AND fixing that dreaded map light wire. Sorry, I bought new carpet kit instead of trying power washer though... ;}

mj

Yes you'll benefit from all them parts, to be sure. The tuning process is slightly different. Just advance two degrees at a time until you rattle, then back off one degree and call it good. The carb idle misture adjustment comes into play too, but that's not really too difficult.

I'm guessing your friend's 351 is an M motor and not a 351 Windsor, correct ? If so all you need to really wake her up is the earlier timing chain set with the non-retarded gear set.

To pass emissions Ford retarded the M motor somewhere in the 70s by 4 degrees. they just built it into the gear set on the timing chain set. All you need to do it change to a set made for an earlier engine (search to be sure).

I'd definately keep the silver module, you'll be walkin' without it.

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post #97 of 2372 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 12:41 PM
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6, thanks. I might wait on doing the TC as I just finished it last weekend. However, in the mean time I will press on with cap / rotor/ wires / autolites at 0.55 and timing bump.
And I'll keep the box. Actually it is time to get a replacment.. they seem to start to fail about every 6 years (for me) Sooo I end up keeping an old (mostly working) one in the garage.

thanks.
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post #98 of 2372 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 12:54 PM
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testimonial

I did this a few weeks back. MSD coil, cap, and rotor, 8.8 wires and accell
plugs, gap and timing bump.
Just wanted to say thanks for the right up. Big improvement. The
engine was breaking up at around 3500-4000 RPM's. Now it'll sing past 5000
with 38" swampers and 3:54 gears in the mud in 4-lo
Sounds great too right around 3000 it starts to really wake up and sounds
great with the headers true duals and dynomax glasspacks.

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snorkle,K&N,True Duals,Hedman headers,High Flow Cats,Cherry Bombs. Still going.

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post #99 of 2372 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 06:15 PM
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ehh, it might have been answered here, but i wanna ask my question specifically. I just finished putting on some Taylor Spiro Pros and it is running really rough. I took for a 50 yard or so drive and it backfired. Could just replacing the wires(possibly factory) be the big difference maker? Will i have to change my timing just for replacing the wires? When i was installing them i put on the last wire, but it kept just sliding right off, but then i got it to stay, could this be the problem?
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post #100 of 2372 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonzai View Post
ehh, it might have been answered here, but i wanna ask my question specifically. I just finished putting on some Taylor Spiro Pros and it is running really rough. I took for a 50 yard or so drive and it backfired. Could just replacing the wires(possibly factory) be the big difference maker? Will i have to change my timing just for replacing the wires? When i was installing them i put on the last wire, but it kept just sliding right off, but then i got it to stay, could this be the problem?
Sounds likely, try pulling it back off and crimping the socket down a little, and put it back on. While you're under the hood, go back and double check all the others.

Jeff
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